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Should I buy new Ford BC3Z-6K682-C turbo for 2011 6.7?
My 2011 F250 6.7 has 45K Miles with no real issues. I am wary of the history behind the stock Garrett turbo & have been considering replacing the original with either the revised Ford BC3Z-6K682 or a 366 Borg Warner. Any advice?
No. I say that because I chose not to do anything with mine and stopped worrying about it. Mine has 107,000 and the turbo hasn't had perfect operation. Occasionally only during cooler temperatures and the first start of the day it'll sound like a mini table saw for a few seconds but it has since new. Additionally, I have lost count of the times where the vanes get stuck closed (no boost) and I have to restart to fix (that's my guess anyways). Even with those two issues, it powers the truck fine. If it fails, then I'll replace it but I've had to focus expenses for actual issues vs a component that may or may not fail. Just put the cost of turbo replacement in your unplanned expenses fund and if nothing happens, apply it to a new truck one day. It's my understanding (not saying I'm correct) when the ceramic bearings fail, the repair simply involves replacing the turbo and not causing further engine damage. From my research the sound is obvious and to reduce further damage, stop driving the truck. If someone has had a turbo failure on an 11/12, maybe they'll share their experience such as if it caused further damage.
Thanks. I will research the level of damage that occurs when these turbo’s fail. It has been my understanding that overspeed/failure can effectively destroy the 6.7 engine. I need more info. Cheers!
My 2012 got better mileage then my 2016. Both identical in builds other then the turbo and horse power numbers. Had over 200000k on 12 when it was written off and no turbo problems.
Subscribing to follow along. My 2011 had a turbo code when I bought it and I reset and 4000 miles it hasn’t returned. Operating normal it seems and I pull with it heavy regularly.
‘11 KR lost the turbo at 160k+. Deleted and had a mini maxx on it since about 20k. I drove that thing like I stole it 80 mile to work every day (160 mi RT), it would usually idle 10 to 14 hrs then I drove it like a mazaratti back home. And about twice a month it would haul a 15,000# 5th wheel a couple hinder miles. If I had replaced the air cleaner on it on time I don’t think it would have lost the bearings. I’m pretty sure proper maintenance and sensible driving they would last a loooong time. Just my opinion. I replaced it with the ‘15 upgrade kit and drove it another 40 or 50k. I still see it driving around.....
‘11 KR lost the turbo at 160k+. Deleted and had a mini maxx on it since about 20k. I drove that thing like I stole it 80 mile to work every day (160 mi RT), it would usually idle 10 to 14 hrs then I drove it like a mazaratti back home. And about twice a month it would haul a 15,000# 5th wheel a couple hinder miles. If I had replaced the air cleaner on it on time I don’t think it would have lost the bearings. I’m pretty sure proper maintenance and sensible driving they would last a loooong time. Just my opinion. I replaced it with the ‘15 upgrade kit and drove it another 40 or 50k. I still see it driving around.....
How high was the boost on a regular basis? My understanding is too much time (over weeks or years) above 25 PSI and it'll rapidly guarantee the need for a new turbo. If, for example, you made it 140k regularly exceeding the factory 21 PSI, I'd say that turbo held on quite well. This is assuming all of our '11 turbos are terrible but there were a lot of 2011/2012 trucks sold.
I had a new turbo at 33k due to blowing the CAC hose. Let me explain. Many of you now know about the plastic CAC pipes supplied by Ford, but I, and now dozens of others including a few techs think that is what caused my turbo failure. I was towing around 27,000 pounds and in a long hill, high boosted pull when my CAC hose blew at 23k miles . Afterwards I started having real problems with regens and boosting issues. The cause, or at least part of it may have been when the pipe burst. The turbo was under load and then all of a sudden pressure was lost and allowed the turbo to rev up extremely high as it was free to spin. The techs surmise that is when the vanes struck the case as the wheel flexed. After that I started having problems with incomplete regens, which when the turbo was replaced, found the EGR cooler and cooler core completely clogged due to an inefficient turbo. After the new turbo, cooler and core were replaced, no more problems.
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