OK....I got a new alternator for my 2005 Ford Excursion and have the old one off, but the serpentine belt is not cooperating. Where is the idler/spring pulley located to adjust and give a little more slack to install the new alternator?

 

Just did this on my '03. Hard to explain I'll do my best to get you a pic if you cant find it, but it's just directly to the right and below your alternator pulley...almost out of sight, there's also a pin that can hold the tension off while you replace your belt...man i'm sorry it's real hard to explain without pics...somebody might have some somewhere

 

Is it a gas or diesel? I think from your last thread you mentioned two batteries. If so, I assume you have a 6.0 diesel.

 

I see a 3/4 inch square hole where you described, but can't get anything in it to move the pulley up. What did you use, did you have to take the fan shroud off, and do you need to loosen any blots to raise the pully?

 

jh818...it is a diesel 6.0

 

It's best to use a half inch drive breaker bar and use it as a lever. It does not pivot at the pulley, but at the bracket the pulley is attached to. The pulley on the tensioner actually moves up and down to provide tension or release.

 

Is it necessary to remove the inner fan shroud? Does this bracket pivot clockwise/towards the driver side?

 

I can only tell you with confidence that on the V10, you turn clockwise.

Does your belt come over the top of the pulley? If so, then push down to loosen.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...placement.html

Try this link.

 

JUST REPLACED MINE ON A 2005 V-10 PUT A HALF INCH DRIVE BREAKER BAR AND ROTATE TOWARD THE DRIVERS SIDE RELEASE THE TENSION OF THE BELT MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEGITIVE BATTERY POST FIRST SIMPLE TO REPLACE DICCONNECT THE PLUGS ON TOP OF THE ALTERNATOR AND MAKE SURE TO PULL THE BOOT BACK ON THE POSITIVE WIRE ON THE ALTERNATOR BECAUSE IT IS HELD ON WITH A NUT WHEN YOU GO TO GET THE NEW ALTERNATOR TAKE THE OLD ONE WITH YOU TO MAKE SURE THE MOUNTING HOLES LINE UP IT WILL SAVE YOU A TRIP I WENT TO ORILLEYS AND THE ALTERNATOR THEY HAD TO FIT A 2005 DID NOT MATCH THE ONE I HAD WE FINALLY DISCOVERED THAT A 2001 ALTERNATOR IS THE ONE THAT WORKED I DONT KNOW YET IF IT WAS A MISTAKE IN THEIR COMPUTER OR WHAT I HAVE HAD MY EX SINCE 4,000 MILES I AM GOING TO HAVE FORD RUN A VIN CHECK TO SEE IF ANY PARTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED BEFORE I BOUGHT IT

 

Thanks for everyone's input. I completed the job this morning and all is well! The close proximity of the fan shroud really complicated things, but once I got the right combination of a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and 3/8" ratchet (along with an extension pipe for leverage) the belt tensioner moved down. WOW, what a pain in the @$$ to get a grasp on how to do it, but once the learning curve is over it's a pretty easy task! Thanks again for everyone's help!!!!

 

Here's a better one: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post5243390

Then scroll down to post #9 for the routing diagram for every engine type Ford put in the Ex, as well as where the tensioner is located in relation to everything else.

Stewart

 

I have a 2005 6.0 and have had to remove and reinstall the Alt. several times. The belt can be de-tensioned and locked that way with no tools.

Look below the tensioner pulley and you will see a little lever. Reach down over the intercooler pipe and get a finger under it with your right
hand. With your left hand grasp the belt below the Alternator and pull
toward yourself. This will move the tensioner pulley up and allow...pull hard... you to flip the lever up to lock it there with your right hand.

You now can slip the pulley off and remove the alternator.
It takes less than 10 minutes, taking your time, to remove or replace the Alt
on a 6.0.

Also for you...or anyone with recurring charging issues, especially a "flickering" Batt light on dash, replace the Alt connector. They fail in such a way that bumping or moving it can make and break it's connections, making it difficult to diagnose why you are not getting proper voltage.

Ford sells a much beefier, hi-temp pigtail that looks to me like the engineers there realized the stock one was borderline. When you install it make sure to cut back 2 or more inches of the old wire, it will be annealed
and discoloured (the strands themselves) and brittle from service.

Also anyone replacing the Alternator, there is a company making a brand-new one for us that has a larger case, MUCH better and failure-resistant internals, plus a lot more amps for just $50 more than a rebuilt one from the discount stores. Since it is completely new there is no core charge.

john roe
www.roenation.com

 

I just replaced my alternator on 2005 V10 but the first one I got from autozonce (DL3621-16-10) had different wire connections, just one plug and one battery lead. My truck has two, a small one wire plug and a larger three wire. Autozone said my alternator was a 2001 model, (DL3512-18-10) and that fit and worked. ???????
I bougth the truck with 20k from original owner and everything else has been fine and clean carfax?

 

I bought a 2001 model alternator for my 2005 lmtd Excursion because bolt patterns fit and 2005 did not.

My concern is that it is 130 Amp and book says that 2005 models take a 110Amp. I installed the 130Amp and it seems to be running fine. Is there any danger of running the 130Amp if it is supposed to be 110Amp?

Davis