EOT is 232 & EC is 195. EGR Cooler is Deleted. What Now?
#1
EOT is 232 & EC is 195. EGR Cooler is Deleted. What Now?
Hi Everyone,
New here. I have a 2005 F250, 299k miles, EGR deleted, head studs, and other than that the truck is stock from what I can tell. I don't tow anything ever.
So I read this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pressure.html and now I have some concerns about my engine oil temperature.
When driving down the highway, 65 MPH, my EOT is 232 and my EC is 195. I am using my OBDII code scanner to read these temperatures. So my questions:
Other possibly relevant details:
The truck seems to be running fine. The only trouble is that when it cold outside (under 32°F) it it very hard to start. When I plug in the block heater it starts with no problems.
Thanks everyone,
Andy
New here. I have a 2005 F250, 299k miles, EGR deleted, head studs, and other than that the truck is stock from what I can tell. I don't tow anything ever.
So I read this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pressure.html and now I have some concerns about my engine oil temperature.
When driving down the highway, 65 MPH, my EOT is 232 and my EC is 195. I am using my OBDII code scanner to read these temperatures. So my questions:
Other possibly relevant details:
The truck seems to be running fine. The only trouble is that when it cold outside (under 32°F) it it very hard to start. When I plug in the block heater it starts with no problems.
Thanks everyone,
Andy
#2
Confirm the temperature readings aren't just showing you sensor bias by confirming that after sitting overnight unplugged the ECT and EOT are withing +/- 2-3*f of each other. If they are drastically different, replace the sending unit for the one that's furthest from ambient temp.
Odds are you'll need to replace the oil cooler. Not a big deal, it's one of the common issues on a 6.0L and can be done in 4-6 hours by most shops, or by yourself. Fix it fairly soon because if it ruptures you're going to have a major repair issue, but it's not catastrophic yet. There is absolutely no reason under the sun to sell a truck over an oil cooler needing to be replaced.
Coolant flushing is recommended before the swap though:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...nge-101-a.html
Cold start issue: What's the readings on your FICM voltage and alternator voltage during the bad cold starts? 6.0s have understized alternators and are notoriously hard on batteries and the FICM.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
Odds are you'll need to replace the oil cooler. Not a big deal, it's one of the common issues on a 6.0L and can be done in 4-6 hours by most shops, or by yourself. Fix it fairly soon because if it ruptures you're going to have a major repair issue, but it's not catastrophic yet. There is absolutely no reason under the sun to sell a truck over an oil cooler needing to be replaced.
Coolant flushing is recommended before the swap though:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...nge-101-a.html
Cold start issue: What's the readings on your FICM voltage and alternator voltage during the bad cold starts? 6.0s have understized alternators and are notoriously hard on batteries and the FICM.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
#4
Standard procedure on an EGR cooler replacement or delete is to replace the oil cooler. After that you should also start changing coolant every 50k miles rather than the 100k that Ford recommended on the initial coolant service. It's not a bad idea to add a coolant filter on a 6.0 to protect the oil cooler in the future.
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