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So I have an 89 3.0 manual shorty. Recently I've been having some weird issues. immediately after starting it up there will be a rattling kinda sound in sync with the engine for a second or two. After that it goes away. Also when I am going slowly in first/second/third and am not giving it much throttle it feels like it is going to die. The red engine light also comes on, but not the check engine light.
I just pulled codes using the sticky...
Engine Off
96 - ???
63 - TP circuit below minimum voltage
Engine Running
41 - no HO2S switch detected / HO2S circuit indicates system lean
while you have that area opened up also remove and clean the throat of the throttle body and plate with carb cleaner and a rag especially the area between the throat and plate closure. affects idle air flow.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39
also clean or replace the IAC mounted at the rear of the throttle body. supplies idle air flow. they plug up and become sticky from carbon and dirt. cleaning with carb cleaner works sometimes but the shaft/seal wears out over time.
96 is voltage test to fuel pump. won't worry about it unless the engine is dying due to lack of fuel at rail..
disconnecting the batt cables to safely replace the TPS and O2 sensors will clear the codes.
drive for 20 miles and recheck codes. 96 should not return.
Originally Posted by mmxchamp
So I have an 89 3.0 manual shorty. Recently I've been having some weird issues. immediately after starting it up there will be a rattling kinda sound in sync with the engine for a second or two. After that it goes away. Also when I am going slowly in first/second/third and am not giving it much throttle it feels like it is going to die. The red engine light also comes on, but not the check engine light.
I just pulled codes using the sticky...
Engine Off
96 - ???
63 - TP circuit below minimum voltage
Engine Running
41 - no HO2S switch detected / HO2S circuit indicates system lean
I've been busy with school and didn't get a chance to work on this until this past weekend. I cleaned the IAC and replaced the TPS. I then disconnected the battery cables to clear codes and drove for a bit. I pulled codes again and still got the 41. I replaced the O2 sensor less than 10K ago. maybe i have an exhaust leak? The engine also still clicks/rattles/makes noises when i first start up and its somewhat cold. is this just age and too thick of oil?
OK i'll look into vacuum leaks and O2 connections. it drove pretty good today, but the red "engine" light still comes on when i was in first or second gear and going maybe 15-25 mph. weird.
ok so i figured out what i think is causing the red "engine" light to come on: the oil pressure gauge drops from "O" to below the red bar. slightly troubling. it is usually when i first accelerate from a stop and when i first shift. it doesnt change when i'm idling at a light and give it gas. so either electrical or not enough power to the oil pump?
Your symptoms sound like low oil level, so when you accelerate, oil moves away from the pickup tube.
The oil pump is driven by the engine through a gear on the cam shaft, so it's either working working or not at all. If the parts clearances have been increased due to wear and tear, you would see low pressure when the engine is at low rpms, like at idle, not when you speed up.
wow. i feel stupid. i'm gonna go ahead and blame it on midterms, but who knows.
I can't remember exactly how long its been since i last checked the oil level or topped off, but it was low by more than a quart. its not shooting smoke out the exhaust, so is this just 206K miles of wear on the engine? i'll measure how much its actually using next time i go on a trip.
at 200k + miles, a qt every 500 miles is within the expected wear normal range.
1500 miles and the crankcase is 3 qts low. would cause your light and pressure problems.
i'd put a label on the dask
Check oil weekly.
had to put one on the dash of my Dodge PU when hauling the camper.
Camper
11FT clearance
won't describe the incident that I did that led to the dash sign. not good.