Well she's new to me, so we're still "dating", so to speak. She only misses about 30 seconds during stone cold startup. I figure it's probably the plug thats hardest to reach ? Isn't that the way it always is? From the hood I can see only one spark plug, so I figure I'll do all the plugs. Is there any right or wrong approach to the plugs? I did the thermostat today, but this plug job looks like it's gonna be a bitch. Time for some skinned knuckles Next is the right side O2 sensor, that looks like fun too. But I gotta say, this little truck is sweet. Great visibility and easy to park in the city. I really like her. She's a keeper. She needs some new sway bar bushings too, but no surprise with 127 K on the clock. I think I'm falling in love.

 

I do the rear two plugs from inside the fender well. To me getting the spark plug wires off is the toughest part of the job

 

Ty Roger, that's just the kind of tip that really helps. I didn't even think about approaching the plugs from the fender well. I haven't taken a real close look yet, but it seems all the others need to be done by feel. All the engine stuff blocks the view.

 

I accessed all of my 99 4.0L plugs from the top side. Passenger side is a little more restrictive, but doable with the right extension & some patience, drivers side is no problem from the top. As has been said, some folks do go to the trouble of removing the passenger side plugs by removing the front wheel & inner fender liner to make it easier to get at the passenger side plugs, but all that really isn't necessary. Go at it the way your most comfortable with, so as not to break off a plug.

Be sure to replace the plugs & wires with the specified design & heat range, as our waste spark ignition puts a Double work load on them, so to last, they need to be designed to take the Double work load over time. Refer to the "Tech Info" thread atop this forums index page for more info on "why double platinum plugs" & other helpful wrenching info you'll likely find helpful.

The newer design finewire iridium enhanced center electrode, with platinum pad sidewire Motorcraft or Autolite plugs & wires are highly recommended, as they are of high quality & designed to last & work real good in our waste spark ignition system.

Be sure to Carefully check/adjust the new plugs spark gap, BUT use a wire gauge & slowly ease up on the gap. Dont pull the gauge through too tight a gap & damage the center or sidewire electrodes.

Apply a little Loctite, or Permatex high temp nickel anti-sieze compound to the plugs threads (don't get any on the inner or outer ceramics) & to prevent over tightening, using your torque wrench, take the time to properly torque the plugs to the Low side of spec to allow for the anti-sieze lube effect.

Consider using a thin layer of high quality GE, DowCorning, or Permatex/Loctite dielectric grease on the plugs outer ceramic insulator & inside the plug wire boots, to help prevent flashover on those wet rainy days, or damp dewey morning starts.

Scan the computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers found, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues. Most autoparts stores will scan at no cost if you have a CEL lit, or are having problems.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

PawPaw ty you are a real pro, I can see that because I am an aviation mechanic with an Inspection rating and I recognize correctness when I see it. Cars are actually harder to work on, and are more complicated, than airplanes. But the big difference is you cannot make a mistake with airplanes. Thanks again you are a very worthy moderator.

 

From our "Tech Info" thread, info on how our waste spark ignition system works that you might find interesting. Ford DIS/EDIS "Waste Spark" Ignition System

Roger on turning wrenches on aircraft being a Serious job, been there & done that 55 years ago as a Navy AEM & it wasn't much fun then, as aircraft weren't designed from the ground up as an intergrated system, like they are today. Back then they just took what was available & stuffed in whatever was needed where ever they could find space for the mission at hand & the shop/service folks had to learn how to deal with it!!!!

Just as I decided that a career crawling around in foward "hell holes" in all kinds of weather wasn't for me, wouldn't you know it, they woke up & wala, designed the first intergrated system that hit the line with rack mounted goodies, that were all accessible from inside the cabin!!!! But I felt so guilty about hogging all that maintenance fun that I decided to let others share in the joy, so I bowed out!!!! Don't miss all the contortions I had to get into to apply safety wire to all those danged fastners, or doing it on a cold, wet windy, pitching deck either!!!!

Back then cars & trucks were Much simpler but not very sophisticated, parts didn't last as long, but things were generally easier to get at to work on or replace!!!

By contrast, todays vehicles are Much more sophisticated, parts last longer but things are stuffed into our aerodynamic vehicles tighter & some parts are more difficult, or nearly impossible to get at unless we disassemble the dang vehicle.

On the other hand the computer controlled items & diagnostics electronics makes accurate trouble shooting of our vehicles Much faster & easier now, IF we have a scantool. But replacing some of the parts is a challange in some cases because of limited space in our more aero vehicles, so save your best cuss words for those special occasions, not that it'll make things go better, but cause sometimes things just need a good ole fashion cussin & you'll feel a whole lot better when you let em have it!!!!! lol

So as suggested above, before your next repair, be sure to visit our "Tech Info" thread for some good trouble shooting & maintenance/repair tips that can help retain some of your sanity & gold!!!! Keep us posted on how it goes.