Just a question for those of you that have removed their fan stator, how did you deal with the fan clutch wires?

 

Version 1, not that pretty.





Version 2, I'll have to get back to you when I make it.

 

7.3L wireless fan clutch and BPD adapter nut and this time around the stator is going to stay on the shelf.

 

I remember the debate was going on in some thread, mine had insulation on it.

 

 

 

Mine did too, held on with large diameter nylon push pins. I am on the fence about leaving it off now. Pretty sure I’ll delete it and see how I like it.

 

Mine had insulation as well. Deleted stator and bdp adapter on now. One of my guys in the shop keeps posting the stator for sale. No bites yet. Not even a nibble at 100 bucks

 

In summer with hot outside temperatures in a traffic jam with long idle periods my air condition switches off from time to time with the 7.3 fan clutch. If I let the engine idle (trans in N) a little higher, it switches on again. Is it the same with your 6.0s?

 

I’ve never had that happen and it’s over 100 degrees here for about two or three months out of the year.

 

Mine does the same. 2004.5 6.0
if I rev to 1000 rpm at stop light it kicks back in. I idle at 642 rpm's.

 

That's exactly what happened with mine. I thought the clutch had gone bad, but it did it again after replacing it. Put the stock clutch back on and no more problems. Never did see any real benefits for the money spent on the conversion, but then I rarely tow either.

 

Why would the cooling fan affect the air conditioner? Is there a signal crossing over or something to do with the PCM?

 

Without going into the manual, there is possibly feedback to the PCM that if cooling is not functioning properly (improper signal) to shut down the AC to prevent it from going to high pressure.

 

I suppose that could be dealt with via tuning if one really had a hard on for the 7.3 clutch.