What has been your experience with the HPOP lines and fittings?
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What has been your experience with the HPOP lines and fittings?
Mine seem not to be leaking and I assume everything is original at 158,000 miles, but don't know that for certain since I bought the truck with 140,000 on it.
I watched this guy's video about replacing the fittings at the pump and he seemed to suggest the lines themselves are not that prone to failure, but have other people seen otherwise?
I watched this guy's video about replacing the fittings at the pump and he seemed to suggest the lines themselves are not that prone to failure, but have other people seen otherwise?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
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From: San Diego, CA
The newer design OEM HPOP lines did fine by me.
I did have a leak at an HPO fitting almost the same as the video except it was the other fitting next to it that the o-ring blew out.
I ended up just replacing the fitting itself. $8 for the repair kit or $14 for a brand new fitting. No brainer for me...I just bought a new fitting already assembled.
I did have a leak at an HPO fitting almost the same as the video except it was the other fitting next to it that the o-ring blew out.
I ended up just replacing the fitting itself. $8 for the repair kit or $14 for a brand new fitting. No brainer for me...I just bought a new fitting already assembled.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
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From: Arizona
I replaced mine with the updated IH ones at about 150K. I also replaced all the fittings both at the pump and at the heads, I didn't want to risk having one blow off like has happened to some guys when the fitting didn't hold, the mess that would make to me is way worse than the extra cash and time to go all new. When you do the fittings on the pump best to drain it down, clean thoroughly, let dry overnight then assemble using the proper threadlocker (there is a special one for this but I don't recall the name) and let dry again overnight. (I also rebuilt the IPR when it was out to drain the pump) I did it that way and had 100% success. Nary a drip anywhere. My old lines now reside in my spare parts box.
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
At 230,000 miles I replaced both HPOP lines with the updated IH version. Because I wanted a good and sealed connection, I replaced the fittings on both heads and the fittings at the HPOP.
I used the high flow non-check valve fittings from RiffRaff for the HPOP side. These will give you the same results as the HPx line without the extra leak points.
The updated lines from IH are superior to the original ones.
Corey at CNC Fabrication makes some nice stuff too, but the "bad" HPOP lines lasted 19 years, so I just went with the IH again.
I used the high flow non-check valve fittings from RiffRaff for the HPOP side. These will give you the same results as the HPx line without the extra leak points.
The updated lines from IH are superior to the original ones.
Corey at CNC Fabrication makes some nice stuff too, but the "bad" HPOP lines lasted 19 years, so I just went with the IH again.
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Curious, when did they update the OEM parts? Did any of that make it into the later engines from the factory or was it much later?
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It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA
If the fittings are not leaking I'd leave them alone. If you do replace them mind what BigB said, that's the correct procedure. I carefully placed the geen lok tite on the first couple threads of the fittings, then quickly wiped the holes clean and slapped them in the HPOP before the oil could seep out. Held fine for me but that seems lucky, many people get leaks unless the proper procedure is followed.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Temperance, MI
Replace them before they go out. My truck had 117k miles on it when I had one let loose. They were the factory ss braided lines still. That was a tow home, under coated the truck and then some and I did an oil change because I lost so much oil without realizing it that it shut down my injectors and I was on the side of the road. I have pictures of the mess in my gallery. I had no need to touch the fittings, I just replaced both lines and was good to go.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Temperance, MI
Yes. No need to change the fittings. I got mine from riffraff, clay had the best price at the time. I would suggest getting the quick disconnect tool also. It sure beats trying to use two screwdrivers.
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Banned
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So that's about $200. What about the CNC Fab kit for $135 that gets rid of the original end fittings and the check valve. Is there a performance benefit there or is it just simpler and less prone to leaking?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Texas
Simple, nice, less prone to leak, and don't have to deal with the poor design quik-connects. I personally would rather have something that tightens down that is actually threaded rather than a snap fitting when your under 3,000 pounds of pressure.
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
There are advantages and disadvantages to both. I bought new fittings because I wanted a clean and fresh connection point for the new lines.
The check valves are simply a spring with a disc attached to it. You can remove them for free dollars if you like.
The benefit of removing the check valves is that you are doing the same thing the HPx does, without buying it. I believe I said that earlier in this thread, maybe I didn't.
The fittings are cheap and are more than capable of holding well beyond the 3000 psi the HPOP might put out.
On the other hand, CNC Fab brings the fittings into a different area by making them threaded instead of the snap on.
Again, advantages to both it is just a matter of which you prefer. They are both going to provide oil to the injectors via the HPOP and neither is better than the other.
Decide and pick one and be happy with your choice.
The check valves are simply a spring with a disc attached to it. You can remove them for free dollars if you like.
The benefit of removing the check valves is that you are doing the same thing the HPx does, without buying it. I believe I said that earlier in this thread, maybe I didn't.
The fittings are cheap and are more than capable of holding well beyond the 3000 psi the HPOP might put out.
On the other hand, CNC Fab brings the fittings into a different area by making them threaded instead of the snap on.
Again, advantages to both it is just a matter of which you prefer. They are both going to provide oil to the injectors via the HPOP and neither is better than the other.
Decide and pick one and be happy with your choice.
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I'm still not clear on what the check valve springs actually do, and why getting rid of them is okay. I know the CNC kit says take them out but that is a whole different connection type. What does taking them out of the stock fittings accomplish exactly?