i have a 1984 bronco with 8.8 in rear and dana 44ttb in front..it has a 354 ring and pinion..im putting 411s in....i nead help...directions ,,measurement ...help

 

im new...help

 

That's the kind of thing you should read over real well a couple of times in a good shop manual before you dive in.

 

i know backlash..tourque..i run a machineshop ..ijust dont know a way to have everything i need before i start???

 

Sounds like you need a manual to give the specs and procedures. Then buy all the parts before you start. If you do not know what parts, the parts store can guide you.

Not sure what you are looking for here. I am sure the procedure is listed on this site somewhere.

 

contact Randys Ring an Pinion. they will help you get all the info and tell you what tools you need to complete this setup.

what tires are you going to be running?

 

bronco 302..new c6 with transpro kit..just cam headers carb gear drive, nothing fancy ..i have 35 bfg tires on there now..evrything i own or have built has been low ...these 354s this bronco wont even get out of its own way.....

 

do you drive this on the freeway much? if not i would recommend 4.56 gears.

let us know your plans for the rig and how it gets used?

 

3.55s to 4.11s don't seem like much, especially for a 302 with 35s.. and when I regear I'm going with at least 4.56, probably taller (4.88s or in the 5s? not sure) with a 351w.
you'll have to have a new carrier for your Dana 44 unless you have special small carrier 4.11s already (thicker than normal).
So if you haven't bought the gears yet, go with 4.56s since you'll have the buy the new carrier in your front for 4.11s anyways.

You're gonna go from about 2200rpms to 3000RPMs at 65 with 4.56s in a c6, not exactly comfortable, but it's only 250rpms higher than 4.11s

Though I get what you're saying about gears.. I don't like my 351w with 33s. After building it up some, and fixing quite a few problems it's soo much better than I thought it could be, but still not great on power.

 

IMO, I would just spend the money and have a shop do the swap...I believe the Bronco Graveyard will rebuild/set up the TTB and 9" 3rd members. or you can buy one outright all set with the LS/locker of your choice. I know how to and have set up rear ends...I do not like doing it. very tedious and frustrating at times. So if you have not done it before...and you want to do it urself. I would have someone with you who has the knowledge to guide ya.
Im runnin 4.09/4.10s right now in my 88',351w, 31X10.50s with a C6 lol...def not a highway cruiser lol, 55 im turning a hair under 2700rpms. She came from the factory with the H9 axles: 3.55s with Traction-Lok rear. the PO swapped gears in her at some point. and for just 210hp/315ft lbs from the factory...she moved and destroyed the 31s lol...i caught and passed my buddys 310hp 5.3 silverado...and now shes built...400hp territiry now, so I cant wait until im done puttin her back together

 

so Boss, how do you expect the speed density efi to handle the motor upgrades? or have you already planned on swapping to mass air and an A9L or A9P ecu?

 

Kem, Heres the background on her. I bought it from a landlord who owned property in Tenn. One of his renters was the owner of the truck and he owed back rent. So the Landlord took the Bronco for payment. and it sat untouched for 3yrs after he took it. I can only assume something with the F.I went wrong because it was a mess under the hood lol. the PO had dropped an old Iron 2bbl intake with a 4bbl adapter and 600 4bbl Edelbrock carb. the PCM was still plugged in, and was still using the TFI dizzy...upon tearing into it we found out along the way that the timing was 180 out...after a couple backfires out the carb and blowing out the emmisions fitting clean off the right manifold lol. Both factory fuel pumps were still running to the carb with no regulator as well...Yea...some people should not be allowed to touch ANYTHING and it only had 49k miles on it!!

I converted it to a Blue-tab Duraspark II with a factory vac adv. dizzy...I eventually dropped a Wieand intake...with the 2bbl one she fall flat on her face and break her nose at only 3000rpm. and I installed a aftermarket elec. pump using the factory relay. But the crank ended up walking to much and blew out the rear and front main seals

Now: New crank, bored .040 over(358 cu. in), stock stoke, Keith Black forged w/ 4 valve reliefs, ARP Rod and head studs, crank balanced, factory rods balanced and lightened, block decked, 93 Lightning GT40s ported and polished, 194 and 160? valves, Crane double valve springs, 5 angle valve job, still using my Wieand Stealth aluminum dual plan intake, Comp cam hydraulic flat tappet .493 and .512 lift. MSD 6A, Hedman Full-lenght Elite headers...will be full 2.5 inch all the way back with Dynomax UltraFlos and hopefully some cutouts as well to really make the neighbors hate me
My C6 fully rebuilt with a Shift kit, new modulator, E4OD 1st gear, Towtruck clutch drum, Redline bands, and frictions/steels, 11in 2g stall converter. built by friend who has been racing and build trans for drag cars for over 30yrs.

 

Duh I forgot...my compression is 9.5:1...could bumped it to 9.7:1, but they would had to deck the block another .010-.020s

 

nice you should delete this and start a build thread in the forum. like what i see. bummer you didnt stay with efi but understandable.

 

Thanks Kem, And its not that I didnt want EFI...it just would have been a PITA to track down and rewire everything. And at the time I didnt have the finances availble for that. And this was a chance to have my first Carbed vehicle, to test my skills...and a test it was lol. and Im happy with the direction Ive gone with it. But yes I think i will start a build thread, thanks for the idea