2001 F350 4X4 changing U Joint
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2001 F350 4X4 changing U Joint
I have a 2001 F350 4x4 7.3 extended cab. Noticed the rear u joint could be moved up and down but no play when rotated the drive shaft. Replace the u joint and have the same problem. No problem at the shaft itself but the joint connected to the rear end moves under the clamps. It is like they are different sizes. There is a raised stop (not sure how to define it) and the ends on the joint don't reach it. Can anyone help. I went back to the parts place and they checked again and said it was the correct one. Thanks!
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Wasn't given a part number. Went to a local parts place. Will check the door tag for wheel base. The parts place asked me to bring the old one to them so they could check the measurement. Seems odd I believe from the rust on the old one it was the original and was doing much the same thing although I believe the play was inside but honestly can't remember. Seems odd that it would fit the drive shaft so snugly and not the flange. Thanks for your prompt reply.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: East Tawas, MI
I just went thru this with my rig as well.
I was going thru the rear u joint often. What I found was my rear yoke was worn slightly and the joint would "Float" causing misalignment and a feathered vibration off throttle.
The only real way to correct the problem was a new yoke. I had an open diff and wanted a locker so I changed out the entire rear axle. (Extreme, I know but everthing's good now).
My mechanic tried to ***** pinch it, drop a small weld in it, but to no avail.
Denny
I was going thru the rear u joint often. What I found was my rear yoke was worn slightly and the joint would "Float" causing misalignment and a feathered vibration off throttle.
The only real way to correct the problem was a new yoke. I had an open diff and wanted a locker so I changed out the entire rear axle. (Extreme, I know but everthing's good now).
My mechanic tried to ***** pinch it, drop a small weld in it, but to no avail.
Denny
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Diesel Denny, Thanks for the input. I think you are right. When I checked further I could see a small gap at the end of two caps and the it would float back and forth. I have stopped it temporally by grinding down the back of each of the clamps and tightening the caps and managed to stop it. Will need to get a new yoke. Do I need to do anything special when I install the new yoke as far a lining it up for balance? I would assume not. Thanks again!
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Thanks again to all who commented. This forum has saved me some bucks and a lot of time! God Bless!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: East Tawas, MI
On the short end of it. You can mill the caps but your really looking for a spinning drive shaft taking out you or others.
You can try a slight metal shim pak on both sides equally proportioned. Or you can take a punch and try to put some bite into the yoke. It's all haphazard to me other than doing it correct. If your going in the right direction, you can't do it in your driveway or garage. People say you can. I'm good, been there done that with your exact issue. Take it to a drivetrain shop with the new yoke in hand and ask what the cost is.
I don't drop babies and I don't do rocket refueling but I'm a capable person. Once the yoke is divorced, there are tolerances that have to be met inside the diff to make the thing spin up correctly.
I was told to count threads and throw garlic. Ain't happenin.
Buy a fresh yoke, driveline shop it and eat it. (Or just buy a posi like I did and cry for a few days until you get two black stripes instead of one. LOL)
Denny
You can try a slight metal shim pak on both sides equally proportioned. Or you can take a punch and try to put some bite into the yoke. It's all haphazard to me other than doing it correct. If your going in the right direction, you can't do it in your driveway or garage. People say you can. I'm good, been there done that with your exact issue. Take it to a drivetrain shop with the new yoke in hand and ask what the cost is.
I don't drop babies and I don't do rocket refueling but I'm a capable person. Once the yoke is divorced, there are tolerances that have to be met inside the diff to make the thing spin up correctly.
I was told to count threads and throw garlic. Ain't happenin.
Buy a fresh yoke, driveline shop it and eat it. (Or just buy a posi like I did and cry for a few days until you get two black stripes instead of one. LOL)
Denny
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Trying to find the correct yoke. Called Ford and they said it was obsolete. On the rear end it has S406H which is 3.37 ratio and 10.5 ring. When I was searching some said they had it and it was a Dana 60. Called AutoZone and they said that it was not 60 or 80 but had the one that would work. On the drive shaft it says Dana F81A-4K145-LTC Wheel base is 158. Single wheels on rear. Local shop says they will install it, don't have a driveline shop in the local area. Retire and on fixed income. Any suggestion or things I should watch?
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Trying to find the correct yoke. Called Ford and they said it was obsolete. On the rear end it has S406H which is 3.37 ratio and 10.5 ring. When I was searching some said they had it and it was a Dana 60. Called AutoZone and they said that it was not 60 or 80 but had the one that would work. On the drive shaft it says Dana F81A-4K145-LTC Wheel base is 158. Single wheels on rear. Local shop says they will install it, don't have a driveline shop in the local area. Retire and on fixed income. Any suggestion or things I should watch?
The rear is a Sterling 10.5, assuming you have a SRW truck. Dually is a Dana80
The front diff is either a D50 or D60. ( Since you have an F350 it is almost certainly a D60- The D50 was used in the F250, up to '03)
For the rear u-joint, at the diff, it should be a 1410-series (Dana/Spicer part# 5-1410x (non-greasable) or 5-160x (greasable)
The other joints (both front and rear shafts) should all be 1350-series joints. The cap diameter is the same, the cross of the joint is wider on a 1410
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Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Reed Point, MT
I've used pop (or beer) can aluminum as a shim for these yokes for years. Cut just enough to wrap both caps and hang off each end slightly. When the caps are inserted into the yoke, the overhang will shim for lateral movement while the wrapped caps will no longer spin between the strap and the yoke. Going strong on three work trucks for almost five years. One other (the first one I fixed) got a new yoke but after falling out of my chair regarding the cost I simply decidedto limp them along and found a permanent fix by accident.
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carguy3j and cleatus12r, I intend to try the aluminum pepsi can (can't hold my beer any more) in the morning then call the other on Mon. The U-Joint that I replaced was snug in the drive shaft so I assumed it was correct the play was in the yoke. Mine is apparently Sterling 10.5 since mine is a single rear wheel. Again, this forum is something else! Got a run around from most of the parts stores, Ford seemed to be more helpful but not too much. Thanks again from an old Hospital Corpsman!
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Called another Ford dealer and they said they found the part. Have ordered it and will just have them install it along with a new seal next Mon. Will feel better having them do it, unsure about torque setting. Will see if I can get the part number if it will help anyone else with similar problem. Thanks for all the great advise!
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Got it done today. Ford part number is F81Z*481*AB FLANGE. Told me there were metal filings on the plug when they removed it to add rear end fluid. Not sure how much there should be but with 320,000 I would expect some. How long does the average rear end go? Thanks!
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