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Has anyone done this?
I have replaced factory housings with some spyder projectors, which permit a low and a high bulb bra the factory dual filament bulb.
I want my lows to remain on when brights come on, rather than brights grounding out my lows.
Looking for something similar to flash to pass but fogs would still die.
Only thing I can conclude would be removing headlights from headlight position on switch and moving to park light position to preven grounding of headlights??
(Park lights aren't killed by high beams)
Easiest way to do this is to use the so called "Bambi Mod". Here's a vid to describe the process though this guy is doing it for his fog lights/high beams.
I'm not sure if the fuse would handle both the highs and lows at the same time. But if you're so inclined...an easy way is to tie the coil of a 12v relay to the high beam circuit and use the contacts to power the low beams. This way the lows will operate normal and will also come on when the highs are powered. If you use a relay socket you can pull out the relays to be able to go through inspection and have it all work correctly..
Easiest way to do this is to use the so called "Bambi Mod". Here's a vid to describe the process though this guy is doing it for his fog lights/high beams.
I'm not sure if the fuse would handle both the highs and lows at the same time. But if you're so inclined...an easy way is to tie the coil of a 12v relay to the high beam circuit and use the contacts to power the low beams. This way the lows will operate normal and will also come on when the highs are powered. If you use a relay socket you can pull out the relays to be able to go through inspection and have it all work correctly..
F2p works fine, so I would assume it has the juice to do it with the fuse...
I would of course need a schematic to figure out the relays... however...
Correct me if I am wrong...
Technically, couldn't I take the high beam wire and tap that in to my f2p wire?
Technically, couldn't I take the high beam wire and tap that in to my f2p wire?
If by f2p you're referencing the fog and parking circuits then I would think no. The reason is because whenever the parking lights are on the power would backfeed into the high beam circuit and turn those on.
If by f2p you're referencing the fog and parking circuits then I would think no. The reason is because whenever the parking lights are on the power would backfeed into the high beam circuit and turn those on.
Here is your headlight diagram.
By f2p I mean flash to pass...
Flash to pass as in pulling back on blinker stick to enable both highs and lows
By f2p I mean flash to pass...
Flash to pass as in pulling back on blinker stick to enable both highs and lows
Same backfeed issue there. Turning on the low beams will backfeed the high beams. That would mean when in hi or low both the high and low beams would always be on.
Yes, only because the relay will isolate the two circuits from each other. Technically you could do the same thing with a high powered diode instead of using a relay, but it's bit more costly.
Here is a sample of a diode to use. For the inputs the high beam circuit goes to one and the low beam circuit to the other. The output would go to the low beam bulb. They don't list the amps it can handle, that's the reason for my it's "a sample diode" disclaimer.
Yes, only because the relay will isolate the two circuits from each other. Technically you could do the same thing with a high powered diode instead of using a relay, but it's bit more costly.
Here is a sample of a diode to use. For the inputs the high beam circuit goes to one and the low beam circuit to the other. The output would go to the low beam bulb. They don't list the amps it can handle, that's the reason for my it's "a sample diode" disclaimer.
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