Transmission Removal
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Atlanta, GA
Transmission Removal
1991 Ranger, standard cab, 2wd, 2.3L engine, 5 speed
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination. Any suggestions?
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmsission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
Jeff Rees
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination. Any suggestions?
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmsission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
Jeff Rees
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
My 1999 Ford Service Manual indicates to remove the exhaust inlet cross-over pipe,
to lower the transmission enough to gain access to the transmission to engine bolts,
and to use a long extension to remove the engine bolts.
I don't know if that still applies in the case of a 1991 but I think it sounds like it should.
to lower the transmission enough to gain access to the transmission to engine bolts,
and to use a long extension to remove the engine bolts.
I don't know if that still applies in the case of a 1991 but I think it sounds like it should.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 38
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From: Atlanta, GA
Thank you for the input - that is exactly what I had to do. And, I did not have to break the exhaust system to get the clearance.
The question asked was actually related to the two bolts, one on either side, that I simply ran into a major gumption trap getting loose. I finally did - and from there on it was pretty straightforward. Surprisingly, the reassembly was no big issue.
Again, thanks for the input.
Jeff Rees
The question asked was actually related to the two bolts, one on either side, that I simply ran into a major gumption trap getting loose. I finally did - and from there on it was pretty straightforward. Surprisingly, the reassembly was no big issue.
Again, thanks for the input.
Jeff Rees
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Geo, Hi from canton. When I did my transmission work, the bell housing bolts were accessible using a loooong extension, possibly two or three, along with a 'wobbly' extension at the end, where the socket attaches. Harbor Freight has a set that is less than $20, or was, that has 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 extensions. The tip is designed to allow the socket to move off center from a straight-on position so you can have some angular motion without resorting to a universal joint{I can break almost every one I've used}. Sure comes in handy when you can reach the bolts from near the tail housing.
And, yes, the bell housing bolts seem to be attached at a ridiculous torque level at the factory. Especially the ones you cannot attack straight on. I remember using two box end wrenches, hooked, to get a long enough lever to get the top two broken loose. It was hard to do on the side with the heater or A/C plenum.
tom
And, yes, the bell housing bolts seem to be attached at a ridiculous torque level at the factory. Especially the ones you cannot attack straight on. I remember using two box end wrenches, hooked, to get a long enough lever to get the top two broken loose. It was hard to do on the side with the heater or A/C plenum.
tom
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