Brake Booster
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
Brake Booster
Is therre a way to determine if your booster is working or not? I know that the pedal gets hard from what everyone has told me but the problem is I can't really tell. Before this truck (72 F250), I had a 65 F100 with a single master cylinder and no booster. Now those were some hard brakes but these also feel hard.
Can I just pull the vacuum line to determine this?
Can I just pull the vacuum line to determine this?
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Burbank, CA
Here's the easiest test: Start the engine, then press and release the brakes several times and see what that feels like. Then shut the engine off, and press and release the brakes several more times. The first stroke, you should still have power assist from the residual vacuum in the booster. By the second or third stroke, you will have run out of power assist and the pedal will feel a lot stiffer. If you can't feel any difference with the engine running or shut off, then the booster isn't working.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
Here's the easiest test: Start the engine, then press and release the brakes several times and see what that feels like. Then shut the engine off, and press and release the brakes several more times. The first stroke, you should still have power assist from the residual vacuum in the booster. By the second or third stroke, you will have run out of power assist and the pedal will feel a lot stiffer. If you can't feel any difference with the engine running or shut off, then the booster isn't working.
Thank you. I imagine these aren't something that can be repaired?
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
Well, my booster S#%T the BED. I'm pretty sure it was bad when I bought the truck. Either that or it's not getting vacuum. I haven't checked the vac hose yet because of the weather. I'm hoping it's just the vacuum but I have a sneaking suspicion it's probably the booster. Just checked on LMC and $130 for a new booster.
That's one part I figured would be relatively inexpensive. Not exactly a hi-tech item.
Oh well, nothing I wasn't prepared to deal with.
Thanks again xstrange for the tip.
That's one part I figured would be relatively inexpensive. Not exactly a hi-tech item.
Oh well, nothing I wasn't prepared to deal with.
Thanks again xstrange for the tip.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2010
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Of course when my booster went out it was because of a vacuum leak. Press the pedal, loud "shooshing" noise inside the cab and no brake assist. Of course with that massive of a vacuum leak the engine would almost quit.
Replaced the booster and the master cylinder while I was at it. Back in business!
RANGER -- try your local O'Reilly's or Advance Auto -- you can get a rebuilt Cardone booster for under $100. Hit their websites.
Replaced the booster and the master cylinder while I was at it. Back in business!
RANGER -- try your local O'Reilly's or Advance Auto -- you can get a rebuilt Cardone booster for under $100. Hit their websites.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Burbank, CA
Ranger;
There's no harm in testing the vacuum line and the little plastic check valve before ordering the new booster. There's a small chance that the check valve is clogged up and the booster is fine. But....the booster isn't much more than a steel can with a rubber diaphragm, and rubber parts only last so many years before they crack and fall apart. So, it wouldn't be any big surprise if the diaphragm is blown.
I doubt that it's practical to rebuild the booster yourself. It isn't anything high-tech, but the can is crimped together, and you probably can't buy the internal parts separately.
There's no harm in testing the vacuum line and the little plastic check valve before ordering the new booster. There's a small chance that the check valve is clogged up and the booster is fine. But....the booster isn't much more than a steel can with a rubber diaphragm, and rubber parts only last so many years before they crack and fall apart. So, it wouldn't be any big surprise if the diaphragm is blown.
I doubt that it's practical to rebuild the booster yourself. It isn't anything high-tech, but the can is crimped together, and you probably can't buy the internal parts separately.
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Senior User
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
Ranger;
There's no harm in testing the vacuum line and the little plastic check valve before ordering the new booster. There's a small chance that the check valve is clogged up and the booster is fine. But....the booster isn't much more than a steel can with a rubber diaphragm, and rubber parts only last so many years before they crack and fall apart. So, it wouldn't be any big surprise if the diaphragm is blown.
I doubt that it's practical to rebuild the booster yourself. It isn't anything high-tech, but the can is crimped together, and you probably can't buy the internal parts separately.
There's no harm in testing the vacuum line and the little plastic check valve before ordering the new booster. There's a small chance that the check valve is clogged up and the booster is fine. But....the booster isn't much more than a steel can with a rubber diaphragm, and rubber parts only last so many years before they crack and fall apart. So, it wouldn't be any big surprise if the diaphragm is blown.
I doubt that it's practical to rebuild the booster yourself. It isn't anything high-tech, but the can is crimped together, and you probably can't buy the internal parts separately.
Thanks xstrange.
I spoke with a mechanic yesterday and he told me not to bother as well. He also said that it can be potentially dangerous as the two halves are pressed together because of the spring in it.
I'll do all the variable elimination before I order the booster.
It's funny, I didn't think anything about the brakes when I bought it. I just expected the brakes to be hard because that was what I was familiar with when I had my 65. Then when I did the master cylinder, I thought to myself... should the brakes be this hard?
I hate working on my daily driver and I dread when something goes wrong but with BESS II I l love doing the work.
Thanks again for the advice. Later, Todd.
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