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I have just bought a 350 it was a no start then i used a jumper wire to find out it was the fender soliniod. I drove home stopped for fuel and part source got home left it for about an hour now wont start wont jump at starter or at fender soliniod i have constant power to the switch wire with key in on position instead of start even with the key out heater works and all under hood fuses with no key in the ignition
hope you can help
shes bone stock bare bones f350 crew long box 2wd auto with7.3 78000 on motor and 458000 on the rest
have you checked all your fuses under the dash with a multi meter to see if their good. is it cranking over and just not firing or nothing. also make sure your battiers are fully chrged. these trucks need at least 10.5 volts to fire the idm or that wont ley it start either.
its a no crank im geting power to the upper solinoid all the time and its cooked it again the triger wire from the the cab its only supposed to have power when starting
oh, trigger wires hot all the time. i'm just guessing now but , you could look at the wires around the steering column for chaffed wires. hang with us ,someone will be along to help alittle more. wiring is not my fortay so to say.
Is the trigger wire hot with it disconnected or are u checking it connected to new solenoid? Could be a backfeed...Unfortunately, If both big lugs are hot too, the starter is probably toast now.
The mechanism is a little different on the column and the solenoid is a different type, but it works the same as the camper special to start.
ok is there anything between the key switch and the solinoid on the fire wall in needs a new steering colom anyway so a ignition switch isnt a big deal and yes the starter and the new solinoid are fried now so i need to find out why the trigger wire is always hot
rd/lb wire on the ignition switch connector should gain power when turned to start, after that it goes thru the clutch pedal jumper wire ( if automatic) or clutch switch if manual, and then thru the neutral safety switch out to the relay on the firewall. That's the whole circuit there.
U may also try pulling fuse 28 out of the cab fuse box just for ****s and giggles and see if that takes the power from the wire. You cannot drive the truck with that removed but I would be curious to see. If that goes out, then the range selector switch on side of trans is leaching power from the b/u light circuit to the start circuit.
well it just got warm here and i have found a leak the fuse panel is full of water and all the wiring under the dash is soaked so that my be the more likly problem good deal turned nightmare fast things you dont find at minus 20
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