i have a 2004 f150 Heritage. it has 11,000 Miles on it, i live in michigan....salt is a big problem

i have read the threads pertaining to the rear diff but i have a special issue, its a 7 year old truck with only 11,000 miles(bought it in Feb 2010 with 8,000 miles)

i really need some help. the rear diff cover is very wet. not dripping on the ground but im very weary. i think i can replace the gasket and refill the fluid myself. i don't know if i should get a new cover as michigan has rusted the metal on the truck or just use a wire brush and get the rust off and leave it.

my next issue is should i get the other seals replaced? this is my first vehicle. i love to tinker and am a fast learner but the idea of removing my axle is scary. if i Should have it done should i take it in or attempt it myself?

my last issue is the overall health of my truck. do i need things replace or resealed? ex. ball joints/brakes/struts/seals/ anything other than my my problem?

if i am lucky enough for someone to read all of this i am very grateful.

Truck Specs:
4.2l V6
3.55 LS Axle
Heritage Model(prior-2003)
No Torsion Bar
Regular Cab 8ft Bed.
Michigan Weather

Please Help me
thanks to anyone who can help me on this..

 

The rear diff cover probably doesn't have a gasket but uses RTV sealant only to seal. If you've tried tightening the bolts first to no success you can remove the cover clean both sealant surfaces and reapply new sealant. If your not sure if the cover is porous clean and dry it. Then put something like solvent, brake clean, gas (be careful) into the bowl area of the cover. Swirl it around a bit then look to see if it leeches through to the rusted side. If so I think you need a new cover. Would be wise to make sure a cover is available if needed before starting the job.

As for miles, years and seals, if it isn't leaking don't create problem by changing things for no reason.

It would probably be a good idea to have the vehicle safety checked at a trusted garage. They'll tell you if ball joints, brakes, suspension, etc are worn. You can fix any problems you feel comfortable with and leave the rest for them.

 

with 11k miles you should not have any problems. Look at the rear cover. Is the "wet" coming from the gasket area or the center of he pan. My pan was heavily rusted at 100K miles. I wire brushed it and painted with red primer rustoleum, then a coat of black paint. Clean the pan, clean the faces that seal, put RTV thin layer on each (i prefer the orange used for sensors). Bolt the cover on and evenly tighen the bolts. RTV should just squeeze out a small amount. Add about 2 quarts of 75 w 140 full synthetic gear lube and a 7 oz bottle of friction modifier you get at Auto Zone. --- Then paint the primer , let it dry, then the black paint..

 

thanks for the replies.

(Steve(ill))
the "wet" seems to only be on the lower half of the cover, but only around the seal, not on the outer bowl.

i will prime and paint as suggested. but i was going to to do it before i bolt it back on.

rtv sealant "is" supposed to be the entire gasket? i was trying to find a replacement gasket but little luck. should i use RTV Blue? or Different?

also what is the size and length of the 10 bolts that hold them on? i was going to get Stainless or Grade 8 Replacements for the rusted ones

(lime1GT)
don't fix what isnt broken....never really of that. i've been worried sick something is going to break but i guess i'll have it checked and let it be.

the cover is thick. there is no chips or layers missing, just very bad surface rust. why don't they have gaskets? i guess it makes it easier to make your own.

Thanks for all the help guys,
Dan

 

I wouldn't be too worried. These trucks are built pretty well. There are 1000's of trucks out there performing with few problems. Of coarse normal wear and tear applies so it's important to have the vehicle checked over and serviced periodically. Reading all the problems on 'forums' are unnerving but that's why people are here, to find answers to a problem they have. That doesn't mean it applies to every vehicle. If you read the TSB's it states not every problem affects every vehicle. Perform your maintenance by mileage or time, whichever comes first according to your owners manual and you should be ok.

They probably don't use gaskets as it's one extra part expense, and they tend to leak with age. Sealant can be applied by a machine at the factory as well. I myself prefer sealants.

hope this helps.

 

i will use the blue RTV sealant then. i just thought that gaskets were used and RTV was used on both sides of the gaskets.

thanks for the help Lime1GT


just waiting for a follow up on Steve's message.

(Steve(ill))
the "wet" seems to only be on the lower half of the cover, but only around the seal, not on the outer bowl.

i will prime and paint as suggested. but i was going to to do it before i bolt it back on.

rtv sealant "is" supposed to be the entire gasket? i was trying to find a replacement gasket but little luck. should i use RTV Blue? or Different?

also what is the size and length of the 10 bolts that hold them on? i was going to get Stainless or Grade 8 Replacements for the rusted ones

 

You might be better off with a sealant such as I found on this web site;
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...tv_sealant.htm


When I had my Dodge Dakota I used a special Mopar diff rtv sealant I had found reading a TSB. I also used it on my Mustang when I changed gears out twice. Never had a leak on either vehicles. I guess this Permatex sealant is similar. Good Luck.