F350 6.7L won't crank
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Newport Oh.
F350 6.7L won't crank
I have a 2011 F350 6.7L and can't get the engine to crank over. It all started when the engine quit three times on me. (luckily on my farm property) All three times only when it sat for awhile would it crank again and run for a short time then quit again. I ran a scanner on it found out the nox sensor on the exhaust was bad. So I got a new sensor, installed it and now it won't even crank. It does have power to everything,the batteries have full charge and shows no codes on the scanner. The only thing is it shows is trailer brake fault and a occasional beeping oil sign on the dash. Does something need reset? I am now in the process of checking grounds and connections around the fuse box. Any ideas what could be the issue here?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Newport Oh.
Thanks for all the input so far. I'm taking a break now in my semi truck reading this, but when i get home tonight I'll do more investigation. Last night i unhooked the batteries and removed the drivers side battery tray to get a good look at the fuse box and all the connections in there. I plan on pulling the fuse box out as it looks a little corroded on the main power input. Hopefully i don't break anything! I don't think it is hydrolocking. Just something is not letting power to the starter. The guys at work have a high tech computer that i can use to get more info than my scanner does so i may use it. Any other info is greatly appreciated. I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,379
Likes: 1,863
From: Frederick, MD
have both sets of keys with you. You did not mention anti theft issues but one never knows.
I too am wondering if it is hydro locked.
How are all the fluid levels, what is coming out the tail pipe and does it smell different?
I too am wondering if it is hydro locked.
How are all the fluid levels, what is coming out the tail pipe and does it smell different?
Trending Topics
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 31
From: Idaho
Hydro Locked
Why are you thinking hydro lock. Maybe I missed something. Not in the common issues which this could be.
I guess I would start by checking for hyrolock.
I would check the sensor again? Maybe try putting back the old sensor.
Have checked the oil? What does it look like. Should be BLACK
I want to know what you find Good LUCK.
I guess I would start by checking for hyrolock.
I would check the sensor again? Maybe try putting back the old sensor.
Have checked the oil? What does it look like. Should be BLACK
I want to know what you find Good LUCK.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Newport Oh.
I went through the fuse box under the hood, checked the connections around it and checked all fuses. There was one 30a blown but that is for a aux. power point. I then installed the batt. tray, hooked the batteries back up (which have been unhooked 1 day) and tried it. Nothing happened. Then took the nice scanner I got from our shop, hooked it up but it could not connect with the truck computer because it only reads up to the 2009 models. Mine is 2011. Then I got underneath the truck and checked all grounds and wires to the starter. All looked good. All fluids are where they should be. I probably should let you all know that this was a delivery truck for the rental company that I work for and has had a used engine with 60k put in it. The truck now has a total of 185k on it. It ran real good and strong until it quit on me. It has a industrial flatbed on it and is quite a workhorse. I think my next move will be to pull the starter and have a look. What do you all think?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
When you say "nothing happened" as you attempted to start the engine after you reconnected the batteries, what do you mean? Did you hear any relays click? Did the starter click, as though it was trying to spin a locked up engine? Or did it simply just click as though it didn't have enough cranking power to spin the engine? Do the instrument cluster warning indicators illuminate when the key is turned to the RUN position? Sorry for more questions than answers but there are many things that could cause these trucks to fail to start. Do you have access to an ohm meter? What do you get for a reading, if you connect the ohm meter leads between pins #6 and #14 of the data link connector (the OBD II connector)? You should get either 60 ohms or 120 ohms. A 60 ohm reading would indicate all modules are online. A 120 ohm reading would indicate a module (or modules) is offline. This is why I suggested a network test in my above post.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,379
Likes: 1,863
From: Frederick, MD
You could also try putting it in the engineering mode and see what you get
Read this on how to do it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...test-mode.html
Read this on how to do it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...test-mode.html
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Newport Oh.
Thanks m-chan68 for your reply. I guess I should have explained better what took place. When the ign. switch is turned on all warning lights in dash come on as they should to test them, but then after a short time the trailer brake module fault comes up as well as the oil " container" sign with three short beeps. Could this be a faulty oil sensor somewhere? Then when turned to start there is still power to the dash but #49 relay in the pass. side fuse box clicks. It acts like something is not letting current get to the solenoid on the starter to activate it. Today I will see if someone at work has some better diagnostic tools to work with. Thanks for all your help.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 31
From: Idaho
maybe
My 09 trailer brake module failure and would not start. That was a long time ago. Check the connectors, I think the dealer said I had MUD in the back connector by the hitch. Sorry this was long ago. Good Luck