My dad and I have started a restoration on a 1972 f100 ranger for my first vehicle. We've restored a '66 custom cab before so we're pretty fimilar with the whole Process. One bit of trouble we have run into is how to seal the aluminum and to repaint the black ascents on the trim. (Will post examples at request) We've figured out a great way to polish it but we arent sure about how to get a sturdy coat of the black on it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

I have tried taping off the recesses where the black paint goes and it worked pretty well. I also have tried freehanding with a small brush with okay results too.

 

I'm curious as to your polishing process? Care to elaborate? Cleaning up my trim isn't really working like I want.

If I had the $$$ to do my truck, I'd leave the trim off, (the ones I could anyway) plug the holes and have the trim airbrushed on. I've seen some trim/emblem airbrushing here (on cars) at our car show that knocked my socks off. You literally had to get up close & touch it to see if was real or not.

Dan

 

I initially use sos type pads; the steel wool ones with soap built in. These really clean them up. Afterward I use a cheap harbor freight buffer to put a shine to them.

 

tapping off then spray a light coat of self etching primer (available in spray can and quart for gun) let that dry about 15 minutes then spray semi gloss black .
I personally don't like coating polished aluminum as it seems to fade any ways ., so coating just makes it hard to repolish later

 

Painting on polished aluminum; First mask off area NOT to be painted. Use a good painters tape. Second, clean area to be painted with alcohol. Third sand area to be painted. Fourth; clean area again with alcohol. Inspect carefully, sand any areas that you might have missed. Clean again with alcohol. Now use a good etching primer 2-3 light coats then paint.
Sometimes you have to mask area a second time repeating the process as paint may lift when removing tape. Practice, practice, practice!!!
Keep in mind that not just anybody can walk into a body shop and asked to be hired as a painter because you read something or you watched a youtube video. It doesn't work that way. Just like removing dents, your not a body man this takes time and patience. Aluminum is not as forgiving as steel.
When people ask me," How do I remove dents?" I generally don't respond. It takes time lots of time.
Last time I tried to help someone remove dents from a grille I got into a heated argument about the proper way to do it. (Keep in mind, I've been restoring grilles and aluminum pieces for 13 years now, I think I know what I'm talking about.) This person went to the Forum (A different one) and read where your suppose to use wood because the aluminum is soft.
REALLY??? That's a crock..... You need smaller hammers and a very soft touch. As I said before PATIENCE!!! PRACTICE!!!! IT'S NOT AS EASY AS IT APPEARS.

 

I'm sure it's a dying art and like a lot of crafts there is no easy way to learn other than years and decades of experience. I appreciate your tips. I've got three 67 grills, some in very good shape, one will be a sacrificial training tool.

 

Well MPH. As I recall you really like to take things back to stock. And look good being that way. If after playing with your sacrificial lamb and you don't get the results you want, you may consider talking to Robert about one of his grilles. I have a sneaky suspicion your rig is going to deserve one.
Just my $.02.

 

Howdy! So sorry i forgot about my post. The process I used was using 600 grit wet sand paper and working my was up to 2000 grit before using mothers chrome polish and a polishing wheel. that works great and gets the stuff looking new. it is kinda time consuming (but what ins't on an old Ford?) but it shines about as well as a new stainless steal piece.

 

Thanks Ryan for getting back to us. It still sounds like a very time consuming job. What kind of polishing wheel do you use? Are you talking a 8" one, like used for waxing? Or a Dremel sized one?

 

We use a kind of middle ground and dremel size. We have a 6 inch buffer from harbor freight that we use for most of them and the dremel polishing wheel for whatever needs it. The biggst top I can give is work up slowly as far as grit, and make sure to work it to that grit to get it looking the best.