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Whats everyones opinion on the aluminum oil pan for our 6.0s, i know the trans pan is supposed to drop temps by about 10°, do the oil pans do decent for heavy towing on mostly stock trucks? Anyone running one mind sharing how much it helped, which they have, and how much they paid for it
It's money better spent on things that make a difference in both cases.
2008 pan and filter for the transmission for starters.
Yeah kinda what i figured, ive already got an aluminum trans pan with 6.4 filter and about to have to do a crate engine so while it was out would be the time to do pan if it made a big difference but they are expensive, so far im planning to get engine from south houston engines already fire ringed and studded, then ill do the coolant recirculation kit, a custom regulated fuel return plumbed completely different than ive ever heard of and fed by a fass fuel system(ill try to do pics of that for others) aswell as new oil cooler, hpop, stand pipes, dummies, injectors, harmonic balancer, water pump, thermostat, nitrate free coolant, and unless engine builder says otherwise rotella 15-40 white jug.... im already deleted and programmed with 4" exhaust, coolant filter, amsoil bypass filter, aluminum trans pan with 6.4 filter, billit input shaft, and john woods billet triple lockup converter but because i cant keep trans temps down since i changed converter 4k miles ago im probably going to put a stock converter back in truck while the engine is out, ive sent john 3 emails and called a few times over the last 6 months or so and never got a response
I havent had time to get signature set up yet but 05 f350 lariat cclb 4x4
p.s. i just realized i also have an 05ish 6.0 van with a blown engine which is storage/parts but it has the remote oilfilter kit to move the oil filter down like the 7.3s, ill have to go look at that system later and see if i can tap in a oil to air cooler inline post filter with some kind of bypass valve if cooler gets too restrictive
The stock oil pans from International/Ford are a laminated stamping from MSC, two layers of steel with a noise dampening layer in the center to stop the transmission of sound, the valve covers are the same. It’s the same way for many of the noise insulators used on brake pads.
The stock oil pans from International/Ford are a laminated stamping from MSC, two layers of steel with a noise dampening layer in the center to stop the transmission of sound, the valve covers are the same.
Basically im going to leave the stock system there however im going to put either a manual ball valve or an electrically controlled valve (havent decided which) between the 2 filters on the feed side aswell as a switch to turn factory pump off, then im going to set up the fass fuel under bed like normal with the aftermarket suction straw system it comes with and run it up ontop of transmission to a "Y" block then use a fuel crossover kit that i found on another thread (i believe from TooManyToys) which ill link below mainly for my fittings into the back of the heads but instead of the single line crossing between the heads ill run them down to my "Y" block so that fass fuel is feeding fuel into the back of the heads and using the factory return system as my regulated return however not if but when the fass fuel dies i can just open the valve on the factory system and close the valves on either side of the fass fuel (which i forgot to mention above but just the typical filter change valves) then turn on the factory pump and it will be exactly like stock other than having a crossover and if i close valve on suction side of fass fuel then it can still use the fass fuels regulated return... the main reason im looking at electric valves for this project is so all i have to do is flip a switch in cab to run stock pump occasionally to keep it working, also if someone did it with 2 switches they could have both pumps running at W.O.T. for extra fuel if they were running big injectors
Edit: i will also leave my fuel pressure gauge in the factory filter housing over the intake so i can see final fuel pressure but eventually ill add a second sending unit at fass fuel and be able to switch between them just to see what kind of deltas ill get but thats more for curiosity
Basically im going to leave the stock system there however im going to put either a manual ball valve or an electrically controlled valve (havent decided which) between the 2 filters on the feed side aswell as a switch to turn factory pump off, then im going to set up the fass fuel under bed like normal with the aftermarket suction straw system it comes with and run it up ontop of transmission to a "Y" block then use a fuel crossover kit that i found on another thread (i believe from TooManyToys) which ill link below mainly for my fittings into the back of the heads but instead of the single line crossing between the heads ill run them down to my "Y" block so that fass fuel is feeding fuel into the back of the heads and using the factory return system as my regulated return however not if but when the fass fuel dies i can just open the valve on the factory system and close the valves on either side of the fass fuel (which i forgot to mention above but just the typical filter change valves) then turn on the factory pump and it will be exactly like stock other than having a crossover and if i close valve on suction side of fass fuel then it can still use the fass fuels regulated return... the main reason im looking at electric valves for this project is so all i have to do is flip a switch in cab to run stock pump occasionally to keep it working, also if someone did it with 2 switches they could have both pumps running at W.O.T. for extra fuel if they were running big injectors
Edit: i will also leave my fuel pressure gauge in the factory filter housing over the intake so i can see final fuel pressure but eventually ill add a second sending unit at fass fuel and be able to switch between them just to see what kind of deltas ill get but thats more for curiosity
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.