Several years ago I traded into a 54 f100.



As a novice at this it has been a slow go.

It was a complete redo, still is a work under progress. Sort of taught my self to weld. Still learning. Redoing what I did two years ago, last year. cab corners, cowels rocker panels above the back window, cab mount floor area. I've had the cab on and off several times. With the welding, the grinder is my best friend. Been doing the bondo, keeping at it until i'm happy with it. It's is slow as my eye is sharper than my skill base but redoing it until it looks good.



In the last several years I have put in a crown vic ifs front end in. a dana 60 rear axle. an under cab power brake set up with new brake lines. That was when I discovered the frame was cracked under the cab mounts.

I bought a 390 and strange enough it was a rear sump. Well I think it is a 390. I was lucky I had no idea the rear sump was what I needed, with the vic ifs. But there is a room issue so it looks like I will have to renovate the firewall to make it fit. Once that is done I will fab the motor mounts and the tranny cross member, right in the way with the power brake set up.

It still needs a bit more body work. all the electrical. assembly of glass, heater, wipers, steering linkage, doors, etc..

One thing that is helpful is that it has a fiberglass flip front end.


Been buying all kinds of parts. new glass, aftermarket 12v electrical, wood kit. Rubber mouldings, latchs, etc...

It seems I only get a day a month at it. so it is a slow project.



Any how I am enjoying the hobby of the build.

 

Welcome to FTE!

Can we see pics of your truck?

 

here are some older pictures.
Back of the cab after welding the right rear cab mount. Testing the color to see if I like it. It is an antique white ( a very pale yellow )

 

The fire wall . all these before the ifs front end'

 

After reading a bit more on this site and finding out that the rear sump oil pan was on the 360 truck blocks and not on the 390. I pulled the heads and checked the stroke..
yes.. it is a 360 and not a 390. On the other hand the pistons are marked 60 over and the cylinders are smooth with out any notable ridges. so it seems to be a good block.


I have an other 390 I'm going to pull the heads off to see what it is like.
Never played with a 390 before. The push rods through the manifold seems a bit strange.

 

when I removed the distributer I thought I heard some thing fall down the shaft opening. There was nothing on the manifold as I made sure it was clean.


Is there some kind of insert or drive piece that would sit on the lower seat of the block and drive the oil pump from the bottom of the distributer?


Thanks in advance for any answers

 

Good morning and welcome to FTE. I don't know about the distributer but I can definitely relate to going back and redoing some of the things I did a few years ago. In my case I think Ill always be doing that as I was a total novice when I got my truck, and still am. But it's ok ,I have gotten so much enjoyment out of the learning that it far out ways any inconvenience. Anyway I just wanted to stop by and cheer you on, it sounds like your doing a great job.

 

There is a shaft between the distributor and the oil pump. It can fall out.

 

some of my friends are surprised at my patience, but as things go wrong or unforeseen problems come forth after a mod, well I just sweep the floor and leave. Coming back later seems to work for me, to solve the problem or start the redo. Thanks for the encouragement.

 

Kinda figured it was like that. Last time I had a ford distribtor out, it was over 30 years ago,

Guess the oil pan is coming off.

Thanks for the info.

 

here is the crown vic intercepter ifs


The ifs was as I figured about 1/2" wider than the stock assembly, as the through bolts are not dead center in the frame.
I cut and welded a hss 2" material on the bottom of the frame. The rear of the hss infill was cut taperd on the top to follow the conture of the frame. Then through drilled for the bolts cut and installed the pressure blocks ( cold rolled steel pipe) that the bolts pass through. The tails ( don't know what else to call them) I tacked up some 1/4" plates into brackets that bolted to the tail and the frame. I the welders at work weld them up. For the brake flex line I used the stock flex lines and had a neighbour weld in tabs for the through frame supports for them, he did this when he welded up the frame cracks ( both sides) at the front cab mounts location. The front sway bar bolted right up to the frame. that was the easiest part of the install. The wheels turn completely and miss the mounting of the flex lines as well as does not rub on them. I played several hours to find the best location for the tab mount.




If I was going to do this again with a big block (fe) I would have moved the ifs if possible foreward about one to one and a half inches to clear the firewall. The windsors are about 3 inchs smaller and would not have a clearance problem as long as they have a rear sump oil pan.
I would also have extended the 2" hss farther foreward and bolted the sway bars to it.





So next on the list after sorting the two motors I have one rear sump 360 and a front sump 390, both blocks as I see it are in good shape with out a complete tear down to check. Pulled the heads off on both motors this weekend. Looks like I will be changing the oil pan on the 390 as I want the bigger motor.


The dana 60 rear axle was from a 61 f100 and was an easy bolt in.






Once the motor is sort of in place ( after renovating the fire wall) I can tack together the motor mounts. The goal is to have the motor low enough that tranny and drive shaft are under the floor. Do not want renovate the floor to get every thing to work out.

 

Firewall renovation almost complete...ran out of argon..killed it for this sunday.


I laid out the firewall cut. The motor is going to be off set to the passenger side to align up with the crown vic motor mount upstands. It is 24 inches wide to allow the 390 with the rear sump to clear the cross member




cut it out and used the factory bends to refab the wider insert.

 

Cut out the new opening trimmed of the excess from the firewall.
tacked up the infill with a 7- 1/2 inch insert. Welded it in and ground the weld. The beads were a bit heavy, so lots of grinding.

 

The almost complete picture I welded in the insert and ground the welds, Due to the lack of argon I just tacked in the remaining 5 small pieces along the bottom. using the old firewall pieces to make it look as close to factory as possible.


It clears the heater air plenum but I will need a gas cable instead or the linkage. I might have to shift the brake pedal over an inch or two with the steering column as a result of modding the firewall.


My welding still requires a lot of grinding but getting better,,lol

 

Looking good! What are you doing for the bolt pattern on the Dana 60? Also is your dana 60 a semi floating one? Final question, why not go with an explorer 8.8" rear end to match up the bolt pattern with the CV(not sure if they are actually the same pattern)