White Smoke? Again?
I can't thank you enough for your help. I will update later with a post on smoking conditions!
I don't think I have spent that much on my truck in 1 year of operation beginning with the total acquisition cost (purchase price, NOT amortized), all the way to every single repair bill including tires, brakes, and stockpiled parts that I haven't got around to doing something with.
Maybe if I added insurance, plates and fuel...
If it isn't somking and the engine coolant is at an acceptable level....I'm gonna run it like a scalded dog on the way home.
On a side note, I have the oil changed every 3,000 miles and my husband insists that I don't have to have it done that often. (It's 150 miles over its 3000 change due) I'm not hurting anything changing it every 3000 am I?
By your note --- I would say 5,000 miles is enough.
Rather than change so frequently, I would change with synthetic 5w-40.
You must INSIST on,
a) Bona fide Motorcraft filters (should be at the dealer)
b) whatever oil you get, it MUST be Diesel CJ-4 or better rated.
Not car oil.
Do not go to "joes oil change".
If you do it at dealer (or any place) WATCH them to make sure they are not switching out a cheaper oil.
THe stuff is $20 a gallon for good synthetic.
Tons of incentive to scam while you are not looking.
If you go dino oil, Rotella Shell is the one to get.
Trust no one on this.
Watch them.
When I first got the thing, my 6.0 coded like a christmas tree, and had I believed some of the things said on here, I would have gotten in for a new turbo, Egr delete, ARP studs, etc etc etc.
Guess what?
None of that was necessary.
I did fewer than $2k in repairs to get it up to snuff, not counting tires, brakes, alternator or things not directly related to the 6.0.
FYI, I have the receipts and service records at a reputable Ford dealer to prove this.
Oh... I think it is time you find a REAL diesel technician at a Ford dealer.
Being a dealer mean they have access to the Ford diagnostics tools.. which in highly competent hands, is a great thing.
In the hands of a high school dropout that probably is high on the job... not much impact.
Thanks for all your help...I was without internet most of the weekend so I couldn't post an update....I drove it home HARD Friday night and haven't had any trouble at all. Saturday I checked my coolant level and it was at the minimum line on cold fill and my oil looked good...clean.
So far so good......Thanks again. My husband jokes that I'm becoming a diesel mechanic myself....now when I go in to have it checked out I usually let them know what tests i want done because I get so much good info on this forum!
Thanks a million.....
I'm afraid I may be selling it though, Mine is an awesome King Ranch edition...leather seats, just beautiful and my husband has a stroke everytime he sees me jumping in with horse crap on my boots and a load of hay on the back. He wants me to get a work truck and something else to drive back and forth to town.....sigh.....
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Fill it exactly to the line cold.
Put a bit of color tape there to MARK the fill.
Watch the line COLD over the next month twice a week.
If it doesn't go down or up much (a bit down is normal because of winter), you are good.
If it goes UP or Down a lot cold --- you got trouble.
If the bottle "empties again", fill it up, restart the procedure.
If you have to do that more than 3 times, trouble.
But until the facts are in, do not get people to goad you into thinking that you got a coolant leak and need another $5,000 in repairs!
BTW, I am here finishing up a few posts "loose ends" like yours, but in general, I will no longer be participating in this forum.
A few people have my email -- and I am happy to trade notes with a few. You can contact them to forward your email as you have no private message on.
Good luck.
Per Technical Service Bulletin 06-21-2:
"Prior to making any repairs verify the coolant level is not overfull. The level should be at the "MIN" line in the degas bottle at operating temperature. Overfilled coolant levels will cause coolant to vent from the degas bottle cap".
https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...hp?tsb=06-21-2
Last edited by SteveBricks; Oct 4, 2010 at 01:20 PM.
Spoke too soon. All is NOT well. I was driving over lunch today and started loosing power and stuttering (never completely stalled out). So I drove straight to the Ford dealership and they said they couldn't get me in until tomorrow.
The service guy told me to put cetane booster in and that I should be doing it at all of my fill ups, to drive it hard and see what happened. I did and it continued to stutter and started rolling black smoke.
I have had these symptoms before and it turned out the ebp tube was clogged. Called the service guy back to tell him the cetane booster didn't help and he told me to bring it in....
So here is my new question:
1. Could the EBP be clogged up again because of the way I drive...I drive this thing like a mini-van (my husband's words not mine), I haven't been using cetane booster, and I let it idle for long periods of time (I just found out this is bad)?
I have (since April 2010) replaced the FICM, the Turbo, the EGR valve, and the EBP tube, oh and a MAP sensor, and the #2 fuel injector.
I'm hoping for a clogged EBP tube.....
So here is my new question:
1. Could the EBP be clogged up again because of the way I drive...I drive this thing like a mini-van (my husband's words not mine), I haven't been using cetane booster, and I let it idle for long periods of time (I just found out this is bad)?....
It is VERY adviseable (IMO anyway) to invest in a code reader and/or an electronic gauge system. The Edge Insight (I have a DashDAQ) is a good choice. With this, these forums can usually step you through a very good troubleshooting process.
I know it is more money, but it is money well spent. Regardless, the codes may be the key. As Tim stated above, it could be the long idles (soot) and nothing more serious - hope so anyway.









