Steering wheel with lots of Play.
#1
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Steering wheel with lots of Play.
Ok so lately I have been driving my dad's 86 F150 4x4 302 and I noticed there is tons of play in the steering wheel. I know the PO and he said the steering box and never been tightended. So I am figuring that's what is wrong but me and my dad don't know where or how to do this. We are kinda stubborn and won't bring it to a mechanic so does anybody have the patience to tell me what to do?
Thanks in advance y'all
Trav
Thanks in advance y'all
Trav
#2
My best advice is to not go there, as you will end up losing road feel and/or the return-to-center functionality.
You should do some actual diagnosis before changing anything IMHO.
There are periodic Group Buys of Red Head remanufactured steering boxes here on FTE, these have got a really good reputation, even with grumpy, old, former FoMoCo employees.![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Here is the Group Buy from last March:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...group-buy.html
And here's the one from last December:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-box-buy.html
You should do some actual diagnosis before changing anything IMHO.
There are periodic Group Buys of Red Head remanufactured steering boxes here on FTE, these have got a really good reputation, even with grumpy, old, former FoMoCo employees.
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
They are the "stock unit" but are improved.
For example, the Ford/Saginaw integral P/S gearboxes have a built in flaw.
There are no bearings on the sector shaft, it rides directly on the housing.
Before too long, fluid begins leaking from the sector shaft seal. Autoparts store so-called 'rebuilt' gearboxes are nothing more than resealed gearboxes.
Red Head takes the housing, machines it, installs the needle bearings that Ford left out...on purpose in order to sell a gazillion seal kits.
Myriad different versions of this P/S gearbox were used from 1965 thru 2002 on many FoMoCo vehicles. The input & sector shaft seal kits are the same for all of them.
For example, the Ford/Saginaw integral P/S gearboxes have a built in flaw.
![Real Angry](images/smilies2/mad.gif)
Before too long, fluid begins leaking from the sector shaft seal. Autoparts store so-called 'rebuilt' gearboxes are nothing more than resealed gearboxes.
Red Head takes the housing, machines it, installs the needle bearings that Ford left out...on purpose in order to sell a gazillion seal kits.
Myriad different versions of this P/S gearbox were used from 1965 thru 2002 on many FoMoCo vehicles. The input & sector shaft seal kits are the same for all of them.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...group-buy.html
And here's the one from last December:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-box-buy.html
#4
Hopefully, Gary Lewis will chime in and say more. ![Smilie](images/smilies/happy0161.gif)
I tried it once on my 1970 Mustang when I was your age... bad mistake, wish I had never gone there. Ended up having a mechanic at a steering & alignment shop adjust it "correctly" but it was never the same again.
Investigate your front end and all the other components that can cause a loose steering wheel ("rag joint" (if equipped), etc.) don't just go after something mechanical in the typical dumba**-male fashion (no offense intended, just making general remarks about guys as a whole) thinking you're gonna "fix" it.... you won't.
![Smilie](images/smilies/happy0161.gif)
I tried it once on my 1970 Mustang when I was your age... bad mistake, wish I had never gone there. Ended up having a mechanic at a steering & alignment shop adjust it "correctly" but it was never the same again.
Investigate your front end and all the other components that can cause a loose steering wheel ("rag joint" (if equipped), etc.) don't just go after something mechanical in the typical dumba**-male fashion (no offense intended, just making general remarks about guys as a whole) thinking you're gonna "fix" it.... you won't.
#7
XJ and Chris are both right. (Chris, thanks for the heads-up. I'm not reading new threads while I'm traveling so would have missed it.)
You do need to have someone turn the wheel just enough to take out the slack and see where it is. But, if you've done that and the problem is in the sector box you are ready for a replacement. Yes, there is an adjustment on it but in my experience you have two choices - slop with feel or tight and no feel. I have tried on more than one truck and cannot find a setting that bridges the gap.
Having said that, it doesn't cost much to try. There is a large screw on top of the box with a lock nut around it. Before you start make SURE you know exactly where it currently is. Not approximately, but exactly. Then, holding the screw with a screwdriver so it doesn't turn, loosen the lock nut. Next turn the screw clockwise 1/8th turn and tighten the nut while holding the screw so it doesn't move. Take it for a spin. I'll bet it is either still sloppy or w/o feel. If sloppy try another 1/8th turn. If w/o feel you can try backing the screw off 1/16th turn but I doubt it will help. Good luck.
You do need to have someone turn the wheel just enough to take out the slack and see where it is. But, if you've done that and the problem is in the sector box you are ready for a replacement. Yes, there is an adjustment on it but in my experience you have two choices - slop with feel or tight and no feel. I have tried on more than one truck and cannot find a setting that bridges the gap.
Having said that, it doesn't cost much to try. There is a large screw on top of the box with a lock nut around it. Before you start make SURE you know exactly where it currently is. Not approximately, but exactly. Then, holding the screw with a screwdriver so it doesn't turn, loosen the lock nut. Next turn the screw clockwise 1/8th turn and tighten the nut while holding the screw so it doesn't move. Take it for a spin. I'll bet it is either still sloppy or w/o feel. If sloppy try another 1/8th turn. If w/o feel you can try backing the screw off 1/16th turn but I doubt it will help. Good luck.
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#10
Join Date: Mar 2011
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![Huh?](images/smilies2/confused.gif)
XJ and Chris are both right. (Chris, thanks for the heads-up. I'm not reading new threads while I'm traveling so would have missed it.)
You do need to have someone turn the wheel just enough to take out the slack and see where it is. But, if you've done that and the problem is in the sector box you are ready for a replacement. Yes, there is an adjustment on it but in my experience you have two choices - slop with feel or tight and no feel. I have tried on more than one truck and cannot find a setting that bridges the gap.
Having said that, it doesn't cost much to try. There is a large screw on top of the box with a lock nut around it. Before you start make SURE you know exactly where it currently is. Not approximately, but exactly. Then, holding the screw with a screwdriver so it doesn't turn, loosen the lock nut. Next turn the screw clockwise 1/8th turn and tighten the nut while holding the screw so it doesn't move. Take it for a spin. I'll bet it is either still sloppy or w/o feel. If sloppy try another 1/8th turn. If w/o feel you can try backing the screw off 1/16th turn but I doubt it will help. Good luck.
You do need to have someone turn the wheel just enough to take out the slack and see where it is. But, if you've done that and the problem is in the sector box you are ready for a replacement. Yes, there is an adjustment on it but in my experience you have two choices - slop with feel or tight and no feel. I have tried on more than one truck and cannot find a setting that bridges the gap.
Having said that, it doesn't cost much to try. There is a large screw on top of the box with a lock nut around it. Before you start make SURE you know exactly where it currently is. Not approximately, but exactly. Then, holding the screw with a screwdriver so it doesn't turn, loosen the lock nut. Next turn the screw clockwise 1/8th turn and tighten the nut while holding the screw so it doesn't move. Take it for a spin. I'll bet it is either still sloppy or w/o feel. If sloppy try another 1/8th turn. If w/o feel you can try backing the screw off 1/16th turn but I doubt it will help. Good luck.
Trav
#11
Iwould lay under the front of the truck and have someone else turn the wheel slowly back and forth. Watch all the tierod ends and draglink to make sure there is no play in them at all. If there is replace them first before adjusting the steering box. The knuckle should move with the rods and no rod movement without the knuckle moving. The ball joints can be tested by jacking one side up and placing a crowbar or prybar under the tire and lifting it. there should be zero play there as well.
#12
Iwould lay under the front of the truck and have someone else turn the wheel slowly back and forth. Watch all the tierod ends and draglink to make sure there is no play in them at all. If there is replace them first before adjusting the steering box. The knuckle should move with the rods and no rod movement without the knuckle moving. The ball joints can be tested by jacking one side up and placing a crowbar or prybar under the tire and lifting it. there should be zero play there as well.
#13
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I will try all those before anything but remember I have to wait a while it is muddy and all I will check when I do the oil and all that. Do y'all think it will hurt anything driving it still I mean I only drive it to town and back which is like 20 miles one way and probably lately 3 times a week sometimes less (we have 2 other running trucks).
Trav
Trav
#14