I have drained and flushed about 5 times and the stuff keeps coming out a puke yellow color.
It must be really dirty in the cooling system.

 

Are you pulling the block plugs and are you running the heater? Two places coolant sits...

 

Have you removed the thermostat?

 

How many gallons are coming out at a time? I was pulling out almost 5 a drain with the driver's block plug and the radiator draining, and mine looked like this:

If you're only draining the radiator I could see you doubling this easily.

 

Bryan: You are one of the BEST at showing pictures of what you're talking about! I tried to rep you, but I'm still in the penalty box...

 

It could be rusty water usually a touch to orange color

If you used cleaner with thermostat INSTALLED you could have Dumped it on the ground to get the same affect

I have flushed my ttruck 4 diffrent times now used VC-9 cleaner each time

I left thermostat in 1 time I must have flushed 30+ times BUT it would NEVER come clear

When I used VC-9 cleaner and Also pulled the thermostat for cleaning processs dump in cleaner and set truck to High Idel (1100rpm)in my driveway it cleaned it Good by the 4th or 5th Flush it was Crystall clear coming out

You also must do what these guys are saying Pullen block drains and Lower radiator hoses

You can even go 1 step further and when all the cooling hoses are apart take your garden hose and reverse flush heater and block I just let hose run awhile like this


BTW after AL this^^^My Oil Cooler was plugged
But I figured that before since the test was failed for oil cooler so I Planned to change OIL Cooler when it flushed clean

Good Luck

 

Oh 1 more thing DO NOT leave water in it for to long they will rust again Very Fast

 

Question then: If you are pulling the thermostatd prior to flushing, then there really isn't a reason to let it fully warm up or to run it for very long, right? So how long do you run it between flushes... 5 minutes? Thanks!

 

Are you looking to do a chemical flush with VC9 or Restore ... or are you just replacing the old coolant with clean water, and then replacing the clean water with fresh coolant?

 

That picture is amazing of coolant flush and what came out of a 6.0.

 

Good Question: I just hit 100000 miles and kind of have the guilts about not flushing my system yet. I'm thinking that now I should do it soon, and based on past reading and discussions here will probably go to ELC. As such, I need to do a really good flush. I just got my Dashboss going and have not had the opportunity to get a good check on my delta yet, so I really don't know if I have a problem, but frankly for whatever reason I don't think I do. At this point I am just planning to flush and go to ELC... but we'll see. I suppose that the only reason to do a VC9 flush is if I seem to be developing a problem, right... Or should I do it anyway, just to make sure the system is really clean?

 

I'd only do VC-9 if you're willing to replace the oil cooler, or if you're seeing a temp difference that is forcing you to change the oil cooler. VC-9 will remove scale and rust, but Fleetguard Restore is what will clean out the silicates left over from the Ford Gold coolant. I would do Restore before switching from Ford Gold to a silicate-free ELC, but again, there's always the chance with any flush of nuking the oil cooler. If you commit to changing the oil cooler, I'd do both.

The chem flush process sucks because to do it the quickest and most effectively, you need to pull the t-stat to flush from original coolant to water, reinstall for the first chem flush, remove t-stat to flush from 1st chem to water, reinstall for the 2nd chem flush, then remove for the 2nd chem flush to water. So yes, the t-stat goes in and out three times basically. The t-stat being out helps you do the flushes much much faster, but to make the chems work you need to get it hot, so the t-stat has to go back in while you drive it for an hour or two to get it hot.

On the 05+ trucks it's not so bad because you can snake the upper radiator hose out with the t-stat housing attached by just removing two bolts and a hose clamp. On earlier trucks where the EPB bracket is on top of the t-stat housing bolts, you have to go in deeper to install/remove. Not a huge pain, just more time and more junk to move.

Correct, with no t-stat turn the truck on (I high idle it) and let it circulate for 5 minutes or so. Kill it, drain fill, repeat.

Some guys apparently power flush by putting a hose into the degas bottle and opening fumoto valves in the block drains. I've never done it, I guess I'd be leary of either not getting enough water back in fast enough, or overflowing the degas and spraying water all over all the electrical components on the side of the engine. Maybe someone can do a power-flush specific write up for us.

 

 

As long as the garden hose has sufficient flow it isn't an issue at all to open all drains and run the water in the degas with the engine running.

I personally think this is by far the best way to flush the system, with the t-stat removed of course.

Josh

 

So do you just mess with the flow out of the hose with a nozzle so it doesn't overflow? Cause that would work great, just let it go until the water comes out clean and start the next round of chemical flushes.