When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys and gals! I need some advice, please!
What I got:
1973 Ford F250
it runs the 390 V8
Automatic, 2 Wheel drive
ALL ORIGINAL - until after I start messing with it.
What I need:
Well, as the title says, I need a new carburetor, with an electric choke, and 2 barrel.
My options:
I really have no idea. I can go with the Motocraft and know that it will fit and work, but I would like something with more power, I do not care much about gas mileage, this will be a hunting rig, so it needs to be able to get up and down, and tow a trailer. From what I have learned recently, Edelbrock is out because they do not create a 2 barrel carb.... WHAT???
I am sure there is a Holley, but will I need an adaptor, or is there one that will bolt right on? I tried to figure this out, but I couldn't. Are there any other companies I should look at? is 500 more or less than the original Motocraft (or whatever it is that came on the truck originally).
Thanks everyone! I am excited to start rebuilding this vehicle once I can get the choke issue addressed, and get it running. I will possibly keep a thread in my introduction on how it goes, with pictures! lol
A big carburetor will only help for "more power" to a point, remember the engine is basically an air pump and the stock exhaust system is usually the limiting factor as they are restrictive. The power increase is generally only at high RPM and high speed at the top end. If you go real big, the engine will actually run too lean. They do look cool, and will lighten your wallet though.
Either one will serve you well and will bolt right up.
What are your plans for this truck? This might be a time to consider a 4v intake and carb.
This is a hunting rig (I see the gasps, all original classic getting beat up...) I need the power at low rpm as I will not be going fast. I was worried the Holley wouldn’t bolt right on as nobody seems to have it listed as “fits this truck”... thank you for the info!
A big carburetor will only help for "more power" to a point, remember the engine is basically an air pump and the stock exhaust system is usually the limiting factor as they are restrictive. The power increase is generally only at high RPM and high speed at the top end. If you go real big, the engine will actually run too lean. They do look cool, and will lighten your wallet though.
Thanks! This is what I thought, I didn’t want to spend the extra grand to convert because it’s a truck for the woods, not the street. I was thinking of going straight pipe... (small town, no EmIssions checks)
I've never seen a factory 2v 390, but if it's really a factory 2V that means it's lower compression. which means a 4V isn't going to do you much good.
Are you sure it's not a 360 ? either way if it came with a 2V your potential for any power gain is very limited.
it still has the original sticker on the manifold cover, it’s a 390. And the Carb has one flap, I can look at it again, because I just gave it a quick look and didn’t see 2 flaps. It was basically a one owner and it had the transmission rebuilt, that’s it. I replaced the battery the day I got it because it was trash, the electric choke is dead and it doesn’t throttle correctly (broken link). I just got the book, and it lists the 390 with a 2 barrel as well. 🤷🏼*♂️
Thanks! This is what I thought, I didn’t want to spend the extra grand to convert because it’s a truck for the woods, not the street. I was thinking of going straight pipe... (small town, no EmIssions checks)
Straight pipes? Hope whatever you are hunting doesn't get spooked out of the area.
I need the power at low rpm as I will not be going fast.
Then most def what you want is a smaller carburetor, not a bigger one. Stock OEM carbs for Pickup Trucks were always seemingly on the small side, but there's a reason for this, because good off idle response without bogging or hesitation with heavy loads (and trucks are already heavy even when empty) depends on a strong crisp vacuum signal through the intake & carburetor venturi.
Carburetion is all about effective fuel atomization, the finer the better. That's why the 2100 and 2150 series are considered one of the best carburetors ever designed, they used annular discharge booster clusters (those two round dealdebobs in the carb throat). A small venturi means high velocity through carb throat, and that means better fuel atomization. Thing is mostly there's not that much difference otherwise, big carburetors mean a higher top end and more power at the far end. A big intake and carburetor and rumpety camshaft only works right when wound out at high RPM, to get in the good atomization range for the intended application, that's why drag racing engines don't idle well and don't work so great on the street.
What you want to do is find out exactly what it is that you have, 360 or 390, and what intake manifold. Stock? The latter is just as important as the carb. What kind of exhaust? Stock? Measure cylinder compression too. Then carefully select a carburetor CFM size based on your intended application. The CFM tables or charts at the websites are designed for drag racing and will point you to a big *** carburetor. What did your truck ship with from OEM? I bet it was 1.08" if it's a 360, something like that.
Instead plug in your engine size in Cubic inches, use an efficiency rating of 75%, and then, instead of something like 6000 RPM, plug in the RPM your engine runs at when on level ground in high gear on the highway at 50 or 60 mph. It's OK to select a carburetor with slightly less CFM than the engine size. Ford did this with their big trucks. As mentioned a big carb won't usually do anything for you if it can't be utilized, and it will generally run poorly at low speeds and the conditions you are describing for your application. There are rebuilt Autolites that should bolt right up. Gottagofish on eBay always has a passle of them. The 2100 was available in .098" , 1.01", 1.02", 1.08", 1.12", 1.21" and 1.33" size venturies. Get some learnin' on power valves too, this is often overlooked and once again, all the advice on sizing and selection is usually based on drag racing.
Then most def what you want is a smaller carburetor, not a bigger one. Stock OEM carbs for Pickup Trucks were always seemingly on the small side, but there's a reason for this, because good off idle response without bogging or hesitation with heavy loads (and trucks are already heavy even when empty) depends on a strong crisp vacuum signal through the intake & carburetor venturi.
Carburetion is all about effective fuel atomization, the finer the better. That's why the 2100 and 2150 series are considered one of the best carburetors ever designed, they used annular discharge booster clusters (those two round dealdebobs in the carb throat). A small venturi means high velocity through carb throat, and that means better fuel atomization. Thing is mostly there's not that much difference otherwise, big carburetors mean a higher top end and more power at the far end. A big intake and carburetor and rumpety camshaft only works right when wound out at high RPM, to get in the good atomization range for the intended application, that's why drag racing engines don't idle well and don't work so great on the street.
What you want to do is find out exactly what it is that you have, 360 or 390, and what intake manifold. Stock? The latter is just as important as the carb. What kind of exhaust? Stock? Measure cylinder compression too. Then carefully select a carburetor CFM size based on your intended application. The CFM tables or charts at the websites are designed for drag racing and will point you to a big *** carburetor. What did your truck ship with from OEM? I bet it was 1.08" if it's a 360, something like that.
Instead plug in your engine size in Cubic inches, use an efficiency rating of 75%, and then, instead of something like 6000 RPM, plug in the RPM your engine runs at when on level ground in high gear on the highway at 50 or 60 mph. It's OK to select a carburetor with slightly less CFM than the engine size. Ford did this with their big trucks. As mentioned a big carb won't usually do anything for you if it can't be utilized, and it will generally run poorly at low speeds and the conditions you are describing for your application. There are rebuilt Autolites that should bolt right up. Gottagofish on eBay always has a passle of them. The 2100 was available in .098" , 1.01", 1.02", 1.08", 1.12", 1.21" and 1.33" size venturies. Get some learnin' on power valves too, this is often overlooked and once again, all the advice on sizing and selection is usually based on drag racing.
Thank you! This is really good info, I wasn’t sure if these lower brands weee worth it, they are more than $100 cheaper and as a disabled veteran who isn’t racing, saving money is helpful. I will look at those as well. I will post a pic of the sticker, it has all that info on it.
I wasn’t sure if these lower brands were worth it, they are more than $100 cheaper
I looked it up, the guys name on eBay is Gottafishgs ; I don't know if it's worth trying to save money on some things. My experience has too often been trying to cheap out gets downright expensive! "Buy once, cry once."
UPDATE: Oh my gawwwwwd! Look at what I found under the seat!!!
Here are 2 sticker pictures, a few pics of what I just found under the seat, and a pic of the carb... if any of it helps.
First sticker shows it is a 390 Not sure what the 550 650 are for, but it is an Automatic transmission. This is a log book containing EVERY time the dude put gas, oil, or anything in it, WOW!!!! Weight distribution for camper??? Here is the carb from the top (with the single flap still closed because even warm it doesn't open up all the way. This is pretty damn cool but I dont understand what all the numbers mean.
weird, it didn't post all my pics?
TRYING AGAIN:
Here are some pics of stuff i found under the seat, and a pic of the carb... if it helps. I have no idea what some of the one document means, but the log book is super cool!! I also have the original manual!
This is pretty damn cool but I dont understand what all the numbers mean. This is a log book containing EVERY time the dude put gas, oil, or anything in it, WOW!!!! Not sure what the 550 650 are for, but it is an Automatic transmission. First sticker shows it is a 390
Motorcraft 2 and 4 barrels are pretty dang good. That' all I know. Folks like to slap on a giant elderbroke with chrome air cleaner after snipping a bunch of vacuum lines and then wonder why it doesn't run quite right....
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
