I am thinking of installing a Pertronix 1282 in my 312 v8 55 f100. The tech guy at Pertonix said I dont have to pull the distributor for install. I think the install would be easier if I took the distributor out. What do you all think? Also I have read posts about a resistor wire I dont understand this. There are various posts and they seem to contradict each other.

Thanks

Jerry

 

I believe it is a straight forward install and not much different than changing points. I'd see what happens before the resistor wire, also is yours 12v or still 6v?

 

Depends how comfortable you are pulling and reinstalling a distributor. Not a major deal but it can be tricky at first.

The resistor wire is mainly to protect points in a 12 volt system, it drops the voltage (current is the main thing) so they don't burn up. Modern ignition coils will be able to provide a hotter spark when necessary with full battery voltage. The contradictory advice is due to the fact some want to use a Pertronix coil with their points, or the Ignitor with original coil, etc. Bypass any resistor and run full voltage to an Ignitor when you can. Use a coil with at least 1.5 ohms primary resistance and you're golden.

 

switched to 12 volt system. The tech person said the install was just like changing points also.

Jerry

 

I'm not sure about THESE motors but I've heard that the oil pump drive shaft seems more likely to drop out on the ford motors.

 

It's pretty straightforward, except that on Y blocks the distributor is at the back of the engine, a pain in the *** to get to, unless you're a contortionist. You may want to pull the distributor to check the innards for crud and make sure the advance plate is moving freely etc and just clean things up generally maybe. Maybe install lighter springs, and limit the mechanical advance...

.030" air gap from the magnet to the ignitor. They include a plastic shim, or a feeler gauge will work. Make sure cap, rotor, and wires are in good shape. When running full battery voltage to the ignition coil the secondary or high tension voltage is also increased and this will expose any weakness in those old school point system components. I use dielectric grease in the plug and cap boots. Check for arcing to ground in a dark garage or at night, this will be noticeable as a stumble at idle too.

 

Make sure that you use an Ignitor coil with the Flamethrower then you don't need to worry about the resistor wire. Just run straight 12v to the coil. I pulled my distributor to install my Ignitor so I could clean it up and check it over. It turned out I needed a vacuum advance also. Yes, all that can be done with the distributor in the vehicle, but I think you can do a better job with it out. Just make sure that you mark with chalk or a crayon where the rotor points when you remove it so you can get it back in correctly. Then make sure that you don't turn the engine until you get the distributor back in.

 

Jerry,
I sort of breezed through this but hopefully I didn't miss the info I'm providing. I wouldn't mess with the 1282. Why? Petronix has the 71282 Igniter III series now; hotter and no air gap to worry about. It has just holes; screw it in and Fa get about it.
Now there's another issue that no one has mentioned (I don't think). You need to make sure you have a 56 and earlier distributor. I had a 56 truck with the original 272. So I ordered the 71282. I couldn't for the life of me get it installed. Come to find out I did have a 56 272 but some one had already installed a 57-64 distributor which calls for the 1281 or 71281 in the Ignitor III series. If you have both centrifugal & vacuum advance it's a latter model distributor. And the preferred distributor for a YBlock. Luckily they exchanged my 71282 so I wasn't out any $$$.
If you have the earlier distributor and want the newer model most of the auto parts stores can get rebuilts for around $75. Just ask for a 64 F-100 292 distributor. Most come with cap, rotor, points and condenser installed. So if you want you could install the Petronix module in the rebuilt distributor before you install it.
Like mentioned before get the Flamethrower coil to match the Module you buy.

 

Honestly, I don't like any of the Pertronix. Yes, they are a huge improvement over points. But the series II uses little magnets to trigger each plug, and the series III reads the cam lobes. How accurate are either of those? Good enough, apparently, but compared to an OEM system or a copy of OEM, they aren't reaching the full potential of an electronic system. The OEM's and MSD (and some others) use a paddle wheel that gives a precise, uniform signal for each cylinder. Especially compared to reading the cam lobes, that are now 60 years old and worn from points, on a shaft with play in it, I think I'd look at what else is out there. There are a lot of people adapting the GM system to old distributors (complete with mechanical and vacuum advance).

 

The problem with the GM distributor is that it is larger and getting a wrench in to loosen or tighten the distributor hold down bolt is difficult to say the least even with the GM special tool that works so well on Corvettes.

Normally I agree with you, Ross, on a lot of things but, sorry, in this case I think the digital Pertronix is far more accurate and reliable than point/condenser system. The Hall effect sensor has been used since the 1970s on most vehicles and is now extremely accurate and reliable. You certainly don't have to worry about point bounce at higher RPM.

As for worn distributor cam lobes or shaft wouldn't that have a negative effect on old points and condensors also?

 

A lot of people complain about that (on flatheads, I kind of doubt it's an issue on Y-blocks). If you are going to bump secondary voltage up to 45k-50kV, is a cap designed for 25k appropriate? The reason the caps are so large is to prevent arcing between posts. edit Note that many GM conversions use the small-cap version to avoid this issue.

I agree totally, but you're comparing it to 1920's technology. Not a very high bar.

It's as accurate as the "sensor" triggering it. How accurately are the magnets placed on a series II? I'd love to see someone put one in a distributor machine and find out. Cam lobes don't have a nice, crisp edge for the Hall effect on a series III to get a clean, consistent signal. They work, but what I'm saying is, you can do better. And if you convert a Loadamatic distributor to Pertronix, you still have a Loadamatic. Why not go all the way?

No question, it would give different timing on every cylinder. If you slap on a Pertronix, it will still do that.

My point on all this is, Pertronix are good, but there are alternatives that are better, and not a lot more money.

 

Absolutely, this is one reason why Pertronix are so popular. A clapped out distributor makes setting points an exercise in futility because the running clearances and sideplay and endplay etc are way out of spec. So the owner installs a Pertronix and it immediately runs great, and points get a bad rep. A good tight distributor with quality points and condenser, there shouldn't be much difference in performance. Even if a module is used to replace the points, a rebuilt distributor will result in much smoother operation from idle to wide open throttle and everything in between.

 

I put a pertronix in my 55 Fairlane with 6v system in 2000. Still runs great and no points or condenser to change. I say do not remove the distributer. Just take the cap off and remove the condenser, points and plate. Then install your pertronics unit. Put the cap back on and start the truck. It should run great. If you remove the distributor and then put the Petronix unit on and put the distributor back in, and the truck won't start what is the problem? Pertronix or distributer? Jag

 

Great point

 

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