This forum has helped me fix many issues that have cropped up on my 2003 EB 5.4 2WD. The truck is now creeping up on 140k miles, I have kept it much longer than I ever thought...gets terrible gas mileage but just keeps on going and going.

Here's my dilemma, I know it needs new shocks (no air suspension), I also assume it could use new upper/lower ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, etc., etc., anything that wears out in the suspension.

Here's where I could use the advice, I've never done major suspension work in the past but I've tackled large jobs sucessfully and received satisfaction from doing it myself. I am comtemplating doing as follows:

-new shock and spring assembly on the corners
-new upper control arms (the ball joints cannot be placed I think)
-new lower control arms (seems almost as cheap as buying all the parts and saves the problem of pressing in/out the bushings)
-new tie rod endss, idler arm, pitman arm, etc.

Is this something that a general home auto mechanic could tackle without major issues? Are there complexities I should be aware of, I know some of the bolts on the rears shock are a bear to reach. Are there other parts I should replace (sway bar ends, other bushings?)

Based upon Rock Auto and other part suppliers I'm estimating $800-1000 in parts if I do the work myself. Is this a good investment if I only plan to keep the truck another year, or should I just leave it alone?

Thanks in advance for advice or thoughts.

 

This is a pretty straightforward job that anyone with a little mechanical skill should be able to do in a day out in the driveway. I'd only change the shocks, upper control arms, and lower ball joints at first (rent the press from the auto parts store and it's pretty easy). Do one item at a time and when you have the outer tie rod end separated from the spindle for the lower ball joint replacement, you can wiggle them around and see what tie rod ends actually need to be replaced. As far as the sway bar bushings, it will be pretty obvious if they are broken or even missing they need replacement.
Don't use a pickle fork to separate the ball joints and tie rod ends, just remove the nut use a jack, clamp or pry bar to apply some downward pressure and hit the side of the area where the joint is and they usually pop right apart. Now I live in FL but if you are in the rust belt it may take a lot more effort to get those things apart.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

 

Max your right on with the ball joint/pickelfork technique Ive done hundreds in upstate NY (both professionally and at home) and it works every time even with our salt and rust.

 

OK, I think this could be a good opportunity to introduce my 15 year old son to some auto mechanics. I took a look at what needs to be done and even though this may not be the cheapest way to get the work done it looks like it may the the easiest on me. I'm going to replace the upper and lower control arms with new units from MevoTech as well as the tie rod ends. I'll also replace the shocks and springs with new spring assemblies and the rotors and brake pads while I've got everything apart. Both front wheel hubs have already been replaced.

I live in Houston so nothing is rusted underneath. However, I crawled under the truck the other day and it looked like the bushings were in pretty rough shape too, the ball joints are pretty much gone.

I think I'll need to buy some large deep metric sockets as some of the nuts are larger than any of my std. sockets. Other than the sockets I think I'm in pretty good shape. I have all the torque specs and a big breaker bar (the shock bolt is spec'd at 199 ft lbs) as it appears that some of these bolts are going to be tough to loosen.

I don't know about these alignment kits, is this something I should order as well? Also, should I keep all the control arm alignment shims in exactly the same places or just let the alignment shop put in new ones?

Thx for your responses and advice.

 

After thinking it over, I decided not to take a chance on lower end/priced parts. I went with the Raybestos Professional grade parts for the upper and lower control arms and Motorcraft for the tie rod ends. I did go with the Leacree strut assemblies which were least expensive. Total cost delivered from RockAuto of $860. I'll let you know how the install goes.

I decided to not mess with pressing out/in the bushings and ball joints, costs a little mosre but a lot less hassle.

 

Good move with the Raybestos control arms/ball joints. I had bad luck with the Moog ball joints I used the first time. The Moog boots shredded in a little over a year. Seemed they were more more plastic than rubber. No issues with the Raybestos ones.