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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

What clutch ... plus other engine advice please

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Old Aug 13, 2019 | 05:17 PM
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What clutch ... plus other engine advice please

Hey!

So my 86 F150 4x4 sound like it has marbles in the engine ... bottom end is gone ... odometer says 47K ... probably 247K

Only paid $1K for the truck with a plow 5 years ago ... lots of fiberglass and body filler but it still passes inspection each year.

I just got an engine today .... $400 plus $100 shipping.

So, before putting it in, I want to do anything I "should" while the engine is out.

First, a new clutch .... which one? RockAuto has kits from $55 to $120 ... Two questions: 1) how do I know if I have a 10" or 11" (they list both for my truck 2) is one any better then another?

Next, any other parts I should put in? I was thinking maybe a new oil pump and a new gasket set (real main, pan, ...)?

Anything else I am missing that I should do now (obviously new oil, filter, spark plugs, ....)?

Thanks .... Mike
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by xtal_01
First, a new clutch .... which one? RockAuto has kits from $55 to $120 ... Two questions: 1) how do I know if I have a 10" or 11" (they list both for my truck 2) is one any better then another?
Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that the basic small block 1980-1986 trucks came with 10" clutches. However, the 11" clutches fit as an upgrade. My 1984 with 302 had a 10" clutch factory, but it had the holes in the flywheel for the 11" clutch so that is what I installed. I think LUK and Sachs are good brands. I'm not sure about the others. You'll want a clutch "kit" that comes with new pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. For a 300/6 truck, maybe $70-$75 bucks?

Might want to get your flywheel cleaned up if you have a shop close by that can do it.
How is the input shaft seal in the transmission? If you were going to change it, now would be a good time.

PS: While my '84 302 flywheel had the holes for the larger 11" clutch, I'm not 100% certain that they all do. I assume yes, at least in the years after my truck, but maybe somebody else on here can confirm this.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 12:08 PM
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The engine you aquired, is it from a 80-up truck or Bronco? If not, you will need to swap the oil pans, and accommodate the rear mount dipstick. I would go ahead and get a complete engine gasket set, you will not use the head gaskets, but you will find it's cheaper than buying the gaskets one at a time at the store.

When you take the oil pan off, stick your finger up by the timing chain in the front and see how loose it is. If it's never been changed it's overdue. That means pulling the front of the engine down to replace that, I would not skip this step, the chains are notorious for wearing on these engines.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 01:43 PM
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I was lucky enough to get an engine out of the same year! Both are 1986. Mine is standard and the one I got is out of automatic, so I need to use my flywheel.

If I am right ... and I have never had a 300 apart .... doesn't it have just timing gears and no chain? This s one of the items I am thinking of changing .... I was told (but not sure how correct they are) the factory one is plastic and after 33 years it is probably worn?

Mike
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 02:03 PM
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300s are gears, crank steel, cam has the fiber/plastic. Look for parts of that gear in the oil pan. If you find any, replace the plastic gear. If not, and you feel lucky.....

You going to put new bearing inserts in it?

Check the oil pump for wear.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 02:23 PM
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Bearing inserts? You mean the big end rod and the main bearings?

This is exactly what I arguing with myself over.

I just took the engine to the guy who is flipping it for me. I would do it but I don't have a workshop yet (just a concrete pad a present).

He wants to just shove it in the way it is.

I am thinking of putting in a "freshen up" kit ... bearings, rings, gears, oil pump, ....

He says I am asking for trouble but I think it would be wise to do while the engine is out.

Thinking, thinking, thinking, ....

Mike
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 03:48 PM
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On the bearings, it starts with pulling a rod bearing. If it's good, put it back together and keep your fingers crossed.

Installing a used engine without checking anything is a gamble.

Likewise, opening up a used motor invites a bigger project, sometimes leading to way more than you asked for.

Watch a couple "Roadkill" videos, where they clean out the mouse nests, hit it with a little starting fluid, add a turbo and motor on. You'll feel better no matter which way you go, as it will be easy to rationalized whatever action/inaction you take.

Serving suggestion.....
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 05:30 PM
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How many miles on this motor?
Being the same year as yours could it have the same miles?
Was it rebuilt and if so then how many miles?
Does it look like it has been leaking oil since it rolled off the factory floor?
If all are not bad then I would just do the oil, side cover & valve cover gaskets and call it done.

My project trucks motor did look like it was leaking oil since day 1, had no clue the miles, none of the gauges worked and had a miss when running.
On the short test drive the dead hole did come to life for a short time so I thought motor was some what good.
Did a compression test, was good, so a set of new plugs and it ran great.
I pulled the motor, cleaned it and replace the pan, side cover & valve cover gaskets, painted and put it back in.
Doing this I did find this motor was replaced from a newer car or truck as it had some gray paint.

When you do the motor swap I would hold on to your old motor to rebuild down the road.
If not in a rush because the truck is running you can rebuild it in steps. Do the head and store it then when you have the $$ do the block and you then have a complete rebuilt motor.
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 05:44 PM
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Good advice.

Since these trucks only have 5 digit odometers, it could be 46K, 146k, 246k, ....

I got it from a yard 6 hours away .. they pulled and shipped it.

They "said" it was running good ... said they drove the truck around the yard.

For $400 and $100 shipping, I had nothing to loose.

I just got it ...still in plastic. Going to rain for two days, so I will leave it wrapped ... take a good look at it on the weekend.

thanks ... Mike
 
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Old Aug 15, 2019 | 02:09 PM
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I would at least buy a engine gasket kit and replace some of the gaskets. No matter how many miles are on it, the rubber and cork get old after awhile, and it will have oil leaks. You could pull a rod cap and take a peek. You can also take the oil pump apart and see how it looks. You could pull the rear main and while there, replace the seal. Very easy to do when the engine is not in the truck.
 
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