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I've been trying to figure out this stupid truck for months now. Lil history if you didn't see the other posts, New Injectors,alliant uvch, replaced both connectors, checked wiring with ohm meter at 42 pin and at idm plug.
Today after waiting a week and a half my new idm came, plugged it in and ran a buzz test and it passed. My low #6 was gone. Fire it up, runs good for a second then engine light and sounds like ****. Run buzz again and #6 low circuit, p1298, p1296, p1295. I did get a 140 volt, not sure if that matters.
Contribution test ran and it passed.
What am I missing that it would pass the tests until it actually starts? And then fails them.
I ohmed out the connection for #6 again and it is right where it should be.
How have you been probing the various connectors while preforming your diagnostics? I've had a few connectors just get loose and cause problems. I'd guess 20+ years of engine vibration, Oklahoma roads, and countless heat cycles takes it's toll. Then a ham fisted knuckle dragger like me goes poking around w/ multimeter probes and opens them up even more. I couldn't say if it is your problem or not just an idea.
I've checked the ohm on the connections twice now and both were good. In the am I'm going to check it all again with a different meter. Highly doubt I get a different result but it's easy enough.
Then I'm going to swap solenoids with 6 and 4. If it still shows #6 I'm going to swap the plugs for 6 and 4 and see if changes.. Surely between swapping the solenoids and the plugs I'll get somewhere with figuring this thing out.
Still doesn't make sense to me why I can buzz test fine, then start up and get a low circuit on 6 and so forth.. I'd think if it was bad it'd be there before I start up
How long is "runs fine for a second", long enough for things to start warming up? Another thought, the injectors are controlled by the ground. The hot is always hot but the solenoids only fire when pcm provides a ground.
So I'm done till morning before I get more frustrated..
If I ohm wiring from 43 and idm, it's all fine. Having the new idm in every plug from injector to idm reads 0. Having the old idm plugged in. 2,4 reads 0. 6 reads 100, 8 reads 12.. Last few times it gave me engine light and I buzzed again it now said #3 was low, idm failure and multiple banks failure.. Went to local mechanic to pick his brain, he said idm is bad, I told him it was new and he said he still thinks it's bad. Got back and just for the hell of it, I plugged the old idm back in. Buzzed it and got #6 low circuit as always. Started it and it sounded like it was idling fine, would Rev up and no engine light. I'm gonna go back over in the morning and put everything back together with the old one and see if it's driveable with the old one.
Consider returning that new IDM for a refund, and having your used IDM checked out by Dieseltechchatt to rule it out. Wondering if that used IDM is having an issue.
How about checking circuit #6 with someone moving the harness around? See if your 3.4 ohm reading goes open or to ground. Also check continuity between #19 on the IDM connector and ground, or any other pin in that harness, when moving the harness and make sure it stays open.
Tests attached below from GB Remanufacturing might help. This darn wiring is often suspect when disturbed on these old trucks.
I did request a return for this idm already and will be getting one someplace else. It came from all computer resources. For a 140v they had the best price I found. Was supposed to ship 1-3 days. Didn't get the idm for 2 weeks after many phone calls.
Once I do get it running I am going to send out this other idm I have for testing and repair, just to hVe another good one handy at this point.
That gb tech bulletin is what I've been using, I didn't think about having someone move the wires, as usually I'm working alone. What I've done is used zip ties to have them positioned differently and each time I checked them I get a good reading. The only bad readings I've gotten was going from #6 and #8 injector plug to the idm. I'd get a reading of 100 and 12 with the old idm but it still actually runs. The new idm will read 0 2-8.
Thanks, lesson was definitely learned about using just anyone for a remanufactured one. When I ordered the usual places I order from were out of stock. Riffraff is still oos and that Rae says call for availability. So guess I'll be going with the Chattanooga one since they have one.
Should I go with a 140v again or am I just as well off with the 120? I don't have any plans on gong beyond my 180/30s and the stage 2 turbo.
Understood about your choice of suppliers for the IDM.
As for the 140v, that is up to you. Some claim dramatic running differences and others claim no difference noticed. If the extra coin is worth it to you, it won't hurt anything to "upgrade". I would say that if I ever need to replace the IDM, I will probably give the 140v a shot.
Although, I am no engineer and not an expert on anything, which is the way I like it.
Wanted to post the resolution and say thank you for those that have helped.
The idm I purchased from all computer resources down in Florida was junk. I sent it back now have to wait for a refund. I bought a stock voltage idm from Diesel Tech of Chattanooga, plugged it in and was good to go. I knew as soon as I opened the box it was a higher quality product and well worth the extra money.
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