(NO, THIS IS NOT A DIESEL TRUCK)

Setup: Truck is running perfectly at 158,000 miles. No previous failures of anything, ALL maintenance is up to date. 8.5 size cabover camper is mounted on truck.

Worry: Fuel pump failure. Had it on other vehicles. Just sit there. Don't want it to happen with this truck. Intending to boondock camp several times a year, miles away from anywhere Truck has only one fuel tank... about 38 gallons. NOT intending to install an auxiliary fuel tank system.

Question 1: Need identity/brand name recommendation for "cost effective" Android OBD bluetooth unit AND matching Android software THAT WILL HONESTLY SHOW FUEL PRESSURE.
Subquestion 1: In the event of actual fuel pump failure, would that actually give any kind of reliable early warning? Or would it just show a quick pressure drop to zero??

Question 2: Will the 2003 Ford F-250 gasser OBD computer even provide a fuel pressure monitor continuous readout, or was that even included in that year's OBD specification/capability?

sldkjflwdkfj

Here is a slightly different non-OBD approach regarding the boondock worry, as discussed a few weeks ago with an "internet answerman" ...also good food for thought:

Scenario. What if. Fuel pump failure in 2003 F-250 5.4 gas. Stuck out in the boondocks.

Is it a good idea to add an aftermarket external fuel pump, bolt to the truck frame, between fuel filter and the engine, to suck fuel up through the failed in-tank pump and supply the engine with the needed 30-40 psi of gasoline?

In addition to a dashboard mounted on-off switch for this aux pump, I'd include a "fuel selector valve" next to the aux pump, so that I could crawl under the truck, reach up to the frame-mounted selector valve, and choose the aux pump if it is ever needed.

The idea for this aux setup would be to be able to drive the truck (whatever the distance) to a repair shop or my mechanic to get the stock in-tank fuel pump replaced.

Note: Only the single, stock, gas tank is on this truck.
#####

Have you ever replaced the fuel pump, or is this the original?

No. Original fuel pump. No problems to date. 158,000 miles.

Are you fixing your F250 yourself? What have you tried so far?

I do nothing major. But have an extremely smart mechanic.

#####
Answerman:
There are three problems with what you want to do.
First, most frame mounted pumps will not create the pressure you need, 30 psi min, 50 max. The fuel pressure regulator will not let you over pressurize the fuel rail, so...
If you can get a pump that will create 50 psi then it may work.
The second problem is will the external pump pull fuel through the stock pump? Most often it will not.
Third problem, how to split the line and not damage it?
The fuel line cannot be just a hose with a screw clamp on it. The system is under high pressure and a hose clamp will not hold the hose to the fuel line well enough not to blow off.
You would have to use compression fittings.
So with all the negatives I would have to say this would not be a good idea.
If done incorrectly it could cause a fire, and it is not very likely that an external pump will pull fuel through the in-tank pump.

 

if you are "That" concerned... just replace the fuel pump.

also replace the battery... fuel pump relay...
water pump.... alternator...all belts and idlers...

what about rusted brake lines... stuck calipers...

and the list just goes ON and ON and ON....

or enjoy your adventure.. and stop overthinking problems that have not appeared.
carry a cell phone.. and a list of friends... and local repair shops...

between motorcycle and car/trucks LONG TRIPS... 600,000 miles over 50 years... 1 real break down..
and it was a driveshaft spline failure..

 

There is no sensor that reads and reports fuel pressure to the computer so there is no way to monitor it via the obd port. I would agree you overthinking it either drop the tank and replace the pump. I don’t think a frame mounted six pump is a realistic possibility. If your not doing the work yourself it should be that big of a deal for a comment mechanic to drop the tank with the truck on a lift and replace the tank. If you decide to have this done run the tank way down before dropping it off so they don’t have to pump out a bunch of fuel.

 

No obd reported fuel pressure.
You can install an actual pressure sensor and run a gauge.
Or always carry a spare pump and enough tools to fix it.
Or just wing it. Bring enough water and food and let someone know where you go. Invest in a SPOT that sends your location. all set.

 

My 2000 has 250,000 miles on it. And fuel pump has never been replaced.....

that may give you some peace of mind..

 

I agree. We too boondock camp a lot and have thought of the failures that "could" happen. This will make you go crazy! I always make sure I have a few extra parts. (plugs, coils, filters, fluids etc.) and tools. Do your best to maintain your truck well. Be prepared with tools and parts within reason, and go have fun! Don't let the hypothetical break down ruin a camping trip!

 

I just replaced the fuel pump in my sending unit on Saturday. In my research, I found the original design life expectancy of these pumps was supposed to be 100,000 miles/7-10 years. Mine had 229,850 miles in 16 years and was still working, but at times would not start when the key was turned on. (The fuel pump is supposed to run for about two seconds each time the key is turned on.) Bumping the key off and on would eventually get it to work, but the failure was increasing in frequency and the number of bumps it took to get it running was increasing. Due to the fact that mine had already well outlived its design life I just changed it.

These symptoms to be somewhat typical of a failing pump on our trucks, although a sudden complete failure is possible.

My truck is starting better and appears to be running better with a slight improvement in gas mileage, (observing the gauge, I haven't checked actual MPG's yet) which I would interpret as the result of better atomization due to higher fuel pressure. I did not measure fuel rail pressure before or after the replacement. I did not have any symptoms of the impending failure until about 227,000 miles.

 

Excellent points and suggestions, each and every post all of the above...

Yes, I have done everything possible to bring/keep this 1 1/2 year old truck (to me, that is) on the factory maintenance schedule and have repaired or replaced a number of common sense items. Failed to solve one minor issue to date, however: Auto retract of shoulder harness on driver's side... I'm manually managing harness dangle on exit. Decided to make some instrumentation improvements... added two inexpensive eBay digital voltmeters to the dash, in cahoots with a "solid state" battery isolator with 8 gauge West Marine cable (read 40 amp) and connectors hard wired to camper battery. (yes, properly "breakered" and "fused".) (All of the above hard wired, no plugs or sockets.) Results are beautiful: 1. Digital readout of Truck battery voltage. 2. Digital Readout of camper battery voltage. 3. Camper battery will never pull down Truck battery (so truck will always start). 4. If camper battery has or is running down, just hit remote starter** button on the Truck Key Fob (in my pocket or on a hook in the camper), the truck engine starts right up, and starts charging the camper battery.

**Oh, the frivolous aftermarket ways of (the previous) wealthy truck owner.

Taking a cue or clue, from "geekwithoutacause" and "SDSC4X4", I'll look into a stand-alone fuel pressure gauge with an electrical sender. Because, other than just adding another Okie charmer readout to the instrument panel, I'm thinking this would be in some cases useful in narrowing down some future problem into what it might or might not be.

I can still remember sitting in the truck cab this last summer on a dirt road going
up 2800 feet higher in elevation, fully loaded, to the top of a "local" mountain in 108 degree heat, with the engine gauges and transmission temps holding rock solid steady same as they were the the bottom of the hill, and with A/C on and blowing cold. This suggests that my F-250 was "over-engineered" with lots latitude to handle any conditions.

When I purchased the truck from the original owner, I asked, "What oil are you using? He replied, "20-50." I said, "Oh? How long have you been doing that?" He said, "Since Day 1."

Newbie that I am with the 5.4, I do remember reading somewhere the an electrical sender can be installed at a point on the "fuel rail" ...I would like to investigate -- and hereby solicit any advice as to best way to go about this.... along with any suggestions for brand names and sources for a gauge and sender. Subject is slightly confusing for me because of the mix of gas and diesel advice from elsewhere on the net spinning through my head, and, the worry that if I purchase and/or try to install gear on my truck based on what I think I read, I may run into problems because I accidentally followed a path of diesel advice or methodology that doesn't apply to the 5.4 gasoline engine.

 

I did not check the fuel rail pressure or do a voltage drop test at the pump on my truck as I was satisfied with the diagnosis and was going to change the pump anyway if I lowered the tank due to my years and mileage. (Dropping the tank is pretty much required to do a voltage drop test at the motor connector--why bother?)

Installing an electric fuel pressure sender and gauge should give you peace of mind on the issue. The connection point is a Schroeder valve on the passenger side fuel rail. I would shop carefully to make sure what you buy is tested and approved for your under hood environment, you don't want to build in a potential gasoline leak with some China-cheapo part! I would be interested in what you find, although I may be getting "gauged out" of my cab soon. Keep us posted! You might look at some of the sites that sell/install/service high performance superchargers for competition vehicles.

As for "over-engineered"? Maybe... Or at least it seems that way in comparison to some of the competition.

 

Looks like ISSPRO Mfr Part #: R17077 may be what I am looking for: (a) 0-60 psi, (b) electrical (c) kit includes gauge, sender, and most items required for installation. Also recommended is a "snubber"
Mfr Part #: FTG-SNB125-10 to smooth fuel pressure spikes. (Thank you Diesel Manor!) Not sure about sensor mounting, though... Sharader valve position on 5.4 fuel rail would put sensor in a vertical position, conflicting with some existing rubber tubes above the engine, so will talk to my mechanical about the possibility of using a right angle fitting to mount the sensor parallel to the fuel rail, and possibly use a bracket or hose clamp to secure the sensor against the fuel rail to avoid any shock or vibration, or contact with rubber tubes. Wouldn't want the sensor to break off !

 

Thanks for sharing the info on the gauge. It looks like a winner! I think if I installed this setup I would look into finding a braided steel fuel line that would allow me to mount the sensor on the firewall or possibly the bracket that holds the IAC valve which would isolate it somewhat from engine vibration and heat. The trick would be finding one with the right connectors and being sure the connections would not come loose. The flexibility of the line might also reduce some of the stress on the Schrader valve tee on the fuel rail that the weight of the sensor would impose.

 

Think I have it mapped out... there is a bracket already in place attached to the 5.4 intake manifold, that holds the (passenger side) fuel rail. I could probably create a "me too" bracket for the sensor and attach it to the same stud, holding the sensor in a secure horizontal position in conjunction with a right angle fitting off the fuel rail Schrader valve. If successfully installed, the only other thing I should need in addition to the the aforementioned kit from Diesel Manor would be a shell and mounting leg for the fuel pressure gauge... most likely to be installed off the bottom of the grab handle on the driver's side windshield pillar. However, after topping off the gas tank at the service station yesterday, I noticed that the stock empty-full fuel gauge in the factory instrument cluster still reads 3/4 tank full. (This is new, never happened before.) This tells me that the in-tank sender has probably failed... so my $$ should, at this point, be better spent on replacing the in-tank fuel level sender AND the fuel pump at the same time. Thank you everyone for all the help and comments... installing the vanity fuel pressure gauge I still think is a great idea, but I'll put off doing this project until l-a-t-e-r.

 

My fuel gauge has never (that I can remember) shown a full tank if I leave the key on and watched it fill, but as soon as I cycle the key off-on, it shows full and operates normally. If it doesn't seem to work after cycling the key, I would suggest replacing the complete "sending unit" and not just the pump in the sending unit as I did.

I also suggest checking some threads on the window pillar gauge mounts. A couple of people have complained about a loss of visibility--just something to be aware of before you spend the $. Check out Autometer's site for mounting options. They seem to have the most options.... Good luck!