For the past month or so, after backing out of a parking space and putting the shifter into drive, truck does not move. After a few second delay, it seems like the transmission is engaging and then the truck moves.

I noticed this to occur on my commute home from work (25 miles) when stopping at the store.

No problems on short trips from cold tranny.

Couple of days ago I drove 14 miles round trip on city streets and it happened again when I stopped by the store. When I got home, I checked the fluid level,
fluid level is in the middle of the hot mark. I smelled the fluid on the dipstick, and then I smelled a new bottle of ATF Mercon V. There didn't seem to be a difference.

I had purchased all the fluids, filter, etc. a few week prior to the start of this issue, and had planned on doing a complete flush. I'm hesitant to do the flush (wasting money) until I find out if there is bigger problems, or, if it's ok to go ahead with the flush anyway.

Should I be concerned?

Truck has 114,000 miles. I don't know if PO had ever serviced or worked on the tranny. My signature has some info. Future plans will be a heavy duty tranny build, but, not quite ready for that yet. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

 

Does the shift handle seem firm, or does it have some slop to it? A loose linkage could cause this.

It could also be a failing seal in the forward clutch, or loose feed bolts under the valve body.

 

The shift handle still seems firm.

Would the tranny have to be pulled to fix the failing seal, or, to tighten the feed bolts?

 

To replace a seal, yes, the trans has to come out. To tighten the feed bolts, no, it can be done with the trans in place.

 

Just to get clarification, are the feed bolts located on the valve body? I believe I've seen pics of them from another thread.

I learned from other threads that there are codes for transmission issues, would I have to go to a transmission shop only to diagnose, or, would any automotive shop work?

If I pulled the pan to change the filter, while in the process of doing a complete flush, possibly, I could pull the valve body to tighten the feed bolts while I'm there. Any suggestions?

I appreciate all your advice,

Rich

 

They are between the valve body and the case. If you remove the valve body you will see them.

Any GOOD shop will have the right tools. Not all trans shops do, either. If they have the right scan tool they can diagnose the problem.

Yes you can.

I suggest saving your money for the filter. It doesn't need changing. If it does need changing, change the transmission, too, because it died. That's the only time the filter needs to be changed, when the trans is rebuilt.

And reuse the stock pan gasket. It was designed to be reused and is FAR better than the cork gaskets you get from an auto parts store.

 

I bought the filter online already when I purchased the fluids. Since I already got the filter do you still suggest not changing it out?

Thanks,

Rich

 

No, put the new one in since you already have it. Make sure the pickup tube is the same length as the one on the old filter. If not, do not use the new filter.

 

Thanks Mark, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Reps sent.

Rich

 

Started the tranny flush project yesterday. It got late so I figured I'd ask some questions. I posted question in wrong forum.
I'm just a DIYer hobbyist, so, I don't know a lot of the terminology.

I removed the pan, the filter, and I'm going for the valve body. So I removed this part. One of the valve bodies? Is there multiple?


I'm guessing I have to remove the plate that was under this part to get to the feed bolts, but this plate (#1) is underneath other parts.


Do I remove parts #2, 3 and 4 to get that plate? Valve bodies?

Any info is appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

 

On the day of the last post, I separated the lower main valve body from the upper main valve body and the check***** fell off the separator plate.

Uh-oh

Since I'm not a mechanic and it's Saturday afternoon, I am now having a anxiety attack thinking I may not be able to get the transmission back together in time for work on Monday.
I contacted Mark K and asked for help. He responded quick and lead me to a thread that was exactly what I needed to get the tranny back together.
Sunday, I did the complete tranny flush, thanks to JeffreyT's 4r100 A/T Flush thread.

Trucks back on the road, and I'll have to go after the feed bolts at a later date.

Since then, I purchased the ATSG manual and did more thread searching. Found a thread that I had a question on. I contacted Muekster, the one who authored the advice and he replied swiftly with an answer.

I finally had the time to attempt the feed bolt task this past weekend since I was going to have a 3 day weekend. I decided to drain the fluid Thursday night and get started on Friday. In the mornings, it's been low 30's down to high 20's, so I didn't get an early start all weekend.

I got to the point where the Solenoid valve body wouldn't come out, so once again, I asked the question how to remove. Got a few ideas and I went with Mueksters advice, plus, I used a screwdriver to add tension while I twisted the other side of Solenoid. Came right off.



Continuing on. Pulled the Separator plate with the check***** still in place.




I made a template, as a backup, in case the ***** got put of place during the parts cleaning process.



I got to the feed bolts and found the Forward Clutch feed bolt unthreaded 3 turns and the Intermediate Lube feed bolt not even finger tight. I added blue locktite and re-torqued them.

Cleaned all the parts, even all the bolts, with Brakleen and a toothbrush.

I bought all new Check*****, EPC spring and steel ****, (2) Separator plate gaskets. (I may have missed some parts that I could have replaced at the time, but, that's a rookie for ya).



The 'Go Back' was pretty easy, but then I got to the drain bolt. I couldn't find a torque spec for it so I asked Folks of the Forum. They said just 'Tight'. I filled the truck back up with fluid and took the truck for a ride (20 mile round trip run). No leaks.

Now, I'll see if tightening the feed bolts fixed my 'delay in transmission engaging'.

Anyways, Thank You to all, who have shared your input for this rookie to do the job,

Rich

 

It's been almost a month since re-torquing the feed bolts. The shifting is a lot smoother and there is no delay when engaging tranny into gear.

Thanks to those that helped me with their knowledge.

 

Sorry to revive an old thread (I hope you are still listening) but I am contemplating giving this project a try with the transmission still in the truck. My biggest question is concerning the check *****... I assume they all fall out when the valve bodies come off.. How do you get them back in from under the truck?

Thanks

Ed