I parked my 96 bronco in the driveway yesterday when i got home from work. Went out this morning to go somewhere and the thing would not start. It turns over fine and fires every now and then so there is a spark. Is it bad gas or what is it. 5.0 xlt. I heard it could be a clogged injector in the open position and flooding it. Could this be it?

 

Do you hear a clicking when you turn the key......could be your starter solenoid.

Tim

 

could it be the timing chain ? i had a 302 mustang that i parked one night ,it was running fine and when i tried to start it the next morning it would not start. the timing chain broke and it did the same thing yours did. itcranked fine and sputter once in a while. it could very well be something more simple but that is what happened to me.

 

If the exhaust smells like a LOT of gasoline (after cranking), hold the gas pedal to the floor while you're cranking - this shuts the injectors off, to clear a flood condition. If it starts (even if it dies when you let off the gas pedal), then you definitely have a flood, possibly from a leaking injector; possibly from a leaking fuel pressure regualtor...

 

I drove my truck home one night & parked it (ran fine). The next day it wouldn't start. Turned out to be the coil. Remove the coil wire from the distributor & insert a spark plug into the terminal on the wire. Spin the engine & see what color spark you get. Blue is good, orange is bad. Mine was orange. A weak spark could explain why it tries to start. It may be worth a shot. Good luck!

 

It could be the ignition module on the distributer.
I Just had similer problem last week. But I was driving on the freeway when the engine just cut out and died. After scratching my head for about 5 minutes trying to figure out why, I was able to start it up again. Well a half an hour later, and about 50 miles, it did it again, but wouldn't run the second time. cranked over but wouln't start.

I thought it might have had a bad fuel pump so I replaced it. Pain in the A@#$. After replacing the fuel pump I still had the same problem.

It turned out to be the ignition module on the side of the distributer. So I replaced that too. Then went for a test drive and I couldn't get it above 2,500 RPMs. It just sputtered like it was missing or not firing on all 8 cylinders at high speeds. Idle just fine though. So I hooked up a code reader and the first code that came up was the MAP sensor and the second code was the PIP sensor. Last night I had replaced the MAP sensor and then went for a test drive. Made a world of difference. I was able to get up to about 4000 rpms to get up to highway speeds, without a problem.

I will have to hook up the code reader again today to see if I'm getting the PIP sensor error still. If it comes up again I will end up replacing the distributer. That PIP sensor is mounted inside the distributer, and it's time consuming and a pain to replace. May be I will rebuild it at a later date when I have time, to have a spare just in case if this comes up again especcially when off-road in the middle of nowhere and cell phones don't work.

Get your self a code reader. I only paid about $25 for mine. I probably would not have had to replace the fuel pump if I had the code reader before hand. But now I don't have to worry about the pump for the next hundred or two thousand miles, I hope.

 

You don't need a scantool for '84-95 NON-MAF EFI - all you need is a paperclip to pull the codes.