1989 F250 pre purchase inspection
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 910
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon, OR
1989 F250 pre purchase inspection
Going to look at a 1989 F250 Ext cab 4wd, 460 auto to purchase tomorrow. Any big things that would make it a no go that I should look for. Owner is claiming some repairs to fuel lines, replaced fuel pump and alternator recently. Says it runs good w/new tires.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,182
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere n North America
As far as the engine goes, it’s an EFI.
Upon cold startup, it should start right up. Idle @ about 1500-1800 rpm for about 15-30 seconds, then slowly drop down to about 1000 rpm over 15-30 seconds. Then drop to 650 rpm after 2 minutes, when she is warmed up.
If it does not do this, then plan on spending $3-500.00 getting it right, if possible.
Upon cold startup, it should start right up. Idle @ about 1500-1800 rpm for about 15-30 seconds, then slowly drop down to about 1000 rpm over 15-30 seconds. Then drop to 650 rpm after 2 minutes, when she is warmed up.
If it does not do this, then plan on spending $3-500.00 getting it right, if possible.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,182
Likes: 15
From: Somewhere n North America
Does the truck have 1 or 2 gas tanks? (Switch between front and rear tank.)
If 2, then test drive utilizing both tanks for a while. If there is an issue with either tank, it will show up almost immediately. Take each tank through the same routine; high speed interstate run & up and down hills.
Check that the gages are working for both tanks.
If one of the tanks causes the engine to quit, or run rough, or lose power, then plan on spending $3-500.00 to resolve.
If 2, then test drive utilizing both tanks for a while. If there is an issue with either tank, it will show up almost immediately. Take each tank through the same routine; high speed interstate run & up and down hills.
Check that the gages are working for both tanks.
If one of the tanks causes the engine to quit, or run rough, or lose power, then plan on spending $3-500.00 to resolve.
Last edited by vjsimone; Jun 4, 2017 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Adding Text
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 610
Likes: 8
Also as far as rust goes, check the top of the rear wheel wells and the lower rear corners of the bedsides (if the truck is supposed to be rust-free). My truck was rust free, except for those two sections. They were also bondo'ed over and paint blended on mine, so check the insides of the bottom rear bedside corners and at least have a close look at the top of the wheel wells.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 910
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon, OR
Thanks guys! Has some rust issues, but runs great. The tanks work great and the po installed a brand new selector valve. Had a recent motor and trans transplant with paperwork. Decided for the price it was a great deal considering it's going to be a shop rig.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
santeeford
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Nov 10, 2023 05:51 PM
bamaford85
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Dec 16, 2013 10:11 PM
LiNkZoR
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
20
Sep 4, 2013 10:34 PM
KSTTAC
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
4
Apr 1, 2007 07:27 PM
