I am looking at a 2000 Ford F150 extended cab with the 4.2l v-6 and auto transmission. The truck is extremely clean, but I have not driven it yet. I know the 4.6 and 5.4 are very reliable engines. But I don't know a lot about the 4.2l v-6. I know the older straight 300 six cylinders were extremely reliable.


I have done just a little researching and have seen where the 97-98 year models had head gasket problems. This is a 2000 with 157,000 miles.


This forum has never steered me wrong. So, what are your thoughts?

 

Mine is a 98, 4.2, automatic... Overall, I'd say it's pretty reliable.

It was a little over 150K when I got it, about ten years ago.. I was told that it was a lot of highway miles, as the truck was originally from Florida, and then driven all over the mainland. It has a trailer hitch, but I don't know how much it got used... I only towed with it about 10-20 times myself.

When I first got it, it needed an alternator within the first week but that was an easy fix. After a few years, I had to replace a couple vacuum lines. At around 175-180K I had to replace the coil pack, so I put new plugs and wires at the same time.

At around 195K, the radiator failed and let coolant into the trans... That was a bad one.. It ruined the trans, had to get it rebuilt.

All in all, I can't complain. It's over 200K now, and still hanging in there... And I don't take nearly as good of care of it as some people would.

 

Thanks for the reply. I really didn't know much about the 4.2l engine until I started researching it. I was just looking up the horsepower and gas millage.


Then I came across some horror stories of how the intake manifolds fail and cause coolant to leak into the engine causing hydro lock. Problems with the timing chain and cover. Then after posting this question I researched this forum and found out that most of these problems occurred on the 97-98 year models. But I also read where some of the same problems were occurring on later year models all the way up to 2003.


For the past two years I have been traveling the hwy a lot because I moved about an hour away from home. But I am still constantly back and forth each week. I needed more room for the trips. I sold my single cab Nissan 4x4 single cab that I bought new in 1997. Strictly kept up maintenance for 20 years. The only other vehicle I have is a 2004 2wd Ford Ranger Edge, but it also a single cab.


I actually owned a Ford 4.2l a long time ago. It was a single cab 5-speed. Can't recall the year model. But it was not a 97-98 model. I bought it from my brother in law. He had a company truck and barely drove his personal truck. I never had any problems out of it. But I knew the owner and how it was maintained. I didn't do any research what so ever back then and with the low millage I really wasn't worried.


The 2000 model Ford F150 extended cab automatic I am looking at now. Someone definitely kept up the appearance and inside of the truck. But I have no idea about the motor.


I know even the best of engines can have problems anytime. I read on this forum the success stories of many of the 4.2l lasting over 300,000 miles.


I guess there is an increased risk of buying any vehicle that is 18 years old. I have looked at many pieces of junk in the past two months and turned my nose at every one of them. But this truck is so clean. Guess it is just a risk I am going to have to take.


Thanks,


brc

 

Well I went and bought the truck. Took my on ob2 scanner with me. Sure enough it had the service engine light on. Code p0171. Most common code with the 4.2 l. My truck has the high idle. I haven't had time to see if it is a vacuum line, dirty or malfunctioning MAF sensor, or even if it is leaking around the intake manifold.

There is one thing wrong with the truck that I do not know how to fix. The extended cab rear doors won't open. The same thing happened to my Dad's Ford Ranger a while back. I know it is the cable that works the doors has broke somewhere. Is there a diy fix to this problem?

brc

 

Yup, but it's not the cable that breaks, it's the plastic part that holds the cable where it meets the latch. You might be able to fix it with $6 worth of bicycle parts. You know the brake cable adjustment piece on the handlebars? It has a slot so you can slip it over the cable without having to disconnect it (the cable can't be disconnected). When you see the latch, you'll see what mean. Or you can replace the whole cable/latch units, but iirc, it's about $200 for the pair of them.

For that code, check the rubber elbows on the vacuum line under the intake. The front one is under the throttle body. In these pics, the tip of the pencil is on it.








The back one is harder to reach... It's at the back of the manifold, under the firewall, on the passenger side. You just have to reach waaaay back in there and feel around for it. On mine, that back one was the first one to go. It's tough to reach, but at least it's a cheap repair.

Here's what the part looks like. You can see how it's collapsed at the bend..



Good luck with it, hopefully that'll fix it right up.

 

Thanks for the reply. The pics are such a great help. I appreciate them so much and the info on how to fix the extended cab doors. That is why I love this forum. I would have been all day checking vacuum lines and I don't know if I would have seen that one.


Thing is I have had the truck for three days now. I know I have to change the brakes. On a used truck by now I would have jacked it up and have gone over everything underneath to check for any problems. Also would have gone over the engine as best I can. I usually change all the fluids also.


The truck runs great. Good mpg. I can't remember right of have hand. But what can you use to clean the maf sendor? I know they make stuff just for the sensor to clean. I remember having to use it on my Mom's car years ago. But isn't there I cheaper substitute?


Thanks,


brc


Again thanks for the pics and the good advice

 

Years ago, back before I found out about those rubber boots, I bought a can of the MAF sensor cleaner and tried it. It wasn't too hard to do, but it didn't fix anything. I still have some of that can left. I just let a friend use some of it a couple weeks ago too.

I read that you can use Q-D Electronics cleaner too, but I would still just buy the dedicated cleaner. iirc, it was less than ten bucks.

Around that time I also tried cleaning, and then replacing, the IAC. That didn't help anything either. In fact, the original one was much higher quality than the Napa replacement. I might've even put the original one back on, but it was years ago, I can't remember exactly.

I found out about those boots from someone online. Like I said, that back one is really hard to reach, but, as soon as I touched it I knew I found the problem. The outside of the bend was so soft, it felt like I could poke my finger right through it.

Good luck man, hope that's all it is!

 

I checked the rubber boots today. Looks like the previous owner had already replaced it. I found the old one with a large hole in it going through the cab today.

Tomorrow I was going to erase the code and see if it comes back on. If it does return my next thing would be to move on to the MAF sensor.

Thanks,

brc

 

Cheers brc, I hope you find something simple.

The only other thing I can think of for the vacuum, is the PCV valve and/or the grommet. I never had a problem with mine, but I read about others who replaced theirs and they said it did the trick.

Good luck!

Jim

 

Thanks I guess you were right to begin with. I erased the code with my ob2 scanner and the check engine light went off. So far it has stayed off. Hopefully the previous owner did the work for me.

 

Right on, glad to hear it

 

so truck when it has been ran about two hrs won' start got a p0320 code .any advice where to start

 

Hi, I am looking at an 02 4.2 5 speed with 90,000 miles on it. I am just kinda curious about your experience with your truck as far as reliability and fuel mileage. Thank you!

 

I really can't give you an answer on long term reliability on the 4.2 v6 because I have only had mine for about 2 months. It is an automatic extended cab and I but about 2,000 miles on it so it has roughly 159,000 miles on it. The motor, transmission, etc. hasn't let me down yet. It runs and shifts great.

On the fuel millage I cannot give you numbers. But looking at my gas gauge and traveling the same route as I did in my Ford Ranger. It is good on gas. Just depends on how heavy your foot is .

 

I am the original owner of my '98 F150 3 door extended cab with 235K on my 4.2l and never had any major problem with it. I had the starter and one leaf spring replaced shortly after getting it from the dealer. Other than that, I just had to replace a fuel injector at 235K (replaced them all since you have to take the intake plenum off), had to replace those rubber PCV fittings described earlier, a cam position sensor one year, another alternator another year, water pump last year, battery twice, and that's about it. Change my oil at every 3K. I have a standard and had to drop the tranny on my driveway one year in 105 degree heat to change the throw-out bearing and clutch around 170K and the clutch still looked pretty good! I have no regrets getting this truck 20 years ago.