I already posted a thread "6.0 tissues". My question here, because I can not find much information on the rear speed sensor malfunction code, is how does this relate to the engine going into "limp" mode? The egr grey codes that came up I'm sure are related to the egr not being plugged in. I pulled the valve and cleaned it. It looked fine(after cleaning in which it wasn't really gunked up too bad...nowhere near what I've seen them get like anyway) and the valve seemed fine. Tomorrow morn I'll pull the EBP and line to clean as well.
The engine was going limp almost immediately. I checked the continuity of the Vref and grounds to the system as a whole and found no problems. I get 4.97V on the Vref and 11.98V on the power line. When I unplugged the EOT I noticed abit of oil in the plug. I left it unplugged and ran the truck to see if I just had a bad EOT. The truck ran better but, I am just back to the original problem of it consistantly going limp after 5 min of running.
I got the ford scanning app and it doesnt see the grey codes but does see the C0300 that torque pro doesn't.
Sooo what would the rear speed sensor have in correlation with the engine going limp? Should it not just be affecting the tranny switching gears?
It does when it starts going limp.I start to loose throttle response and then when it finally gets upto about 2-2500 rpm it switches to 2nd gear. Afterwards it switches fine to 3rd but, this happens right before it goes 100% limp at the next stop I make or lack of throttle below 1500 rpm.Truck runs fine as long as rpm is above 1500 but once it drops below that( foot off pedal, comming to a stop, ect), it goes limp and I get nothing.Then I turn the truck off for atleast a min, and it runs fine for another 3-5min.
So yeah, how does the speed sensor come into play here?

 

Ok well new question. anybody have more info on the speed sensor malfunction?

 

The rear speed sensor on the rear differential is not an uncommon failure. They seem to get collect a fair amount of iron debris then go away soon after. With an intermittent fault sometimes just pulling them and wiping off the debris gets them working again. But most of the time they need to be replaced. The next often found issue back there is the wires dropping down from the chassis to the sensor breaks from fatigue, this seems to happen with high mileage trucks that after flip between light and heavy loads, but that can be conjecture.

The signal from the differential goes to the ABS controller where it’s interpreted, then the resulting speed reading is distributed to all other components, PCM, cluster, overhead mpg.....

Typically if you are having an issue with this sensor you get an ABS warning light, the speedometer fluctuates, and the cruse control stops working.