how do I reset my misfire moniter I need to get my car smogged and it wont clear any help would be nice

 

By misfire monitor I'm thinking you mean the Check Engine Light, CEL. Also called SES, MIL depending on manufacturer. It's the dash light to let you know the Powertrain Control Module PCM has detected a fault that affects performance.

You need a code reader to see what the code is. Simply clearing it will not allow it to pass smog. Cheapest method is your android phone, Torque Pro app, and a . Read and write down the codes, check/fix what they indicate, and clear the codes.

Where are you located? Maybe you'll be lucky and a local member with this set up or a legit code scanner can help you.

 

I take it yours is a CA model. You need to perform the OBD drive cycle specific to your year. Not sure about a 2000 but here is the OBD drive cycle procedure for the 2003, scroll down to "drive cycles":
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/re...e=EN&viewer=IE

You can also just keep driving it and eventually the monitor will become ready and the P1000 will go away but it could take a long time. Every time you clear DTCs with a scanner the readiness monitors will have to start over so you will never get rid of the P1000 by trying to clear it with a scan tool.
Keep in mind the problem that set the DTC in the first place must be fixed first. If not, as soon as the monitor is ready it will detect the misfiring and set the MIL and you will be back to square one.


Here is an explanation of the monitors
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...14/V3C1002.HTM

 

Looks like the OBD drive cycle for yours is the same, scroll down to the last post:


Reference: - OBD-ll Drive Cycle | FordForumsOnline.com

 

I suppose you could get it thru smog by running it thru as soon as the monitor is ready, before it detects a misfire. It probably does not set the MIL until it detects the problem on several consecutive drive cycles.

 

Well did you get it? or are you going to leave us hanging?

 

I have (finally) gotten to a point where I can reliably get the Comprehensive Component Readiness Test Monitors to complete. The monitors can be completed within about 10 miles of driving in about 20 minutes. I have followed the procedure 3-4 times now, and it works every time. FWIW – there is no way these would complete under MY normal driving conditions. I just don’t push the truck hard enough except when I tow (which I don’t consider a normal condition). The drive cycle tests posted in the forum work, but the test conditions (MFDES) are critical.

The procedure – and more importantly the test conditions – come straight from the Ford 1999 Service Manual - 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Control/Emissions Diagnosis Book (pages 2-34 and 2-35). My truck is a 1999 7.3L with a manual transmission (M/T). I cannot say if this is going to work for all 1999 – 2003 years. And the instructions are different for automatic transmissions (A/T). I mention the A/T differences in the procedure below (based on the Ford manual), but I have no way to verify them. Hope this helps someone.

Several keys to this test:

1. The more engine load you can put on the truck the easier time you will have. The problem with a light engine load is keeping the fuel demand (MFDES) up without getting the vehicle going excessively fast/high RPM. The Ford manual recommends level to uphill terrain – do not try the test going downhill. I was able to get the tests to pass on level terrain, but you are going to end up running 70-ish MPH in 4th gear (2700-ish RPM). It is much easier to keep the fuel demand high, and speed/RPM lower if you have some grade.

2. It really helps if you have a way to monitor the Mass Fuel Desired (MFDES, MFD, goes by a few names) given in mg/stroke. This parameter (PID) is telling the computer the target fuel delivery based on pedal position, RPM, etc. I use my ScanGuage to view this value real time. Many diagnostic scanners will provide this PID. Without this value, it is hard to get a feel for the fuel demand. Now that I have a feel for what I need to achieve, I can execute the test without looking at the PID.

3. It’s worth emphasizing the M/T shift pattern. The gears are marked R-L-1-2-3-4-D. I’ve seen some forum confusion on what gear to run the drive cycle in. Run it in 4th gear per the above numbering sequence.

4. The procedure and other forum posts talk about a P1000 code (OBD-II Monitor Status) when the monitor tests are NOT complete. I have never seen this code and cannot speak to it – my truck never throws it. The Ford manual says if this code persists you need to rerun the tests and make sure the MFDES is within the range indicated in the procedure. On my vehicle I use the scan tool to look specifically at the status of the readiness monitors (there is a menu for this on the tool).

Here is the drive cycle procedure paraphrased from the Ford manual with my notes.

1. Key On.

2. Wait until “Wait to Start” light goes out OR 10 seconds whichever is GREATER.

3. Start and idle for 40 seconds.

4. Drive to wherever you are going to conduct the rest of the test – hopefully where there is an uphill grade, and little to no traffic. Follow the law.

5. Turn on headlights, and A/C (more load on engine). Do not use hazards or PTO.

6. Accelerate slowly to 4th gear (to 1500 RPM and hold). With the rest of the drive test, the RPM and fuel delivery is the key, not so much the vehicle speed. The Ford manual talks about speed – but pay more attention to the RPM, time, and mass fuel desired (MFDES).

a. Hold at 1500 RPM for 3 seconds.

b. Accelerate from 35 to 65 MPH (approx.) over the period of 11 seconds (4th gear).

i. MFDES must exceed 37 mg/stroke for the ENTIRE 11 seconds.

ii. The first 5 seconds needs to be above 1500 RPM.

iii. The last 6 seconds must be about 2300 RPM.

iv. If you drop below 37 mg/stroke at any point in the 11 seconds the cycle won’t count.

v. I “think” it’s OK if you exceed the # of seconds at any point, but you may end up with excessive speed/RPM.

7. Repeat step 6 for a total of 3 times.

8. Turn off the headlights, and A/C

9. Before continuing your Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) needs to be above 60C or 140F (you probably achieved this unless its super cold out). If not, I presume you just drive around until you reach this temperature. You need a scan tool to read this PID.

10. Idle for 20 seconds in Park or Neutral. The MFDES must be below 12 mg/stroke (mine runs around 6-7 mg/stroke).

11. Key off

12. Check and confirm the Component Test is complete (you need a scan tool). One of these complete drive cycles reliably completes the tests in my truck. If not complete, then try the sequence again.

For A/T vehicles:

1. Perform step 6 with OVERDRIVE CANCEL and in 3rd gear.

2. After step 8, disengage OVERDRIVE CANCEL, drive in 4th gear continuously for 60 seconds.

3. Then accelerate from full stop to fourth gear and back to a full stop. Repeat 10 times.

4. Continue with step 9.