1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Steering wheel with lots of Play.

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Old 02-25-2013, 06:58 PM
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Steering wheel with lots of Play.

Ok so lately I have been driving my dad's 86 F150 4x4 302 and I noticed there is tons of play in the steering wheel. I know the PO and he said the steering box and never been tightended. So I am figuring that's what is wrong but me and my dad don't know where or how to do this. We are kinda stubborn and won't bring it to a mechanic so does anybody have the patience to tell me what to do?
Thanks in advance y'all
Trav
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:28 PM
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My best advice is to not go there, as you will end up losing road feel and/or the return-to-center functionality.

You should do some actual diagnosis before changing anything IMHO.

There are periodic Group Buys of Red Head remanufactured steering boxes here on FTE, these have got a really good reputation, even with grumpy, old, former FoMoCo employees.

Originally Posted by NumberDummy
They are the "stock unit" but are improved.

For example, the Ford/Saginaw integral P/S gearboxes have a built in flaw. There are no bearings on the sector shaft, it rides directly on the housing.

Before too long, fluid begins leaking from the sector shaft seal. Autoparts store so-called 'rebuilt' gearboxes are nothing more than resealed gearboxes.

Red Head takes the housing, machines it, installs the needle bearings that Ford left out...on purpose in order to sell a gazillion seal kits.

Myriad different versions of this P/S gearbox were used from 1965 thru 2002 on many FoMoCo vehicles. The input & sector shaft seal kits are the same for all of them.
Here is the Group Buy from last March:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...group-buy.html

And here's the one from last December:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-box-buy.html
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:33 PM
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so tightening it up is probably not the best idea huh? It has probably a 1/2" or a little more of play in the steering wheel frankly it is driving me nuts and really starting to drive my dad nuts.
Trav
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:40 PM
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Hopefully, Gary Lewis will chime in and say more.

I tried it once on my 1970 Mustang when I was your age... bad mistake, wish I had never gone there. Ended up having a mechanic at a steering & alignment shop adjust it "correctly" but it was never the same again.

Investigate your front end and all the other components that can cause a loose steering wheel ("rag joint" (if equipped), etc.) don't just go after something mechanical in the typical dumba**-male fashion (no offense intended, just making general remarks about guys as a whole) thinking you're gonna "fix" it.... you won't.
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:53 PM
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Well the PO of our truck was a mechanic and he said that's what the things sound like but hey he can be wrong (he has been before). Anyways I will see what Garry says. Thanks a lot for your help ctubutis (sorry can't remember your name if you told me it)
Trav
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:18 PM
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Have you checked the tierod ends and draglink for play? That is where I would start and give the balljoints a good testing too.
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:19 PM
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XJ and Chris are both right. (Chris, thanks for the heads-up. I'm not reading new threads while I'm traveling so would have missed it.)

You do need to have someone turn the wheel just enough to take out the slack and see where it is. But, if you've done that and the problem is in the sector box you are ready for a replacement. Yes, there is an adjustment on it but in my experience you have two choices - slop with feel or tight and no feel. I have tried on more than one truck and cannot find a setting that bridges the gap.

Having said that, it doesn't cost much to try. There is a large screw on top of the box with a lock nut around it. Before you start make SURE you know exactly where it currently is. Not approximately, but exactly. Then, holding the screw with a screwdriver so it doesn't turn, loosen the lock nut. Next turn the screw clockwise 1/8th turn and tighten the nut while holding the screw so it doesn't move. Take it for a spin. I'll bet it is either still sloppy or w/o feel. If sloppy try another 1/8th turn. If w/o feel you can try backing the screw off 1/16th turn but I doubt it will help. Good luck.
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:36 PM
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If you're going to go there, I agree - mark it EXACTLY - and hope for the best.
 
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:45 PM
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I've been able to get back to where it was, meaning that returning the screw to the original position did restore the original feel - and slop.
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by xjfever
Have you checked the tierod ends and draglink for play? That is where I would start and give the balljoints a good testing too.
XjFever I had these checked about a year and a half or so ago at a mechanic shop (I didn't want to send it there but I was so busy and the brakes were shot I had no choice) Anyways they checked out fine but this truck does get heavy usage and does haul and drives backroads (5 miles) close to everyday if not every other day so these parts could have gotten wore out after time not sure. But after the brake job the tires were toed in it looked like we still drove till now and it finally about a month ago came back to place but we didn't have abnormal wear on the tire so maybe this could have caused the play I am not sure I am young still and learning mechanics I more of work on motorcycles. I thank you for your help.
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
XJ and Chris are both right. (Chris, thanks for the heads-up. I'm not reading new threads while I'm traveling so would have missed it.)

You do need to have someone turn the wheel just enough to take out the slack and see where it is. But, if you've done that and the problem is in the sector box you are ready for a replacement. Yes, there is an adjustment on it but in my experience you have two choices - slop with feel or tight and no feel. I have tried on more than one truck and cannot find a setting that bridges the gap.

Having said that, it doesn't cost much to try. There is a large screw on top of the box with a lock nut around it. Before you start make SURE you know exactly where it currently is. Not approximately, but exactly. Then, holding the screw with a screwdriver so it doesn't turn, loosen the lock nut. Next turn the screw clockwise 1/8th turn and tighten the nut while holding the screw so it doesn't move. Take it for a spin. I'll bet it is either still sloppy or w/o feel. If sloppy try another 1/8th turn. If w/o feel you can try backing the screw off 1/16th turn but I doubt it will help. Good luck.
Thanks for the instructions Garry I watch your build thread and know you are a good help (not that anybody else isn't). I thank you for helping me while on vacation. My dad would help me on this project and he is precise about remembering how it was originally so that won't be a problem. I will try this as soon as it warms up and the snow is gone (and the house isn't taking my time). If not will say what is going on in this thread again and see. Thanks a bunch everybody.
Trav
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:58 PM
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Iwould lay under the front of the truck and have someone else turn the wheel slowly back and forth. Watch all the tierod ends and draglink to make sure there is no play in them at all. If there is replace them first before adjusting the steering box. The knuckle should move with the rods and no rod movement without the knuckle moving. The ball joints can be tested by jacking one side up and placing a crowbar or prybar under the tire and lifting it. there should be zero play there as well.
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by xjfever
Iwould lay under the front of the truck and have someone else turn the wheel slowly back and forth. Watch all the tierod ends and draglink to make sure there is no play in them at all. If there is replace them first before adjusting the steering box. The knuckle should move with the rods and no rod movement without the knuckle moving. The ball joints can be tested by jacking one side up and placing a crowbar or prybar under the tire and lifting it. there should be zero play there as well.
Reps to you, XJ. Well said. That is exactly the thing to do.
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:28 PM
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I will try all those before anything but remember I have to wait a while it is muddy and all I will check when I do the oil and all that. Do y'all think it will hurt anything driving it still I mean I only drive it to town and back which is like 20 miles one way and probably lately 3 times a week sometimes less (we have 2 other running trucks).
Trav
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:14 PM
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I don't think it will hurt anything on the truck. The only possible thing that could get hurt is you if something like a tie-rod end or ball joint lets go. So, not knowing what the problem is we can't say if it is safe or not.
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:18 PM
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Well I have had a break on me before and I know the signs of right when it is about to break (if it is the same as a 2wd 85 Chevy van). I should be getting our Bronco 2 running soon and I will be driving that more often so it shouldn't be a problem.
Trav
 


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