the DT 360 is about the same weight as a 7.3.
they make decent HP, but their strength is the high torque numbers they produce.
there some people doing the DT-366-DT-466 swap, but they are much larger, and weigh close to 1500 lbs.

 

Having put a 5.9 into a 92 that had 4.10 gears, the only way we could make that thing happy was to run double overdrive. We had a gear vendors that came with the donor truck in and engaged both overdrives. Had a driveline failure involving the GV unit, so it is out, the rear diff took a dump, so it got swapped to 3.54, which was what the donor truck had run if I recall. It is much happier running now, getting up towards the 20 mpg mark and still pulling the 5 horse trailer and 6-2000# hay bales on a pull behind trailer without stressing at all. I will say doing the conversion on a 2wd is much easier than 4x4 as you can set it wherever you want and only one driveshaft has to be messed with. The Cummins is longer, so you have to figure out how to get the clearance to the radiator, which comes from running without a belt driven fan or moving the trans back, which means lengthening the front driveshaft and shortening the rear. The other issues are the radiator itself, as in the Ford rads have the hose arrangements all wrong for the Cummins. The factory setup on the turbo arrangement will hit the air box for the heater/a/c iif you don't rework things a bit. I tilted the motor about 3 degrees to clear the air box. I modeled my motor mounts off the Ford/cummins setup, never again. I like the newer style eye bushings better, or make the mounts totally horizontal so they can't sink. I tried to keep things as stock as I could so it wasn't hard to get the replacement parts as needed.

 

One more bit of info. The 5.9 that Dodge uses is a bit different externally than the commercial 5.9 direct from cummins. Also small differences depending on the year.

Mine is a 93' Cummins Recon, direct from Cummins. Exhaust is setup with the turbo on top and more to the rear. Dipstick is pulled from the top, front of the engine from a long tube that ends toward the rear of the oil pan. 3 separate rocker covers. There is no type of cold start help like the heated intake grid in the Dodge (I've never needed anything to aid starting even with temps to minus 10)

Always used only 1 battery, currently an Optima yellow top. I get 15.7 mpg on the freeway, in over drive and running almost against the governor, hate doing that. Towing 5th wheel in a head wind drops to 9.5 mpg, exactly what I got with dads truck a few weeks ago towing 5th wheel in a head wind.

 

Now the DT360 sounds interesting. You can get an in-frame rebuild kit for that motor (sleeves, cylinders & all) for ~$1k and pick up a DT360 for around $1500. So for around $2500 you've got a medium duty motor with a rebuild kit.

Is that motor an even tighter fit than the 5.9L Cummins or around the same? Will our trans bolt up to the DT360?

 

If my understanding is correct, the DT360 is about the same dimension as the 6BT. I would love to have wet sleeves, rebuilds are a snap. Bolt up would be more the issue, as I doubt they have any standard bell pattern, more likely an SAE bell.

 

I thought that was the issue with so few tranny options w/ these IDI's. The IDI has the SAE bell bolt pattern?

 

yup, the navastar engines have the SAE trans bolt pattern, and use an adapter plate to run the ford trans. so to use a DT360, you bolt the ford adapter plate to the block, or use a commercial truck trans. this gives you multiple options for a manual trans, or you can use an allison automatic

 

The IDI motors have the capability to run both SAE and Ford bells due to the adapter that IH-Navistar made to connect the motor to a trans. I don't personally know if the same adapter works on the 360 motors.

 

No, The IDI does not have an SAE bell housing bolt pattern. It has an adapter plate that is International(or whatever it is) to Ford ...

However, I have to believe there is an adapter out there for International(or whatever it is) to SAE because the International version is used in other things.

The DT line uses a SAE 2 bell housing pattern I believe.

The DT360 is a little heavier then the Cummins, Not much available for performance parts, pretty much everything has to be done custom, they can produce some pretty serious HP with bux, wet liners are a plus for performance.

However, one would be better off with the Cummins, it's a little smaller is size, mucho after market support equals low cost HP with a wide variety of options.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

In case anyones interested ...

SAE Bell housing dimensions in Inches.
<table><tr><th<b>Acronym</b></th><th></th><th align="left"><b>Description</b></th></tr><tr><td>ID</td><td> = </td><td>Inside Dimension.</td></tr><tr><td>OC</td><td> = </td><td>Bolt center to Bolt center Diameter across center.</td></tr><tr><td>OD</td><td> = </td><td>Outside Diameter.</td></tr><tr><td>HC</td><td> = </td><td>Bolt Hole Count.</td></tr><tr><td>Dia.</td><td> = </td><td>Bolt Hole Diameter.</td></tr></table>
<table><tr><thalign="right"><b>SAE#</b></th><th></th><th><b>ID</b></th><th></th><th><b>OC</b></th><th></th><th><b>OD</b></th><th></th><th><b>HC</b></th><th></th><th><b>Dia.</b></th></tr><tr><td align="right">00</td><td> - </td><td>31</td><td> - </td><td>33.5</td><td> - </td><td>34.75</td><td> - </td><td>16</td><td> - </td><td>17/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">0</td><td> - </td><td>25.5</td><td> - </td><td>26.75</td><td> - </td><td>28</td><td> - </td><td>16</td><td> - </td><td>17/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">1/2</td><td> - </td><td>23</td><td> - </td><td>24.375</td><td> - </td><td>25.5</td><td> - </td><td>12</td><td> - </td><td>17/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">1</td><td> - </td><td>20.125</td><td> - </td><td>20.875</td><td> - </td><td>21.75</td><td> - </td><td>12</td><td> - </td><td>15/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">2</td><td> - </td><td>17.625</td><td> - </td><td>18.375</td><td> - </td><td>19.25</td><td> - </td><td>12</td><td> - </td><td>13/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">3</td><td> - </td><td>16.125</td><td> - </td><td>16.875</td><td> - </td><td>17.75</td><td> - </td><td>12</td><td> - </td><td>13/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">4</td><td> - </td><td>14.25</td><td> - </td><td>15</td><td> - </td><td>15.875</td><td> - </td><td>12</td><td> - </td><td>13/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">5</td><td> - </td><td>12.375</td><td> - </td><td>13.125</td><td> - </td><td>14</td><td> - </td><td>8</td><td> - </td><td>13/32</td></tr><tr><td align="right">6</td><td> - </td><td>10.5</td><td> - </td><td>11.25</td><td> - </td><td>12.125</td><td> - </td><td>8</td><td> - </td><td>13/32</td></tr></table>

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I know Cummins engines are a great power house, but I'm getting tired of seeing Cummins swapped Fords!

Just one time I'd love to see a CAT diesel in a Ford.

 

As someone who has swapped a '94 model 12V/NV4500 into a 93 F250, I'd tell you do it and never look back


High points:
Move the engine as far back as you can without notching the frame & run an electric fan

Flip the dodge exhaust manifold over, clock the turbo and you've got plenty of clearance on the AC box. The turbo down pipe of a '89-93 12V can be extended 4-5", and clears everything quite well.

Keep the dodge AC compressor & alternator on the dodge mounts so you can keep the factory belt & routing. No fighting with trying to figure out which size belt you need now

Take the dodge alternator to your local alternator shop and have the internal regulator changed to a stand alone system. They most likely do it all the time, as the dodge voltage regulator is integral in the computer, and is notorious for frying. When you wire up your "hot" wire, (the green w/ red tracer), install an inline relay, as the Ford circuit isn't "hot" enough to energize the Dodge regulator

Use the dodge AC compressor, have custom lines made, and a purple dodge orfice tube (my AC blows at 38-44* on hot days)

Since you moved your motor back, the transmission will be further back. Shorten the Ford's front driveshaft to fit. Cut the front yoke out of the Dodge driveshaft, and use it with your shortened ford driveshaft. The tubes are the same size and the Dodge yoke will slip fit in, and let you use the Dodge slip with your Ford driveshaft. No custom sized u-joints this way

The dodge clutch slave cylinder will work with the ford master. You just have to drill your dodge slave .100" to accept the Ford nipple (or shorten the nipple on the ford line .100" to make it slip into the dodge slave, if its possible, I don't recall which I did, but I think it was drilling the slave)

Find a 3.55 rear axle. The 4.10 rear end is too tall, unless you're pulling backhoes regularly

Keep your ford oil pressure/water temp sending units and your factory gauges will work flawlessly

Plumb the 12V's vacuum pump into your Ford vacuum log (mounted on the drivers wheel well) and your AC controls, power brakes & cruise control will work like factory. Only complaint that I have is the Ford cruise control isn't sensitive enough, and you have to pedal up on hills

Change the hose fitting out on the 12V's power steering pump for the fitting from an old style Saginaw pump (early 80's Chevy's & jeeps), and you've got a standard flare fitting on both your power steering pump and your steering box. No O-ring fittings on your power steering pressure line

If I think of anything else, I'll add it to the list

 

i call dibs on his turbo 7.3

 

Which CAT do you suggest someone swap in that has the same hp/size ratio of a 6BT? More importantly, where do you suggest that folks source a good, mechanical injected CAT that will fit in our Ford's without frame extensions, custom body work & a big truck transmission?

 

Cat Products: Applications>On-Highway Transportation>Support>Engines

I'm not saying it would be easy, and it's not like I have this already planed out in my head as to what trans to use and what engine would be best, and as for if it would fit, if I was going to do this build for real I'd get an f350 crew cab and put an f650 front on it, that would give you all the room you need.