Moisture in oil 1990 4.9l engine
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Moisture in oil 1990 4.9l engine
I have a 1990 e350 with the 4.9 engine in it that has 120k miles on it. I seem to be having an issue with moisture in the oil. I have water droplets in the oil cap, a small amammount of tan sludge on the dipstick, and the same sludge in hose going to the crankcase breather filter. I'm not losing any coolant and the engine has good compression when checked with a tester. I've been running 10-30 Shell T-5 oil
The weird thing is that it only happens on long trips, and seems to be worse when it rains. It's happened in warm and cold weather too. I've been told it is everything from a blown head gasket, cracked block, bad PCV, worn out piston rings, and that it is normal. I've changed the PCV and crankcase breather filter and it seem a bit better but still has considerable moisture.
Has anyone experienced this? Could this be due to the oil I'm using or driving habits? I don't really want to tear into the engine if it's normal.
The weird thing is that it only happens on long trips, and seems to be worse when it rains. It's happened in warm and cold weather too. I've been told it is everything from a blown head gasket, cracked block, bad PCV, worn out piston rings, and that it is normal. I've changed the PCV and crankcase breather filter and it seem a bit better but still has considerable moisture.
Has anyone experienced this? Could this be due to the oil I'm using or driving habits? I don't really want to tear into the engine if it's normal.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Cleveland, TN
How far do you drive each time? Does the engine get up to FULL operating temp? How many trips in a day? What I'm getting a is : short trips without thorough warm up can cause condensation (water)
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Every time I do long trips, 300+ miles, I get this problem. After short trips, there is no sign of moisture in the oil. This seem like the exact opposite of what you would expect with moisture in the oil due to driving short trips.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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I have a 1990 e350 with the 4.9 engine in it that has 120k miles on it. I seem to be having an issue with moisture in the oil. I have water droplets in the oil cap, a small amammount of tan sludge on the dipstick, and the same sludge in hose going to the crankcase breather filter. I'm not losing any coolant and the engine has good compression when checked with a tester. I've been running 10-30 Shell T-5 oil
The weird thing is that it only happens on long trips, and seems to be worse when it rains. It's happened in warm and cold weather too. I've been told it is everything from a blown head gasket, cracked block, bad PCV, worn out piston rings, and that it is normal. I've changed the PCV and crankcase breather filter and it seem a bit better but still has considerable moisture.
Has anyone experienced this? Could this be due to the oil I'm using or driving habits? I don't really want to tear into the engine if it's normal.
The weird thing is that it only happens on long trips, and seems to be worse when it rains. It's happened in warm and cold weather too. I've been told it is everything from a blown head gasket, cracked block, bad PCV, worn out piston rings, and that it is normal. I've changed the PCV and crankcase breather filter and it seem a bit better but still has considerable moisture.
Has anyone experienced this? Could this be due to the oil I'm using or driving habits? I don't really want to tear into the engine if it's normal.
As long as there is no water in the oil when it is drained cold, and the compression is good I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe do more long trips and get the motor hot long enought to boil the water out of the motor, and exhaust system more often will help. Water is a byproduct of the gas burning also.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
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From: Mexico, Missouri
Jas88 and oldman are spot on. The 300 is known for this.
Also, when you have been driving for a long period of time, check the clutch fan and see if it's still somewhat locked and blowing large amount of air. The 300 is long and the oil fill cap is directly in front of the cooling fan. If the clutch fan is staying locked after fully warmed up, then that's also contributing to the problem.
I've been through 3 Hayden clutch fans. They're junk and don't meet Motorcraft specs in my book. All 3 would stay locked even after the engines been up to temp and only disengage shortly when I was at really high rpms. Fuel mileage sucked and I always had the cooling fan roaring. I ended paying over $100 for a Motorcraft clutch fan that disengages after the engine and radiator are up to temp.
Also, when you have been driving for a long period of time, check the clutch fan and see if it's still somewhat locked and blowing large amount of air. The 300 is long and the oil fill cap is directly in front of the cooling fan. If the clutch fan is staying locked after fully warmed up, then that's also contributing to the problem.
I've been through 3 Hayden clutch fans. They're junk and don't meet Motorcraft specs in my book. All 3 would stay locked even after the engines been up to temp and only disengage shortly when I was at really high rpms. Fuel mileage sucked and I always had the cooling fan roaring. I ended paying over $100 for a Motorcraft clutch fan that disengages after the engine and radiator are up to temp.
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The previous owner said he had the same issue with the fan clutches. He wired in 2 electric fans. No issues with them so far other than the wiring being both poorly done and exclusively blue. They turn off at speed and keep the temperature around 180 or so degrees.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mexico, Missouri
Either the temp setting is to low or there is a cooler t-stat installed. I would increase the temp settings for the electric fans to kick on at 195. The OEM spec is 192°F t-stat and running cooler especially in the winter isn't helping with the milky mess you have.
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check your vacuum to the pcv valve, been there had that problem!
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