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To change, or not to change the ATF after 150K+ miles?
Ok so I picked up a 1997 F150 4x4 about 2 years ago. At that time it had about 150,000 miles on it and very little service records to go with it. I am now approaching the 170,000 mark and I am trying to decide if it would be a good, or a bad idea to change the fluid in the auto transmission.
I have heard that when an auto trans gets up there in miles, sometimes it’s not a good idea to change the fluid because all the detergents in the new fluid can cause the trans to slip.
The current fluid doesn't look too bad but it doesn’t look perfect either.
Also, I understand the 97 F150 has a removable plug in the torque converter as well. If I were to do the change should I bother with the converter or no?
Here's what I have done on every vehicle (auto trans) that I have owned for 30 years....
At 20k miles, I change the filter (due to possible residual/initial wear particulates that may be floating inside) and either drain the torque converter (if so equipped with a plug) or disconnect the trans cooler line at the radiator, fill the pan with fresh fluid, my wife starts the engine and when 2-3 quarts drain into a bucket, she shuts it off, I refill the pan and repeat until the fluid is clear and in case of the f150, 14 quarts of fresh fluid is in.
I change only the fluid after that (unless I determine substances/contamination in the oil). The intervals vary depending on the type of trans, type of fluid and conditions, but in general, every 30k miles. Heat is a killer on automatic trans fluid and when we lived in the desert area, I changed the trans fluid at the end of summer every year.
In regards to filters, oem is fine, but I typically use Wix.
In regards to trans oil, both in sticks and autos I have always used Valvoline.
I have also never had a trans failure in any vehicle I own and typically keep my vehicles for 10+ years, with over 100k on the odometer.
I dont see how you can disagree with changing oil in ANYTHING, getting the goo and crud out and making sure valves and spools dont stick due to contamination. I think the problem comes in when guys do a FLUSH and spread the crap everywhere inside. I do similar to Beech.. drop the pan and you get 5 quarts out. Wipe off the valve body, clean the pan and magnet, and change the filter. Plug on the converter will drain the other 8 quarts. you can bar over the motor with a 18 inch screw driver on the flywheel teeth. It kind of looks like a 1/8 inch pipe plug (but its not). Loctite it back in when done. refill with 13-14 quarts and ready to go with good, fresh addatives.. Do not "flush" with a pressue unit.
So if I do drain the converter also, is there any danger in that initial startup when the converter is "dry"?
I don't know a ton about the auto trans but I think the fluid will simply pump its way back into the converter once the motor is running. Does that sound correct or do I need to replace the converter fluid the same way it came out? (through the drain plug)
i poured in 7 quarts, started motor and ran 30 seconds. Shut down and did it again. You dont want the transmission running over with 14 quarts, and your right, the pump will refill the converter in less than a minute.
They say if the fluid has never been changed to not touch it, or you have a chance of your transmission going. If this is true or not, i do not know. However if at needs to be drained if you are lucky enough to have a plug can simply drain it. The fluid will remain in converter unless by chance it has a plug on it. Most do not. If no plug start in one side remove bolts and loosen rest as so pan does not blow out oil all over once drained pop off pan clean magnet pop new filter in place reverse procedure. I would advise rtv. Make sure to not over, or under fill fluid.
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