Currently I have stock stamped mustang II upper and lower control arms, with the strut rod. I don't have any shocks yet. I do have original mustang springs. Which probably aren't the correct spring rate.

I am looking for suggestions on the. Following:

Ridetech strongarms lower. $500
Ridetech coilovers. $600-700

Buy cheap Monroe shocks and use what I have for now. $50

Or should I go cheaper and get speedway motors tubular upper and lower $300


I currently have no limit 4 link with ridetech in the rear. Kinda want them to match, but darn they're expensive

 

You'll first need to decide what you want your truck to be. We're all enablers and will say go for the good stuff. We're not paying for it.

If you want coilovers or air ride, then the Shockwaves are definitely the way to go. They're designed for the increased forces induced by the revised suspension design. If you're fine with "stock" springs and shocks, then the standard tubulars are going to be sufficient. Just be sure before buying replacements that the arms you buy will match with the geometry and setup of your current crossmember.

Whatever you decide, think it through fully. There's no point in buying two sets of the stuff if you change your mind and go for the coilovers later. My 2c.

 

1. IMHO OEM stamped MII control arms (upper and lower, don't replace one without replacing the other) were never designed for the weight of a F100 with V-8. They were designed for a nose light 2K# Pinto for the "little lady" to drive 35 MPH to the grocery store. 2. The single pivot with lower strut arm was an engineering exercise in how cheaply a suspension could be produced (fact!) One of the worst suspension designs ever. 3. Designed for the braking stresses of a tiny set of brakes with even tinier 13" wheels and narrow low grip tires from low speeds. 4. The basic geometry is terrible for handling (again made for ease of steering in a parking lot) on a car with a low center of gravity not taxed in maneuvering, not for high speed driving and maneuvering on a nose heavy vehicle with a high center of gravity, while being stressed by significantly upsized brakes, wheels and tires. The geometry will change like a drunken sailor.
What you should do is first analyze how you are planning to drive the truck then make changes as/if needed to meet that use. Are you going to drive it just a few miles only on a nice weekend Sunday to church, or the mall, in parades, or to park it at a lawn "show"? Are you going to take it on longer cruises that include the interstate and scenic (twisty) roads at higher speeds? Are you going to use it as a DD where you'll be doing frequent stop and go driving in traffic or high speed commutes? Are you likely to push the performance envelope (trips to the drag strip, autocross, stoplight acceleration contests, "cowboy" driving)? Be honest with your self evaluation, it's your safety and pocketbook at stake.

 

Run what you got to start with but box them in for strength. Save your pennies and upgrade later if you feel the need. That's my thoughts, it may help get your truck on the road quicker.

 

Sorry to repeat what Wayne said, he posted while I was still writing.

 

Just for info Ax is partially right, Pinto did not come with V8s but the Mustang II did. Besides most of the major company's selling the kits include M2 stock arms unless you upgrade. That said I say box them and run them for now but then again it is not my money and I will not tell you to spend yours unless it is a major safety issue.

 

Chuck, I know you're a frequent Pinto basher, but the facts are it was a good car for what it was, and the time it was built. Light years ahead of a Vega. You may be interested in reading what Patrick Bedard of Car and Driver said of their Pinto back in '75...
Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.
Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)


Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.
"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

http://jalopnik.com/5785674/why-the-...nto-didnt-suck
Just FYI.

Also, if you really dig into it, the front axle centerline is back considerably compared to the nose weight of the engine and drive train, making the car comparatively heavy on the nose and front suspension. It is designed to hold at least some weight. It held the 302 in the Mustang II just fine. In fact, Heidt's did a study which was published in one of their catalogs some 25 years ago that explained how all that worked and how it fits into the suspension designs of street rods with a more engine-back setup. The load is less in many aftermarket applications than it was in stock form.

 

The ride tech controls arms are well made and use heavy wall tubing, I have them on the chassis I built for my truck. Qa1 makes some good coil over kits for mustang II set ups. You could use your upper arms if you want. If your strut rod set up was done correctly, It would hold up fine. The single bolt lower control arm and strut rod was used on lots of heavy vehicles

 

I can't thank you guys enough for your input. The front suspension is already boxed, I'm leaning towards cheap shocks just to get it on the road and then upgrade as I go.

PS- I wanna drive it like I stole it!

 

 

I'd buy coilovers for ride height and tunability and run what you got. I was going to suggest converting your strut rod bushings to heim joints but it looks like you've already put an aftermarket strut rod on it.

 

Pretty sure they were talking about boxing and beefing up your stamped control arms? Which might not be a bad idea, and pretty much free.

IMO use what you got. I say that cuz if it isn't going to radically change the build just keep plugging along with what you have. You could always easily upgrade control arms when the truck is done with no, or little to no extra work. Again just my opinion. I get in those mental debates all the time with myself ha ha. If it's something I can decide about later and change or upgrade later with little to no fabrication changes ( essenty better bolt on stuff ) just do it later.

Happy wrenching.