subscribed, going to be a very similiar thread about my 97 F-250 in the not so distant future

 

Wish i Knew thay 6 years ago when i did mine. Mine leaked from then till about a month ago when i did it again

 

OK so Today I installed my New Moly Rings, Oil control rings etc, there .40 Over pistons, and rods .
We just Put one piston in today After checking Clearances with Feeler gauges and Pasta-gauge .0015 Clearance Nice Fit,
Now you only need to Check One Rod with the .20 bearings in, Because usually the machine , is automatic and Preset when grinding the crank, If one rod clears they will always clear 99.9 % of the time. Once the piston was in and Torque to 61 Nm . we Spun the Crank to check tightness and if everything can still turn with a finger ! and it passed, tomorrow i will have more pics !

TIP FOR YOU ALL ... coffer filters are you friend! Lint free, and cheap, and when you clean u can get a new one every time!.No need to wash.





More tomorrow. ttul

 

Not to be a pain. But you should always plasti gauge every rod and main. The journals may be identical but the bearing thicknesses can vary. As long as you spin the crank evey time you install a rod and piston assembly and it turns easy you should be fine. You can't always give the bearing company's quality control the benefit of the doubt

 

I agree with mudsport, I used to work for an engine builder when I lived in Ohio, bearings do vary in thickness. I can remember an engine that I didn't build but when we tried to start it for the first time we ended up having to hook it to a tractor and pull start it because everything was so tight. We discovered about 4 months later after a catastrophic bearing failure that the cause of our problems where the bearings that had come in the crank kit, the one we checked was fine, all the others where too tight.

 

Rods with a different stroke??

And as the two above mentioned, plastigage is cheap.... always a good idea to check all the bearings to be safe.

 

ya good idea i will check a few more tomorrow, But again there clevite 77 bearings I should be safe ! lol
Ward that was a typo its a stroker kit i bought , and i typod that wrong my bad.

 

There is no way I would assemble a motor without checking everything twice!

Even Clevite bearings have been known to have (rare) issues with manufacturing tolerances. Don't take chances with your hard-earned money.

Just my 0.02 USD worth. YMMV.

Ray

 

I would check them all. Use plenty of assembly lube.. I use lubriplate. Coat the journals and bearing face thick. And everytime u torque a cap rotate the crank that way if it binds you know it was the last thing you tightened that caused the bind so you don't have to recheck it all. When totally together it should take less that 20 ft lbs to rotate the assembly because of ring drag mostly not trying to be an *** just tryin to save you a buck on having to do it twice cuz believe me the first engine I did didn't go as planned lol

 

I am sorry but your teachers are idiots. They should be teaching you things, not have is correct their screw ups

 

Stroker Kit? Which kit/manufacturer? With a stroker, checking clearances is an absolute MUST! Not just rods/mains, but PTV, Counterweights, Rod to block, etc.

Also, with a stroker, its always a good idea to have the balance checked. Balance is critical on a stroker, as the excess rotating mass and longer throw on the crank will have a definite effect on the rpm's the motor is capable of handling. Once you break out of the mild stock range on a motor, time spent checking is never wasted time!! The junkyards are full of motors that were built that shoulda been safe.

 

Gotta say I am leaning towards agreeing with you there Brad!!

 

Another thought, since you haven't mentioned it, and the "teachers" there seem to be a bit questionable... did you check the end gap on the rings?

 

again, as Wrad said, clearances are everything with a stroker, and balancing is key, have seen 383 Chevy motors shake themselves to pieces in a summer at the cruise ins in street rods that I know weren't raced because they weren't balanced right, defintely have that one internally balanced if it was me. btw, Speedway Motors sells a 552 kit for the 460

 

Ok Heres the Run down for today ! I have already had the Pistons , Rods, Crank WT , and flex plate etc , balanced , SO we are good . Just doing the Assembly today .

My ring gap should be between .10 -.20 its .10 so its nice and Tight,

During my assembley I broke an oil control ring GRR accidents happen , I will be replacing that Monday,

So far everything has Been covered in Lube, In fact I am a bit OCD bout things like this , So right before a part gos on it gets Brake cleaned, Air pressured dry then Lubed, then assembled ,
Thxs for all your Info and support. Short block is almost Done.

MudSport * I have been doing just that mate, One Piston at a time, then take a Socket to the End Nut, and turn with one hand, everything has been moving nicely with out and Bind At the moment ,
I will be Flushing the engine once , Before it gos in to the truck, So trying to keep everything as clean as possible .

I do have a Question :
My teacher wants me to Put on a Oil Sling, ?!! After i installed my Double roller chain, Problem is these engines don't come with one, as least mine didn't have 1, Any suggestions on this ? should i bother ? is it needed thxs

More pics tomorrow thxs
jayson