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The price or R12 has reached and passed its peak. Now, the only people desiring to use it are restoration fanatics{not meant in any sort of negative way}. Very few original R12 systems are on the road.
I would think that there must be more than an evacuate and re-charge at the $900 mark. Any parts being replaced? I would expect that a lot of the original A/C parts are now made of unobtainium, and very hard to find in good shape.
Last time, years ago when it was still very popular, I think I paid $30 a # for R12, and it should be less now.
tom
I'm running the generic R12 in my Thunderbird. Just had it recharger for $60.00. True it's not as cold as R12, but when I convert to 134 it going to be a complete change.
I am still running (and enjoying the colder air) of R-12 on a couple rigs.
I found 4 of the 5lbs bottles of R-12 at a estate sale and snapped them up cheap.......Keep your eyes open, its still out there and available cheap if your lucky.
ummm, he said he could do that.... for 1500 dollars, i have taken my truck to this guy for over 15 years so i do think he is honest, i have been in cars with the 134 system and in my opinion they do not cool and much as my r 12 system does
here is a couple of links for you to check out , and i have seen some conversions that worked pretty good and did not have all that much invested ! whoever told you $1500.00 i would run as fast as you can as he is playing you , unless there is some serious parts that are broken !
we tried a 134 conversion in a dadge van, was a total waste of time and they went back and put the r12 in it. I paid a couple of years back around $600 but it was a new comressor and the works. If you go the 134 route just have the total sytem done new evap, compressor etc as the 134 supposedly requires 2x the capacity as r12. That is why they said my dodge didnt work right and the cost to upgrade was to be out of sight.
we tried a 134 conversion in a dadge van, was a total waste of time and they went back and put the r12 in it. I paid a couple of years back around $600 but it was a new comressor and the works. If you go the 134 route just have the total sytem done new evap, compressor etc as the 134 supposedly requires 2x the capacity as r12. That is why they said my dodge didnt work right and the cost to upgrade was to be out of sight.
when you converted it what all did you do ? did you change the the accumulator , orifice tube , ? did you flush all the old oil out and clean the condenser out ?
The real limiting thing in most conversions is the condenser. If your system was marginal in condenser capacity when using R12, it will be a little more marginal using R134a.
If you looked at the conversion 'kits' that were sold by the OEMs back when, you'll see that they likely specified installing a parallel flow condenser in place of serpentine, or specified add on sealing/ducting to make sure there was more flow of air past the condenser.
In most cases you can get adequate performance from a converted system. Places that have a pretty good heat load were more problematic. Places such as the Pacific Northwest were handled pretty well. For the trucks, with a RWD setup, a fan clutch and duct were pretty much mandated. The edges around the radiator and condenser would be sealed to insure the air flowed through them, rather than around.
CJ06 hits most of the points for a changeover pretty well. Orifice tube changes were pretty model dependent, with some doing ok with the original, and others seeming to need a change to get adequate performance.
Do the accumulator- receiver/dryer change, flush the condenser and evaporator, and any hoses that do not have mufflers or cans of any kind, flush the compressor, evacuate, and then charge to 80-85% of the R12 specified with R134a. The amount of charge is critical, and care should be taken to watch temps as the last ~5% is added.
tom
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