Terrible Twos on the Seven Threes
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Terrible Twos on the Seven Threes
I was having a small internal crisis after Stinky's latest pinksaster [LINK]... thumbing through Craigslist and all that. He's parked again... until I can get him into the shop on Wednesday. A little homework reminded me of why I took it this far without abandoning ship. Here is one example of what I found:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1242465-sell-your-pos-now.html
I know I'll get past this snot-bubble-blowing phase of 7.3L ownership... but it would be nice to know when Stinky will grow out of the terrible twos. Summer is here and I was supposed to have him reliable by last November.
There's a new aggressive vibration in the truck at light/no acceleration and it starts at about 37 MPH and fades at about 45 MPH. A more assertive acceleration or decelerating gets rid of it. Torque Converter?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1242465-sell-your-pos-now.html
I know I'll get past this snot-bubble-blowing phase of 7.3L ownership... but it would be nice to know when Stinky will grow out of the terrible twos. Summer is here and I was supposed to have him reliable by last November.
There's a new aggressive vibration in the truck at light/no acceleration and it starts at about 37 MPH and fades at about 45 MPH. A more assertive acceleration or decelerating gets rid of it. Torque Converter?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
Hang in there Rich. Alvin went through the same thing. He went for 238k miles with zero engine related issues and then all of a sudden the growing pains appeared.
Around 285k, I decided to pull the HPOP, Turbo pedestal and fuel bowl and replace all the soft parts including new OEM up-pipe donut gaskets.
Been running like a top ever since!
EDIT: Oops! That is not correct. I had a power steering pump failure at 300,400 miles. Other than that....it's been running well.
Here is a video that I made. Purpose was to learn how to post stuff on YouTube but I didn't really have any material so I took a video of the gauges in my truck. Kinda boring actually, but at least I was successful in getting something posted up.
(actually, I had to do it three times before I saw that I needed to change the 'public vs private' settings. ) 
- 236,650 miles radiator cap
- 238,217 loose UVCH
- 243,130 miles ICP sensor
- 243,453 miles #7 injector (loose armature plate)
- 244,022 miles #5 injector (split nozzle)
- 250,243 miles Water Pump
- 257,225 miles belt tensioner
- 261,522 miles FPR
- 267,400 UVCH (burnt center pin)
Around 285k, I decided to pull the HPOP, Turbo pedestal and fuel bowl and replace all the soft parts including new OEM up-pipe donut gaskets.
Been running like a top ever since!
EDIT: Oops! That is not correct. I had a power steering pump failure at 300,400 miles. Other than that....it's been running well.
Here is a video that I made. Purpose was to learn how to post stuff on YouTube but I didn't really have any material so I took a video of the gauges in my truck. Kinda boring actually, but at least I was successful in getting something posted up.
(actually, I had to do it three times before I saw that I needed to change the 'public vs private' settings. ) 
Locomotive breath
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: Mid Oh. Ponderosa
I feel your pain, just last week while in Texas the wife says," why don't we get rid of this thing 'cause diesel is so expensive ." I said, compared to the cost of a new truck it's cheap. I mean your talking 30-40 thousand for even an F-150. More for a super duty.
Sometimes I think my truck knows when I have a little extra to spend that's when something breaks. Lol..
Sometimes I think my truck knows when I have a little extra to spend that's when something breaks. Lol..
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,168
Likes: 10
From: San Ramon Ca.
Years ago I had a 74 Vega station wagon. It was purchased new for my mother. When her mechanic told her it was done I took it home and had it running in about an hour. But anyway I did a coolant change and all the usual stuff. New cap. Radiator leak. New radiator, stat, hoses, coolant (again) etc. Heater core leak. That sucked. So Rich I feel your pain brother. Same darn thing happened on my 86 F-250 6.9 too. Everything all new. Heater core leaked. That really sucked! But I had already replaced the radiator so I only had to do the coolant twice instead of three times. This was when I learned only to run Motorcraft thermostats in Navistar / Ford diesels.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Thanx Tugly,
This thread made my day. I hate to rejoice in another man's agony but I do feel better after reading about the guy with the 08. Even if I do windows 7.3 tomorrow I am $$$ ahead of where he ended up.
Oh sorry about the water pump, I was not referring to your pain lol
I need to rep Greg for the vid it was the icing on the cake.
This thread made my day. I hate to rejoice in another man's agony but I do feel better after reading about the guy with the 08. Even if I do windows 7.3 tomorrow I am $$$ ahead of where he ended up.
Oh sorry about the water pump, I was not referring to your pain lol
I need to rep Greg for the vid it was the icing on the cake.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 0
From: ellensburg
Sorry to hear this Rich, I'll add in though that I just broke the coupler shaft in my twin pumps last week. Stopped the truck dead in the water and wouldnt run. Swapped in my spare 15 degree pump, still dead. Swapped in IPR 1 or my 2 spares, built more pressure, but still not enough to start. Swapped in IPR 2 of my spares, still no start. Finally got a hold of my buddy who I know has a known good spare, and she fired right up. Thank god Joey @ terminator has THE BEST WARRANTY EVER. When he says lifetime warranty, he means it. Bought the duals used last year, and he went through them for free. Got a hold of him this time when the problem first occurred and after talking things through with him figured out that I hadnt tightened one of the mounting bolts all the way to spec (went with stock pump spec, when the duals call for 22ft lbs instead of 18). This loose bolt had caused the internals to weaken, and then when I bounced the truck off the rev limiter the pumps gave it up.
30 dollars for insured flat rate shipping later, and Joey is rebuilding the pumps and sending them back. No charge. Gentlemen, that is what we can customer service and standing by a product!
30 dollars for insured flat rate shipping later, and Joey is rebuilding the pumps and sending them back. No charge. Gentlemen, that is what we can customer service and standing by a product!
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
18k to replace the motor in a 6.4
Right at 10k if you get bad fuel 1 time in a 6.7
Just typing "6.0" says it all on its own...
Your damn right im proud of my 7.3!
Right at 10k if you get bad fuel 1 time in a 6.7
Just typing "6.0" says it all on its own...
Your damn right im proud of my 7.3!
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
From: Central Washington State
Planning to start a 5000+ mile trip the end of this month pulling the 5er, confident that even a total engine failure will not cost $18000.00. Yes I do love my 7.3, enough so that I would replace it with another engine or truck with a 7.3. Let the horror stories continue, I can buy a lot of parts for what a newer truck would cost. Just the thought makes me shudder, but I think I would consider a Duramax before a newer Ford diesel. 204,000 and counting
Last edited by puller45; May 13, 2013 at 09:09 PM. Reason: added text
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,795
Likes: 1,327
From: Elk Grove, CA
I'd hit all that before diving into the deep end on a TC.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Years ago I had a 74 Vega station wagon. It was purchased new for my mother. When her mechanic told her it was done I took it home and had it running in about an hour. But anyway I did a coolant change and all the usual stuff. New cap. Radiator leak. New radiator, stat, hoses, coolant (again) etc. Heater core leak. That sucked. So Rich I feel your pain brother. Same darn thing happened on my 86 F-250 6.9 too. Everything all new. Heater core leaked. That really sucked! But I had already replaced the radiator so I only had to do the coolant twice instead of three times. This was when I learned only to run Motorcraft thermostats in Navistar / Ford diesels.
Since 240K -
- HD4R100
- Manifolds, up pipes, and collector
- 4" exhaust
- DP F6 and many tunes
- T500
- AE
- Three gauges
- Hutch mod
- 4 sets of rotors, pads, calipers, and two sets of park brake parts
- Two sets of injectors (reman stage IIs, then finally swap for new stage IIs)
- Many, many rounds of Whack-A-Mole (injectors wouldn't stay torqued down)
- Billet plenums, all CAC boots, and a bunch of clamps
- 38r (just an upgrade, the turbo was the only thing still working right on the truck)
- Water pump (did the whole cooling system while in there)
- Injector cups
- A TS tuner and a few tunes
- Another gauge
- UVCH & gaskets, both sides.
- Rebuilt driveline
Palmer, we still need to set a time to do some electrical and some gauge stuff to your truck.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
First thoughts are u joints (most likely) and carrier bearing. Set it in park with the e brake off. Lay down under your beloved Stinky and wrap a hand gently but firmly around the shaft at the u joint. Turn up the Barry White. Have a couple burly blokes rock Stinky forward and back and feel the motion at the u joint. Looking is good but your hands are more sensitive to fine motion. Ditto the carrier bearing. A bit of relative motion is normal but if it qualifies as slop there is a problem. Those parts had good miles on them before Stinky was bum-rushed, some lingering trauma is to be expected. If it needs replacing I'm a fan of OEM or genuine Spicer here, but options include new aluminum one piece shafts and taking it to a pro. A real driveline guy can make it like new. Make sure he zip ties the boot back on. I'd hit all that before diving into the deep end on a TC.
I'd hit all that before diving into the deep end on a TC.I am in many situations where a play on words are a specific type of innuendo, and I figured I may as well say this: While not being prejudice or judgmental, my heterometer is pegged to the right.
I agree the work mentioned should be done, that's why I took it to a driveline pro and I watched him completely rebuild and spin-balance the driveline... when there was snow on the ground.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
... Alvin has a respectable set of scars there, I'd have to tally mine up to see where we stand.[/FONT]
Since 240K -
Since 240K -
- HD4R100
- Manifolds, up pipes, and collector
- 4" exhaust
- DP F6 and many tunes
- T500
- AE
- Three gauges
- Hutch mod
- 4 sets of rotors, pads, calipers, and two sets of park brake parts
- Two sets of injectors (reman stage IIs, then finally swap for new stage IIs)
- Many, many rounds of Whack-A-Mole (injectors wouldn't stay torqued down)
- Billet plenums, all CAC boots, and a bunch of clamps
- 38r (just an upgrade, the turbo was the only thing still working right on the truck)
- Water pump (did the whole cooling system while in there)
- Injector cups
- A TS tuner and a few tunes
- Another gauge
- UVCH & gaskets, both sides.
- Rebuilt driveline
Would the red items be all that is left if you purge the self imposed modifications? I left the 4 sets of rotors and pads in there because that is extreme. How do you go through so many sets of rotors? I am still on my original OEM rotors. Pads have been changed plenty of times but the rotors are original.
