anyone move their radiator forward 2"
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
anyone move their radiator forward 2"
Hi, I need to move my radiator forward 2". I have a 54 ford with a 302 and AOD trans. It also has a volare front end installed and an electric fan attached to the radiator. The engine sits high in the bay due to the volare cross member but it also is leaning to the rear enough so that my carb is also leaning back. raising the tranny 1 1/2 to 2" would level the carb and have the engine more level. Lifting the back would put the water pump pulley in to the fan.
I don't want to move the entire core support because all my body panels fit really good now so, has anyone moved their radiator within the U shaped channel it sits in and how did you do it? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Bill
I don't want to move the entire core support because all my body panels fit really good now so, has anyone moved their radiator within the U shaped channel it sits in and how did you do it? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Bill
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From: Burbank, WA
Hi, I need to move my radiator forward 2". I have a 54 ford with a 302 and AOD trans. It also has a volare front end installed and an electric fan attached to the radiator. The engine sits high in the bay due to the volare cross member but it also is leaning to the rear enough so that my carb is also leaning back. raising the tranny 1 1/2 to 2" would level the carb and have the engine more level. Lifting the back would put the water pump pulley in to the fan.
Bill
Bill
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I seem to be about in the same boat. With my drivetrain angled at 4* to get the AOD low enough and the crown vic crossmember, my engine with double hump oil pan is centered over the crossmember (as it should be). The front crank pulley is just about to touch the front frame crossmember where the radiator support bolts to. When I mocked up the radiator and water pump, it looked like I barely had enough room for a slim electric fan. Don't think I can realistically move the engine back further. So I will probably move the radiator forward a bit.
here it is sitting level as low as it would go. As you can see, the driveshaft would be going through the cab. Angling the the drivetrain is normal, you want the same working angle at the front U-joint as you have at the rear. For me 4 degrees crank centerline and 6 degrees driveshaft gives a nice 2 degree working angle for the U-joint. If it was level, 6 degrees is too much for a U-joint, IMO.
If all you are concerned about leveling the carb, just get a carb leveling wedge... or switch to EFI
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-65030/overview/
here it is sitting level as low as it would go. As you can see, the driveshaft would be going through the cab. Angling the the drivetrain is normal, you want the same working angle at the front U-joint as you have at the rear. For me 4 degrees crank centerline and 6 degrees driveshaft gives a nice 2 degree working angle for the U-joint. If it was level, 6 degrees is too much for a U-joint, IMO.
If all you are concerned about leveling the carb, just get a carb leveling wedge... or switch to EFI
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-65030/overview/
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radiator
Going from the last question and as far as the engine pan, I bought a rear sump pan and new pick up tube but there was still a small hump at the bottom of the front of the pan. at the front there is about an inch of clearance between the pan and the volare cross member. on using spacers I'm trying to move the radiator forward not back. and as for Das I do not have v belt system it has a serpentine system and the brackets and pulleys sticks out almost 9 inches from the front of the block to the tip of the water pump pulley which right now is about a 1/4 inch from hitting my fan bearing housing. If I lift the back of the block at the tranny now it will be into the fan
bill
bill
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might create more problems than you fix by leveling the crank centerline.
Sounds like it is right where it should be.
Sounds like it is right where it should be.
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Hi Ryan, Is yours a 5.0 block? What pulley system are you going to use? I was thinking of going for a later 5.0 out of a mustang or the 97-2001 set up from an Explorer. Both will give me a lot more room, but that would cost me an arm and a leg. I know I will have to modify the floor for my tranny if I raise the back. And re-degree the driveline possibly.
bill
bill
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From: Austin
Hey Bill,
It's definitely tight. We are running a 351W & an AOD in our 1950 F1 & we had to go with an electric fan set up to get enough clearance up front. We also had to make a slightly larger hump in the cab for the AOD - Our floor was a total replacement so it didn't matter to us and it's not noticeable when finished out.
Here are a couple of pics - I hope that helps.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
It's definitely tight. We are running a 351W & an AOD in our 1950 F1 & we had to go with an electric fan set up to get enough clearance up front. We also had to make a slightly larger hump in the cab for the AOD - Our floor was a total replacement so it didn't matter to us and it's not noticeable when finished out.
Here are a couple of pics - I hope that helps.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
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From: okla
Here is the 302/AOD in my 53 with Volare suspension. The serpentine system is what was on the motor [84 HO]. Actually I could have set the engine back a bit [wish I had]. The electric fan/shroud is Cooling Componants Inc. The radiator is a 72 Ford pu.
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Hi Ryan, Is yours a 5.0 block? What pulley system are you going to use? I was thinking of going for a later 5.0 out of a mustang or the 97-2001 set up from an Explorer. Both will give me a lot more room, but that would cost me an arm and a leg. I know I will have to modify the floor for my tranny if I raise the back. And re-degree the driveline possibly. bill
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From: Wentzville, MO
What kind of air cleaner is that? Might look good if painted black on my Y Block.
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Ben, Even the 84 HO looks like it would give me more clearance, thanks for the pic. I'll try to locate one and measure it out.
Ryan, thanks again and what other problems do you think I would be looking at?
Ryan, thanks again and what other problems do you think I would be looking at?
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mostly the working angle of your U-joints.
My driveshaft is at 6 degrees. If my engine was level, 6 degrees of working angle is going to have you replacing U-joints pretty frequently. The engine is supposed to be angled 2-3 degrees in most applications.
Beyond that, the trans tunnel/front accessories fit already mentioned.
Why do you want to level everything?
My driveshaft is at 6 degrees. If my engine was level, 6 degrees of working angle is going to have you replacing U-joints pretty frequently. The engine is supposed to be angled 2-3 degrees in most applications.
Beyond that, the trans tunnel/front accessories fit already mentioned.
Why do you want to level everything?