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While I'm installing a new Adrenaline HPOP, what other parts should I replace?
Hey Guys,
I ordered an Adrenaline HPOP for my 2002 with 220k miles. While Im swapping that out, what other parts should I replace?I think the Adrenaline comes with the gasket for the HPOP to the engine block as well as the o-rings for the fuel lines into and out of the Adrenaline HPOP.
I was gonna rebuild the fuel bowl with new o-rings, heater element, water sensor, pressure relief valve for $225 at Diesel O-rings but its easier to just buy a new fuel bow from Motorcraft for $275 and save the trouble of rebuilding it.
I know I need the reservoir gasket/basket Ford YC3Z-6619-BA.
My IPR is new. Is a new exhaust back pressure sensor worth purchasing? I think part MOTORCRAFT DPFE3 {#4C3Z9J460A} ?
I'd inspect the EBP sensor and maybe clean it and the tube. Not a common failure item, they just get dirty. Look for oil leaks at the pedestal, and while there eyeball the passenger side fuel line at the clamp for wear.
New HPOP hoses if yours are original. They become prone to failure as they age, and the newer design is better.
That and some hybrid sticks and a T4 turbo setup and call it a day.
I'd inspect the EBP sensor and maybe clean it and the tube. Not a common failure item, they just get dirty. Look for oil leaks at the pedestal, and while there eyeball the passenger side fuel line at the clamp for wear.
New HPOP hoses if yours are original. They become prone to failure as they age, and the newer design is better.
That and some hybrid sticks and a T4 turbo setup and call it a day.
Thanks for your input. Passenger side fuel line at clamp into what?
You mean these lines?
Turbo and new injectors is next. But one step at a time.
He means the fuel line. What you have pictured are the HPOP lines. I would do a CNC Fab line upgrade for those and get rid of the pesky quik-connects. Others will chime in on this. Some will disagree. It's personal preference. You'll see the fuel line referenced when you look at the valley. The clamp on the pass side can rub through the line over time causing a major hemorrhage. Some just remove it, while others reinforce it. Curious, why are you replacing the HPOP?
He means the fuel line. What you have pictured are the HPOP lines. I would do a CNC Fab line upgrade for those and get rid of the pesky quik-connects. Others will chime in on this. Some will disagree. It's personal preference. You'll see the fuel line referenced when you look at the valley. The clamp on the pass side can rub through the line over time causing a major hemorrhage. Some just remove it, while others reinforce it. Curious, why are you replacing the HPOP?
hmmm...Im gonna need some help understanding which fuel line youre talking about which can can be damaged from vibration/rubbing.
The 2 HPOP lines should still be changed after 17 years of use no?
Im changing the HPOP because Im having a no-start issue. First it was intermittent and now its constant. Truck hasnt moved in months and Im at my wits end.
Ive changed all the standard culprits with FORD parts (the injection pressure sensor, the IPR, the crank position sensor (new purple colored part), the wiring to all three was changed or scrutinized, the fuel bowl heater has been plugged and unplugged to no effect. The tuner has been removed. She turns over but wont start and so now Im putting in a new fuel bowl and HPOP. Bosch Fuel pump is new.
I know, I know, Im not diagnosing the issue first but Ive had no success on the forum getting anyone to help me so Im relegated to throwing parts at the truck. At 220k miles and 17 years, Im ok with a new HPOP and Fuel bowl.
I realize I may be adding adversity to any diagnosis but Im at an impasse.
hmmm...Im gonna need some help understanding which fuel line youre talking about which can can be damaged from vibration/rubbing.
The line that runs from the bowl parallel to the passenger head and to the back of the head near the down pipe. There is a clamp halfway back on the head toward the valley that can cause issues. A Google or FTE search will literally bring up hundreds of pictures of the clamp.
The 2 HPOP lines should still be changed after 17 years of use no?
Highly recommended, but not required.
Im changing the HPOP because Im having a no-start issue. First it was intermittent and now its constant. Truck hasnt moved in months and Im at my wits end.
Ive changed all the standard culprits with FORD parts (the injection pressure sensor, the IPR, the crank position sensor (new purple colored part), the wiring to all three was changed or scrutinized, the fuel bowl heater has been plugged and unplugged to no effect. The tuner has been removed. She turns over but wont start and so now Im putting in a new fuel bowl and HPOP. Bosch Fuel pump is new.
I know, I know, Im not diagnosing the issue first but Ive had no success on the forum getting anyone to help me so Im relegated to throwing parts at the truck. At 220k miles and 17 years, Im ok with a new HPOP and Fuel bowl.
Do you have a way to monitor the truck and the components? Something like Torque Pro, Forscan, Forscan Lite, CarGauge Pro, etc...
You have to be willing to help yourself before we can help you. We recommend and encourage techniques and troubleshooting steps that are often overlooked or passed off as "not required".
We are here to help and hate to see people waste their time and money, but we need data, symptoms and detailed information in order to get to a recommended fix action.
The HPOP is very reliable and not normally the issue, but they do fail and need to be replaced.
I realize I may be adding adversity to any diagnosis but Im at an impasse.
Thanks B! I looked into the cost of a new $275 delivered Motorcraft vs completely rebuilding the bowl and all its components and the difference was like $40 more for a new bowl. So I opted for new rather than rebuilt.
Thanks for the tip on the hard line that has been known to "rub through" as a result of vibraton. Turns out it was just fine at 220k miles. The front clamp for the other fuel hard line was also ok. But man o man the viton grommet on that rear hard line into the head near the firewall was dry rotted and coming apart. No wonder the back of my engine bay and starter are covered in fuel.
I changed every seal I could get my hands on. Viton grommets, flexible lines, o-rings for the fitting on both ends of the flexible lines.
Someone wanna tell me why these come packaged in a metallic bag?
If it's the hard fuel lines from the bowl to the head mine came in the standard Ford plastic bag (white on the back, clear on the front) when I got new ones years ago.
Anytime I break the fuel line connection at the bowl or head I always get new Parker sleeves and they get chewed up in short order.
You can buy the viton Parker sleeves individually at dieselorings.com (3/8" for fuel bowl inlet, 5/16" for fuel bowl return, and 1/4" fuel line connection for both the bowl and the head).
Ya I got all of those. Im talking about what those hardlines fit onto that enter the heads. Those bungs or whatever you call them. Do they also come out and have an o-ring?
Ya I got all of those. Im talking about what those hardlines fit onto that enter the heads. Those bungs or whatever you call them. Do they also come out and have an o-ring?
The fuel line fitting that connects to the head fitting has a Parker sleeve. The head fitting is just an NPT into the head IIRC. For those fittings there's no o-ring for that. The last time I R&R the head fittings for the fuel lines I used Gasoila and didn't have any issues:
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