Missing badly for 10 minutes?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Missing badly for 10 minutes?
My 2000 F250 misses badly when cold. The first start of the day, the 7.3l engine runs very rough. It last approximately 10 minutes, and suddenly it will just start running good. It will run good the rest of the day.
There are no codes set. I have no idea what to look for.
There are no codes set. I have no idea what to look for.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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I have been running diesel kleen. What I meant about being cold is the first start of the day. Even in the summer when the temps never fell below 90 degrees at night, it still ran very rough and lacked power. The last couple days when the temps fell to 50, it wouldn't even start until the temps warmed up.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 804
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From: Staten Island,hamilton ny
Pull the plugs on the valve cover gaskets,get an OHm meter and check the pins.There is great page for this and many other problems,google RHN mods and maintenance.I have used it for the same type of problem.Yours could be weak batteries,glow plug relay,loose under valve cover wiring harness.Start by checking your batteries.If you dont have a tester autozone or similar store can.If you want to try yourself without a tester take the pos cable off one side adn try to start,then do the other.This should give some idea of the state of the batteries then check evrything else.
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No SES light when running poorly. I have the valve covers off and looked at all the UVC wiring. All the wire plugs are tight and making contact. I checked resistance on the injectors, and they all are reading 2.9 ohms. I think some of the glow plugs are weak because they are testing close to 3 ohms. I'm going to change the glow plugs, but I still don't know what is causing it to run poorly after it starts for 10 minutes or so. The truck has a little over 100,000 miles, and the engine runs great after the immediate switch approx. 10 minutes after the first start of the day.
I read and learned from some other threads with similar issues, so I will start it and look at the oil flow from the injectors, and I'll try to do a buzz test to check out the injectors while I have the valve covers off.
I read and learned from some other threads with similar issues, so I will start it and look at the oil flow from the injectors, and I'll try to do a buzz test to check out the injectors while I have the valve covers off.
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Fleet Owner
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Heres an update: I did a buzz test. cylinders 1 to 6 all have a loud clanking sound, and a strong vibration when touching the injector. Cylinders 7,8 have a quieter sound and weak vibration. Still no codes even after the buzz test.
I ran engine and cylinders 7.8 have no oil discharging. So I know that 2 injectors are bad, but will that cause the 10 minute missing and run good afterwards? It is also strange that there are no trouble codes?
An additional problem I found is that the fuel filter o-rings are leaking.
In order to pinpoint the issue, I am tempted to fix the injectors first and see if the problem is gone before I fix the fuel, because maybe my problem is air in the fuel due to the leak?
I ran engine and cylinders 7.8 have no oil discharging. So I know that 2 injectors are bad, but will that cause the 10 minute missing and run good afterwards? It is also strange that there are no trouble codes?
An additional problem I found is that the fuel filter o-rings are leaking.
In order to pinpoint the issue, I am tempted to fix the injectors first and see if the problem is gone before I fix the fuel, because maybe my problem is air in the fuel due to the leak?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
I would swap solenoid 6 with 8 and see if the no oil discharge follows the solenoid. If it does then it's a bad solenoid, if not then there is a wiring problem to #8 solenoid or the #8 injector has a problem.
EDIT: What am I thinking. You can just run another Buzz test to check the solenoinds.
EDIT: What am I thinking. You can just run another Buzz test to check the solenoinds.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Heres an update: I did a buzz test. cylinders 1 to 6 all have a loud clanking sound, and a strong vibration when touching the injector. Cylinders 7,8 have a quieter sound and weak vibration. Still no codes even after the buzz test.
I ran engine and cylinders 7.8 have no oil discharging. So I know that 2 injectors are bad, but will that cause the 10 minute missing and run good afterwards? It is also strange that there are no trouble codes?
An additional problem I found is that the fuel filter o-rings are leaking.
In order to pinpoint the issue, I am tempted to fix the injectors first and see if the problem is gone before I fix the fuel, because maybe my problem is air in the fuel due to the leak?
I ran engine and cylinders 7.8 have no oil discharging. So I know that 2 injectors are bad, but will that cause the 10 minute missing and run good afterwards? It is also strange that there are no trouble codes?
An additional problem I found is that the fuel filter o-rings are leaking.
In order to pinpoint the issue, I am tempted to fix the injectors first and see if the problem is gone before I fix the fuel, because maybe my problem is air in the fuel due to the leak?
I'm guessing that the problem that you are having is just that and as the engine warms up, things expand just enough to allow the injectors to fire again.
If this were my job, I would be dropping in two rebuilt injectors.
There might be some air in the fuel, but not because of that leak.
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There are tolerances inside the injector that get worn out and then they won't fire.
I'm guessing that the problem that you are having is just that and as the engine warms up, things expand just enough to allow the injectors to fire again.
If this were my job, I would be dropping in two rebuilt injectors.
There might be some air in the fuel, but not because of that leak.
I'm guessing that the problem that you are having is just that and as the engine warms up, things expand just enough to allow the injectors to fire again.
If this were my job, I would be dropping in two rebuilt injectors.
There might be some air in the fuel, but not because of that leak.
That sounds logical. I already ordered 2 rebuilt injectors. After I get them installed, I'll update you with the results.
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I installed the 2 rebuilt injectors into 7 & 8. The truck starts easily now, and it appears to have fixed the 10 minute missing problem, but now I have different issues. The truck idles rough, and the engine has a combustion knock that wasn't there before. The knock and the roughness immediately goes away with increased rpm. Cylinder contribution test now shows #8 fault. There are no other codes, and the exhaust is free of smoke.
I have some ideas from reading other threads, but does anybody have any suggestions?
I have some ideas from reading other threads, but does anybody have any suggestions?
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Senior User
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Thank You for the info. I drove it over 50 miles today, and the symptoms are the same. Now, the cylinder contribution test shows both 7 & 8 faults (the 2 rebuilt injectors) and no other codes. I'll drive it more to see what happens.