Good Body Lifts
Thanks, Robert
My body lift is Performance Accessories 3". It was very complete, I didn't use their bumper brackets though. For the fan shroud I just chopped the lower end of it a little. You can buy or make "gap guards" if you want too. I run 33's and 35's with this cheapo lift, but my front fenders are trimmed out alittle for 35 room, however there won't be any clearance issues with 33's on 10 inch rims.
There's pros and cons about everything, and everyone has there opinions on body lifts. Here's my personal pros-
It's easier to work on
It's easier to wash
Factory chassis geometry is maintained.
There's others, like price, but those are my favorite. Use the money you might have spent on suspension lifting for some kind of rear locker.
I know it will hook up but my best advice is to also extend the steering shaft around 3 inches. This can be done super inexpensively, or you can buy that Borgeson(something like that) shaft for around 200 bucks.
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I hate body lifts, worst thing I ever did to one of my trucks. I sold it soon afterwards, and bought my F-150 (so maybe it wasn't such a bad move after all.)
Why I don't like body lifts:
1. Shifter problems (not enough opening in the body for the increased travel, and when opened up, the gasket no longer fits.)
2. T-case shifter problems. (See above.)
3. Rougher ride (the body, being farther away from the frame, swings in a wider arc over a giver bump than a non-body lifted truck.)
4. Steering column pulled apart after I got the front end airborne. It gave no indication of any trouble before it left me in mid flight with no steering. Glad I was only going 5 mph.
5. Significantly more labor to install a body lift. I could install 3 suspension lifts in the time it takes to do a body lift.
6. The gap.
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my opinoin is dont run a bodylift on the 80-up trucks......everything is pushes to it's limit. for 79- back trucks its not all to complicated. Shifters are fine, you can jus tloosed steering column bolts and push foward to fiz steering, and front bumper brackets are easily made with longer lag bolts and 3 inche peices of pipe. i took mine off and cut the fenders xcuz i wanted a lower COG and i was tired of looking at that stupid gap between the body and frame. as for strength....mine survived a 35 mph roll
fixing the "problems" with a body lift:
1) buy a shifter extension ($49 from summit). After the extension, truck will shift/look stock.
2) weld on a 3" straight piece of steel rod to the end of the shaft. ($5 for steel). t-case will shift/look stock.
3) It is a truck, it is supposed to ride rough. If you want a soft ride buy a Lincoln. Or use the money that you saved on the body lift to buy new shocks.
4) The PA kit comes with a steering column extension, use locktite and it will not fall off.
5) If you can install a suspension lift in less time than a body lift, you have a great talent and should go into business installing suspension lifts.
6) To fix the gap, buy gap guards. They cost $62.
so total cost (including kit): less than $250. Try to find a suspension lift for that price. Use the money you saved to buy a really nice set of wheels and 33" tires or new shocks. With a suspension lift you get a great lift and then you have to buy new tires and wheels.
I will agree that is it a hassle fixing the bumpers. In the rear all that you have to do is drill a new hole in the brackets and rebolt it together. The front is a little more involved. You would need to fabricate a bracket to raise the bumper. The PA kit does come with brackets, but they suck.
If you do a lot of offroading, go with the suspension lift. It is far superior offroad. If you just want you truck to look and ride higher, save the money and go with the body lift.
This is just my $.02



is another good kit
