Well it's time for ball joints on my 2000 Ex. 130K and all I've needed to do to the front axle before now was hub bearings and lube. I can't complain.

Any advice in general and on the following items in particular would be great.

I'm aware that the axle tube dust seals aren't actually needed, and they probably work pretty well keeping the water and mud IN if any gets in. Is there any sort of an update for these (like the aluminum ones for the Dana 30 in the Jeep that seal inside the axle tube, and greaseable)? I know the later ones are metal but don't think they fit.

On knuckle seals I've seen then listed as shielded and non-shielded. Is this a model year thing or are they interchangeable. If they are which is better?

Traces of gear lube in the right side axle tube, so I'm doing inner seals as well.

Diff cover is pretty ratty, thinking of picking up a new steel replacement. Don't see any listed for the Dana 50. Is the Dana 60 cover the same?

Brake dust/splash shields are gone. Don't plan on replacing them. Is there any need to account for their thickness between the knuckle and hub bearing?

Sway bar bushings and end link bushings, good source for nylon ones?

Anyone know the thread on the hub studs? Instead of buying 2 bags of them for $30 I was thinking about replacing them with Gr 8 socket head bolts.

Also does anyone know the dimensions of the knuckle seal tool? (#6695 I think)

Finally (I think), shocks and steering stabilizer. So many out there to choose from. Even from the same mfr. Recommendations appreciated. (front springs have been replaced so it doesn't ride on the snubbers anymore. Actually it used to bottom on the plates where the snubbers used to be before they got crushed and fell off )

Before you ask:
Plan on going with Moog ball joints (don't have the $ for the XRF) and Moog for the steering parts as well.

I was looking at Dynatrac or Spyntech conversions, but can't really justify the expense especially since my outer axles are in good shape and I've been greasing the hubs. Besides, I'd really miss the ESOF

Thanks for looking at this and thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Not a ton of advice, several of us run Bilstein 5100's for shocks and their equivalent steering stabilizer.

I made the knuckle seal tool for $15 from Lowe's, following a write up in the Tech Sticky. I used a grinder to turn down the flange, much to the chagrin of Razzi's neighbors I'm sure. Diameter needs to be 3 13/16"

Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 - Superdutypsd.com

For the swaybar stuff, I picked up new OEM pillow blocks from Ford and threw Dorman links on it - no complaints and its been over a year since.

 

Dana 50 - 60 cover , same
Backing plate, same as 60,just remove
Bushings, use polyurethane. Energy suspension

Shocks, depends on your desired ride characteristics

I have the Dynatrac free spin, unless you are breaking hubs and shafts it is just cheaper to carry a spare unit bearing with you.

 

Thanks for the input. Anyone else? ....... Bueller?

 

did we miss a question ?
I thought between the 2 of us we answered all the questions ?

 

Pirate, you guys were great. I appreciate the input.

I was also wondering,

what's the best solution for the outer axle tube dust seals,

whether the early and late hub seals are interchangeable,

an if so which is better,

if I need to be concerned about the increased depth of the hub bearing in the knuckle without the brake shields,

and if I can replace the hub/knuckle studs with bolts (if I knew the thread size ahead of time),

and of course any guidance on replacing the inner axle seals would be great.

Thanks again

 

My understanding on inner seals is you need to remove the gears and carrier on pretty much any solid axle. Should theoretically bolt back in place if you remove it properly and don't drop it, etc. That's how I did inner seals on all my XJ's with no issues, don't know if the 50 is different than a D30 in that regard.

Why do you want to replace the studs with bolts? I fail to see the point honestly.

If your dust shields are gone and have been for a while, that question answers itself. Unless your current setup is flopping all over the place or has ANY amount of wiggle room. In which case, it still answers itself

 

Yeah the 50 is just like the 30. I was just looking for anything to watch out for or maybe some slick diy method of removing and installing (threaded rod with washers, etc)

I thought socket head bolts (instead of the $5 a piece studs and nuts that are rusted in a week) would simplify R&Ring the hub bearing when I go in to clean and repack the axle pilot bearing. Just a thought.

The only part of the brake shields that remains in the part that is left between hub and knuckle. Just wondering if it will make a difference if I don't replace them. I'll look for problems when I get it apart. Just wanted to know if I should try to get some replacement shields to have on hand.

 

I'd recommend having some replacements, they can help keep your brakes intact. I recently had a caliper explode both pistons while trying to stop for a red light. After digging around quite a bit afterwards, it turns out a chunk of some mangled road debris had gotten lodged between the rotor and caliper. Ended up ripping the seals on the pistons, the rest of it I have no idea. The shields are cheap insurance is my point... Just so happens I was missing the left rear one, and I have a feeling if it were there I wouldn't have shelled out $340 in rear brakes.

Why not get the grease fitting that a lot of us use to maintain the unit bearings? I got mine from Clay at RiffRaff, makes servicing so much easier.

One thing I forgot to mention is make sure those plastic thrust washers are there upon disassembly as well.

I had a part number for a low-profile zerk fitting somewhere, I have since moved and have no idea where it went. The Moog upper ball joints are dropped and have a zerk, but it's a bit large and will hit the stub shaft u-joint ears so you can leave it installed apparently. They have a plug to install so you don't contaminate things, but it sucks having to remove it to grease. I found a low-profile 90° zerk and it worked great and clears everything in here.

 

These guys sell the spicer parts including the updated seal you want at Good prices.

Personally I would use the correct studs for the unit bearing.
As Matt said, I would also run the dust shields on a street vehicle but off road guys remove them all the time because they get bent.

Some decent YouTube vids on making the seal driver from Homedepot pipe parts. Also on inner seal install

Super Duty Axle Parts Kits Archives - Ventures Truck Parts

 

Thanks Matt

I've been using a diy grease fitting for the unit bearing (like on Guzzle's site). Works well. I also clean and pack the bearing that the outer axle rides in. Requires removal of the unit bearing though (thus the socket bolt question)

Thanks for the tip on the low-pro zerks. That's the kind of stuff I'm looking for.

 

Thanks Pirate