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Hey all,
im posting this as I couldn't really find a good answer already previously posted and hoping somebody might have a solution to my problem. I got a 2015 f250 that just crossed over 80K miles. I have seen in previous threads that the factory primary radiators are prone to fail which mine did at about 70k miles. I decided to forgo having a factory one put back in and decided to go with a mishimoto with the impression that it was better quality and would hold up betterthan stock one. So had a local diesel shop do the install and went on my way. Well about 4K miles after the mishimoto rad was installed, it cracked as well. Had the same shop look at it and they said it cracked at one of the welds and was manufacturer defect. Contacted mish and they were pretty easy to deal with lifetime warranty and had a new one sent no problem. Diesel shop put new one in (now 3rd one) and I went on my way. Well just got home from running around today and low and behold I got another coolant leak coming from my primary. Ive sunk about $2,000 into rads now and pretty pissed off at this point with no real idea what I should do or why this is happening. I don't take it off road, most of its miles are running for work which is 4 hour a day drive unloaded, and haul on weekends but only really in the fall. Only mods on the truck is the rad and s & b filter. Does anyone have ideas why I can't get a radiator to last longer than an oil change?...Is the regens to much to handle for the aftermarket rad?( doesn't make any sense but idk) or is it the shop messing up the install? Or mishimoto is just a crappy manufacturer?(which also doesn't really make sense) about the only thing I can think to do is get another replacement from mishimoto and get somewhere else to put it in but if that one breaks too then I'm screwed. any help/solutions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the video, took a look and was pretty good... but basically it sounds like there's really nothing you can do but keep throwing radiators in them if the frame flexing is the culprit..? I live in wv and if you never been here most of our roads are terrible so I can see that. What I don't understand is why the plastic stock one made it 70K miles before busting but 2 high grade aluminum ones can't make it 8K..?
It's possible, I guess, the plastic may have a little more give to it before becoming stressed. You stated the first replacement gave at a weld. That sounds like a combo of metal crystallization and fatigue. The weakest part of a good weld is the immediately adjacent metal.
I haven't had this problem but from reading, I wonder if replacing the rubber mounts with something a lot softer would help. At least on the one closest to the point of failure. Fatigue will be a bigger problem in the aluminum version than plastic.
Actually even though they look OK there not trust me at about 80,000 miles their moving causing excessive flexing in the radiator there fairly cheap and easy to replace do it yourself and then have a new radiator putt in you'll go another 80,000 miles hopefully take care
I was trying to explain change the front cab isolators my 2009 F 350 gas engine did the same thing from plowing and driving into job sites broke two radiators it's not just a diesel problem. If you watch the video they find their the culprit Beyond just the frame flexing take care
I was trying to explain change the front cab isolators my 2009 F 350 gas engine did the same thing from plowing and driving into job sites broke two radiators it's not just a diesel problem. If you watch the video they find their the culprit Beyond just the frame flexing take care
okay I understand what your saying. Thanks for your input I'm going do that especially if their cheap and easy no reason not too. I'll update after that's all taken care of and hopefully good as new
It's at advance Auto, it's a carquest radiator listed for $505.00 and you can get 20%off your order brings it to the 400.00 , it's worth a try considering the problems with factory and mishomoto ones
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