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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1972 mild build 390 suggestions;

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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 06:11 PM
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1972 mild build 390 suggestions;

OK, let me start off by stating, I am not the owner of this Truck, but more mechanically inclined than my friend who does own this truck.

This is a truck that might be driven 5,000 miles per year. He purchased this truck because it reminded him of his childhood and his Dad

had a 69 F250, so he purchased a 72 F250. The motor is a bit tired and could use a rebuild. I look on the net all I can see our race motor

builds and crate motors. I think that having an engine builder do the job is the best course, especially if he has some experience with

the weaknesses of the FE motor. I once had a 72 F250 w/ a 360 and hated the power, loved the look of the truck, just hated the power.

I suggested if he were go down the path of getting a 67 - 72 fleet side that getting the 390 was what he should get and he did.

I have searched quite a few threads, so I am hoping I am not beating a dead horse with similar questions.

About the only thing I would change from stock, would be to increase the compression to 9:1, pointless ignition and change the cam. He has

the typical 2 barrel intake w/ a Holley 500 currently on it and manual choke set up. I would think that standard cast pistons are fine and from what

I have read, it appears the factory retarded the camshaft, so it is a benefit by changing that out. This is not a race motor, but an engine he will want

it to last probably 150,000 miles. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it.

BTW, does anyone have a good suggestion for an FE, or good engine builder in Northern California ?

Many Thanks in Advance !!!

Michael
 
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 06:17 PM
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Read this:

Ford 390 FE - Hot Rod Network


Engine builder & machinist? Joe's Engine Shop - Performance Street Engines
 
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 06:24 PM
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Hi HIO Silver,

Yes, read that article, nice read, again, not a race motor, he just wants to do light duty hauling of hay,

Oh ya, forgot to mention, it has stock manifolds with dual exhaust with no H pipe tie in, thought I would

recommend a set of headers as well. From what I have read the stock exhaust manifolds are choked up

quite a bit and the H pipe mod is a must.

Michael
 
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 11:16 PM
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For ease, Sanderson 3/4-length headers are the ticket. Get 'em ceramic coated. They are worth every penny. Dual exhaust is a must so 2.5 inch, mandrel bent tubing is your spec.

In terms of that article, it just outlines a basis the recipe for bigger power. FE heads are the constriction, for a low buck build gasket-match the heads and intake... not hog'em out... just clean them up. A cam will wake up an FE...consider Edelbrock's FE cam kit depending on the chosen 4v intake.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2018 | 06:38 AM
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The only headers I ever installer were a set of cheap long tube Cyclones on a 360 many years ago. Just that modification really woke the old girl up. It went from struggling to do 85 to being able to go past 100 pretty easy and mileage went up about 1 1/2 mpg. But they were high maintenance and cooked starters.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2018 | 11:50 AM
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I would want to maintain or increase the bottom end torque, so not worried about the 4bbl, or intake manifold

even knowing the stocker is a boat anchor. This a somewhat of a budget build, so am I headed in the right

direction of "must have" improvements ???

1) Increase compression to 8.:8 to 9.0:1
2) Tie in H pipe for the dual exhaust
3) Change camshaft for pulling power
4) Headers
5) Pointless Distributor

Any "must have" modifications to the motor, i.e. oil gallery increase, hd oil pump etc...

Thanks Michael !!!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2018 | 06:39 PM
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Ask on the FE forum further down. Lots of help there
 
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Old Feb 6, 2018 | 06:42 PM
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Thanks John, did not know there was FE Forum.

Michael
 
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Old Feb 7, 2018 | 09:15 PM
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One huge thing is to see if the heads have hardened exhaust seats. If it doesn't have hardened seats they have to be done if you want it to last longer than 50K miles.

Beyond that an RV cam a slight bump in compression, an aluminum intake and a good 600cfm carb and you should be good to go. A set of Sanderson Headers will make the starter live but are very pricey. A set of regular headers and heat wrap your starter can achieve the similar results at a lower cost.
 
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