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My '15 F-350 w/ 6.7 has gotten it's scheduled oil changes on time. Some done by me some by FORD when on the road traveling. Always with non-synthetic . I'm due again and have gotten some Rotella T-6 synthetic for this up-coming change.
What are the most recent thoughts on extended intervals using synthetics ???
My former driver was a Dodge 3500 w/ Cummins 5.9. I did all the changes myself and used Amsoil synthetic and kept to a 10k interval. Just not sure what the best trac to follow with the FORD.
I have for about 15 years gone 10-15K on my gasoline cars using full synthetic. Never a problem.
I am new to diesels but I decided to go with 5K intervals on my 6.7 using 10W-30 Delo blend. I do not know if that is better than the 7.5K interval recommended by Ford, or if I could go 10K. My dealer STRONGLY recommends 5K intervals no matter what oil one uses, but that may be influenced by $$. They also recommend 15W-40 which my associates STRONGLY recommend against.
This is just my opinion and I am hardly an expert. I hope others with more experience while chime in hoping I can learn something too. I suggest a Blackstone analysis may be helpful. I forgot it on my last oil change.
With 5,000 mile intervals you can use 5W40 or 15W40 which ever you choose to use. I use the 5W40 because of the heat in the turbo and possible coking. That's just my opinion. I buy the 5W40 whenever on sale not paying attention to the brand as long as it meets Fords specs. For some reason oil is a push button topic and some act like their oil is a fix all god send. Don't over complicate it. If it meets service spec. CJ-4 your good to go wether it's 5W40 or 15W40. I do 5,000 mile changes for ease of tracking and fuel filters every third oil change. Don't forget that the brake system should be flushed every 2 to 3 years.
Lot of threads on the subject. After reading a few, I've decided to keep it simple. I change the oil when the oil life monitor tells me to.
The 6.7 doesn't have the oil shear problems that my 6.0 did. With the 6.0, I changed the oil at 5,000 instead of the 7,500 indicated on the scheduled maintenance chart. I got in the habit of using Shell Rotella T-6 5W-40 with the 6.0. It seems to be more resistant to oil shear problems too. Again this is based on the Blackstone reports that people posted. Seemed to make the 6.0 run better than dino oil too, especially in Winter. On my 2015 6.7, I switched over to T-6 on the second oil change.
On the 6.7, people who have done an oil analysis have shown that the Blackstone report says the oil still has life when the change is indicated. To me, that is great as I'd rather change a little earlier. There are reports that people have run that show I could probably go to 10,000 mile changes but oil is cheap, relatively speaking, versus warranty problems.
All the diesel techs I have talked to said, change it when the truck tells you to. No reason to change it early. Also, I run 5W-40 because those are temps I run the truck in. 15W-40 is too heavy for cold climates. Ford puts an oil viscosity chart in the manual. I really should run 0w-40, but no one up here does. The dealers here still put FoMoCo 10w-30 stuff in up here. The truck starts OK, but I could tel it was a harder start than when it is warmer out. This winter I have a heated garage, but for grins I may let it to a cold soak outside in low temps to see if 5w-40 syn starts easier.
6.0 was a different beat altogether. I did 3k oil change intervals in that beast as I was on the severe schedule. I don't see that need with the 6.7. Especially when UOA's using FoMoCo dino oil say the oil still had life left in it.
FWIW, even though you probably *could* do a UOA and figure out how far you could extend the change interval - I won't.
Thanks all. I appreciate the input. As varied as it is. I always felt better using the synthetic in my Cummins. Might just continue with it here in the 6.7. We'll see about that.
I run 0w40 in the winter, mineral 15w40 in the summer. Change 3,000-4,000 miles. Insane dust up here. Been trying lots of different oils to see if anything changed regen frequency, didn't change anything. this strategy works up here very well.
If you are concerned, just get a UOA which will let you know how the oil is doing. My only issue about extended oil changes is how do you reset the OLM to let you know. My F150 could actually be adjusted, but my F350 just has reset which sets it to 7500-8000 miles.
Big fan of UOA, I've found out 9,000 mile intervals (recommended by MB) with the wife's diesel Benz has the techs concerned, but they look awesome at 4,000. With my truck, from mineral 15w40, to stupid expensive boutique amsoil 15w40, UOA looks awesome if I change under 4,000 miles. Dirty yes, but the oil is still full of active additives and very minor fuel content.
I don't really understand it clearly, but, with these new diesels with all the emissions strategies, extended oil change intervals are more risky than they used to be. Things of concern are fuel dilution and particulate (soot) contamination.
So, I just change the oil when the truck tells me to.
When the engine blew in my 2011 truck, the mechanic showed me the crank where the rods attach. He made particular mention that for a 120,000 mile engine it was remarkable at how little wear there was on the metal-metal contact points. So, if the oil can stay clean, I guess it's possible to extend the intervals. Again, the problem is having a variable set of circumstances that can dilute or contaminate the oil.
I use the T-6 synthetic. Reasons are simple. It covers all temperature ranges and is priced right. It's on sale frequently for $20/gal.
I never wait until the truck comes up with an oil service message, from what I remember it's based on mileage, not how dirty the oil is, at least my previous trucks were like that so I've ignored the vehicle service indicator. Even the wife's Benz is mileage based, and I've already found out that a UOA comes back with concerns trying to follow it. Dilution is an issue for sure, as is soot. $20/gal for a full syn 5w40 is a great deal. IMO target the mileage not the oil service meter. Maybe I'm wrong for everyone, but it doesn't match up with what I have up here for conditions.
Ok, everyone talks about how long the oil is lasting/should last and on and on. But I almost never hear anyone talk about all the contamination oil gets suspended into it via combustion blow-by. Yes, even newer engines, all engines for that matter have a certain amount of combustion blow-by getting into the oil and it stays there until you change the oil, for the most part. Also contamination from moisture and acids that build up. Sure the oil filter is supposed to trap most of the solid junk in the oil, the chemical junk stays there. Why do you think on diesels that the oil turns blackish shortly after you change it? So, change intervals depend on alot, drive climate, idle time, how hard you are on the vehicle etc. So, as a guide, what I do if using one of the high drain time oils, like 15k, I cut that in half and change the oil at 7500 miles. Sure you dont want to over change oil, especially in the higher capacity diesel engines due to cost, but ask yourself how much it would cost to change/rebuild/replace the engine????
Ok, everyone talks about how long the oil is lasting/should last and on and on. But I almost never hear anyone talk about all the contamination oil gets suspended into it via combustion blow-by. Yes, even newer engines, all engines for that matter have a certain amount of combustion blow-by getting into the oil and it stays there until you change the oil, for the most part. Also contamination from moisture and acids that build up. Sure the oil filter is supposed to trap most of the solid junk in the oil, the chemical junk stays there. Why do you think on diesels that the oil turns blackish shortly after you change it? So, change intervals depend on alot, drive climate, idle time, how hard you are on the vehicle etc. So, as a guide, what I do if using one of the high drain time oils, like 15k, I cut that in half and change the oil at 7500 miles. Sure you dont want to over change oil, especially in the higher capacity diesel engines due to cost, but ask yourself how much it would cost to change/rebuild/replace the engine????
IMHO, with the 6.7, oil contamination potential is the reason I change when the truck tells me to. It is supposed to be an "Intelligent Oil Life Monitoring" system - meaning it takes how you use the truck into account. It isn't "Reading" the oil though. I base my change it when my FORD F350 tells me to on, what the techs tell me and what other people's UOA have told them. It seems that super duties, the IOLM is conservative (like most of its owners) in when to change the oil. I admit, I have changed it a little early when I know I am going out of town because I don't want an out of area oil change if I can help it.
MB for years has been known to stretch out oil changes too far. Volvo as well. We had a leased volvo, the turbo motors are sludge buckets if you follow the oil change interval.
IMHO, with the 6.7, oil contamination potential is the reason I change when the truck tells me to. It is supposed to be an "Intelligent Oil Life Monitoring" system - meaning it takes how you use the truck into account. It isn't "Reading" the oil though. I base my change it when my FORD F350 tells me to on, what the techs tell me and what other people's UOA have told them. It seems that super duties, the IOLM is conservative (like most of its owners) in when to change the oil. I admit, I have changed it a little early when I know I am going out of tsown because I don't want an out of area oil change if I can help it.
MB for years has been known to stretch out oil changes too far. Volvo as well. We had a leased volvo, the turbo motors are sludge buckets if you follow the oil change interval.
Ford doesn't monitor the oil either, there's nothing intelligent about it, it's mileage based. If you want to verify it, reset your oil meter half way through an expected change, it won't catch up to the current contamination, it just follows mileage.
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