I have replaced the synchronizer on 2 different 4.2's - an '05 Freestar and a '99 E250. Both were relatively easy; the E250 was just more difficult to get to and the vane on the synchronizer was obliterated. I had to find TDC without the benefit of a timing mark since the crankshaft pulley did not have any marks. I changed the one on the '05 about 6 years ago with no issues and the E250 was changed about 1-1/2 years ago and is throwing a code again.

I removed the sensor and found grease had crept up around the vane on the synchronizer. I was just going to replace the sensor but figured a seal was going bad on the synchronizer so I removed it.

Went to install the new synchronizer and I can not get the oil pump intermediate shaft to go past a certain point. I can't get the gear on the synchronizer past the opening - it won't go any further because the shaft won't go in. I am beyond frustrated.

Anyone else run into this?

I would hate to pull the oil pump or the timing chain cover.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Hi, I'm sorry I can't answer your question but instead am asking you one! I'm trying to replace my Camshaft Position Sensor on my '99 E150 (4.2L) and it is soooo hard to get to! Did you have to remove the water pump for access? Any guidance would be appreciated. Good luck!

 

If you are just replacing just the sensor, you need to remove the EGR valve, drain the coolant and pull up on the Y shaped water outlet pipe to move it out of the way. There is a bolt that you remove at the base of the pipe. Mine was in there snugly so had to pry it out - be careful to not use too much force and damage the pipe.

The tiny bolts that hold the sensor onto the synchronizer are 5.5 mm so you will need to go out and get a 5.5 mm socket if you don't have one already. I was surprised to find one at my local ACE hardware store.

I think the manual says to partially drain the coolant prior to removing the Y pipe. The problem is knowing how much is enough. I discovered that I didn't drain enough when I pulled the Y pipe and coolant gushed out.

If the metal vane on top of the synchronizer is still intact, make a burnt offering to the car repair gods to thank them for showing mercy on you. I must have offended them in some way because the vane on mine was obliterated and I had to replace the entire synchronizer.

If you need to replace the synchronizer because the vane is shot, this is what you need to do in addition to what you have already done:

• Remove the hoses from the Y pipe. In addition to the hoses that are up front, there are 2 smaller hoses on the back. Not much room to work. I don't have the special hose clamp pliers so I used long needle nose pliers that I picked up from Harbor Freight for the clamps. I use long reach hose pliers to remove the hoses from the pipe. When re-installing, replace the o-ring at the bottom of the pipe (lubricate with some oil first). I also spray some silicone on my finger and run it around the inside of the hoses to ease with installation. Never had a problem with leaks.
  
• Loosen the EGR pipe from the exhaust. The pipe threads onto a nipple that threads into the exhaust. Whichever one comes out easier is the one to go with. This is accessible from inside the van on the passenger side. Be mindful of the O2 sensor that is close by.
  
• Mark the location of the old synchronizer on the timing chain cover. Remove the synchronizer with the oil pump drive shaft. Transfer the shaft to the new synchronizer.
  
• Set the #1 cylinder to TDC. I could not find the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley on my van - again, I must have angered the repair gods in some way. There are a few methods for finding TDC. I frankensteined a compression gauge and a vacuum gauge and used Eric the Car Guy's method from his YouTube video on finding TDC.
  
• Attach the supplied tool to the top of the synchronizer and drop it in. The problem I was having was that the oil pump shaft was sliding to the side of the hole inside the timing chain cover.
  
• Tighten down the synchronizer and remove the tool from the top and install the sensor.
  
• Put everything back together.

Just take your time and if you sense yourself getting frustrated, walk away for a bit.

I have attached some Googled pictures that show an obliterated synchronizer, and a link to Eric's video.

Good Luck

 

Couldn't get the pictures to upload...sorry.