I'm sorry but if I wanted my numbers I posted critiqued, or where I live determined whether it is mild or not, I would have posted them asking.
I posted my numbers for the OP to compare his/her numbers with.
Have a great day

 

Casey, the last time I checked, my readings were about the same as yours.

I will check them again tonight and see for sure.

 

Hey --- there was no intent (and I hope no actual) offense or critique!

Thanks for posting your numbers to compare!

Please enjoy yourself on this forum!

 

Hey George, how is everything going in Delaware, hope good fall is here, well not here yet anyway.
Take care!!!

 

OK. So I had the batteries swapped out today, but I still have low voltage. Was about 13 - 13.5 still after running for a bit. Looking into getting a replacement alternator and am a little confused.

DB Electrical - NEW Ford F Series Pickup 6.0L Diesel Alternator 03 04 05 AFD0106
Indicates 2 options for 03, 04, and 05 F350s, however none indicate the parts replace the specific model I have. Also all indications say the units are for a dual alternator setup. Does the F350 have dual alternators? And if so, where is the second unit??

Dnlauto,Miami,Alternators,Starters : 8476 REPLACEMENT FORD ALTERNATOR , 5C3T-10300-DA, ALTERNATOR AUTOMOTIVE
Indicates this model is for a single Alternator setup and appears to list the model in my truck as a replacement unit. However, it also indicates this is for F450 and F550 models?? Here us a link for it at db-starter. http://www.db-starter-alternator.com...0162-8476.aspx

Here is a picture of the back of my current unit:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

If anyone knows anything or has some suggestions to point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. I know Checker Auto said they could order for me. They indicated the part was dependent on model year build date. Mine happens to be 10/04.

Thanks

 

You are wasting your money. 13.5 v is on spec.

Unless you want a bright, shiny alternator just for the fun of it...

Then you are into a different game.

If you want that game... get a Mitsubishi Ambulance alternator.

It is the gold standard for bragging rights.

 

I guess my concern is it's very close to be more 13.0 and sometimes 12.5 - 13. Given that the on spec is a range from 13 - 15, it would seem mine is still under performing as I have never in 2 years seen higher than 13.7 and that is running it on the freeway(and also not seen this anytime recently). Currently its borderline low 13s at idle(new batteries) and maybe 13.5 when on the throttle. Also, I am a bit concerned now as it would appear the unit in my truck isn't even correct for its model. If that is the case I would actually prefer to swap it out to help ensure downward failures. I have already replaced a fried FICM(last year) and would really like to prevent that from ever happening again.

 

So, I did a little more research and am thinking this is actually the correct model for my truck.
DB Electrical - New Ford F-Series 6.0L Diesel Pickup Alternator 03 04 05 8306

Anyone with a stock 2005 F350 that can confirm what model # they have in their truck?

 

You want a $100 alternator for your truck???

Mattel and Fisher Price have good alternators at that price point.

It cost me around that much to buy a DC motor for my RC planes.

Talk to bismic and others to see what they use --- comparable to your needs.

For a serious alternator that is going to be better than what you have, start looking at serious 150amp or more at 80 to 100% duty cycle alternators

You are looking at real money.

If you have serious electrical loads, try $400 to $500 for a 200amp alternator.

 

OK Sarcasm aside, I never said I was buying that model. I simply said it appeared to be the correct unit for my vehicle based on the information I had available at the time. The local Checker sells a replacement unit for about $220. Is that more in-line with what you feel should be spent for repairs?? The supplier listed also is a whole-seller, so it is possible their prices are lower than the local parts store or the dealer.

As for my needs, no, I have a stock truck with a Satellite Radio installed. No aftermarket light, winch or any other crap that should need power.

If you have useful information(such as a reputable online seller) that you think would be helpful, then by all means and tell me. That is after all why I asked. But, being an *** in your response honestly makes me less likely to even bother listening(or reading) your posts in the future.

I now hope for input from other diesel experts(such as bismic or cheezit).


BTW, You may want to look around fro your RC Plane parts. You might find what you need for a bit cheeper. It's your choice of course though.

 

According to my service manual, the part number for a 2004 is 4C3Z10346AA. Now, Ford seems to like to change part numbers a lot. I can't swear to it, but I think any of the single alternator listings you posted will work on your truck. I think even the upper alternator listings would probably work. (Ford offered dual alternators as an option. The upper alternator was basically the same, just a little higher amp rating. As long as the bolt pattern is right, the pulley is right and the wiring plug is right.

If you want the Ford OEM alternator, check out www.partsguyed.com. He has the part number I listed at $172.51.

The stock alternator is 110 amp. The one listed says in the description as 120 amp. That is ample for a mostly stock truck.

 

Go back somewhere over the past year, there were a stack of threads (mainly with bismic / mark) discussing the relative merits (or lack thereof) of alternators.

Specifically ---- there is a HUGE issue with alternators that are claimed to be "A", and sure, it can do that for 5% duty cycle.

A diesel / commercial grade alternator tend to deliver the rated power for considerably longer --- say duty cycle of 40% at a bare minimum, and most often, closer to 80% or higher.

If you have the OEM Ford alternator on it right now, the best thing you can do is to do nothing,

I went through several replacements (as have many people on here) that turned out to be of higher "claimed" output, and then, craps out because it can't handle the duty cycle.

In general, alternator suppliers (all aftermarket, including the major distribution systems) CANNOT be trusted to deliver as claimed.

Bismic tried to organize a group buy a couple years back --- and when the stuff arrived --- they were bench tested --- and they failed to delivered claimed output.

My belief is most consumer grade alternators (even if it list as "fit" for your truck) will almost certainly fail shortly after the warranty expires in anything but the lowest load -- easiest working conditions.

PHX is one of the worse / toughest place in the country for alternators --- and not only do you need a "over spec" one, but one with tons of excess capacity --- and even then --- the heat may kill it.

If your current alternator is aftermarket, that is probably why it is weak.

The safest course is to buy an OEM NEW (not rebuilt) from a Ford dealer --- and if they have different grades or sizes, go for the highest.

I cannot speak for who to get an alternator from near you ---

It comes down to who you trust and who has a good reputation.

Mark had good luck --- see who he used.

For me, in similar demanding conditions, I went for a custom built alternator where I knew what parts went into it.

Hint --- the aftermarket alternators weighs about 8lbs or so.

The alternator I bought weigh at least 2 times as much.

The Mitsubishi alternator that ambulances use... weigh far more.


There is no necessary correlation of price with quality --- EXCEPT that there is probably no way a NEW (not rebuilt) quality, 120amp PLUS alternator with a reasonable duty cycle can be delivered to you for much less than $200.

Don't buy on price --- lots of dealers out there flog high price stuff that is no better than the $100 part.

If you know the high end car audio people, ask what they are installing in your area for high output audio systems.

That will give you a great clue as to what is needed to do the job.

Because you live in one of the worse areas in the country for heat related alternator and battery and electronics failures, I would not even THINK of buying online unless I am buying the ambulance grade stuff.

Why?

Because if the alternator I put in crapped out, the seller know I will be in their face, regardless of whether it failed within the warranty period or shortly after.

The local shops who know the issues and have great reputations know which alternator rebuilder / maker can be trusted.

When you have a highly specialized need --- that is the only way to go.

But, if you insist on buying online, here is one:

http://www.americanpowerinc.com/police.htm

For your app, it is overkill.

You need to find a 150A range alternator that is specifically designed to operate in Phoenix heat.

If it was my truck (with fairly heavy electrical loads) I would insist on an outboard rectifier.

If I were shopping in your area, I should be able to find one somewhere around $300 to $400.

 

The facts are as follows:

The listed as "fit" above will "work", but not for long.

You will be lucky if an aftermarket alternator will last through the warranty period.

What is claimed as output -- is rarely achieved under ideal conditions.

Furthermore, in the heat of Phoenix, alternator output (and life) sharply plummets.

No alternator sold except the commercial ones I get --- even talk about duty cycle.



Factually false.

In extreme conditions (Phoenix summers), alternator output is a fraction of the rated because of the heat.

The Ford OEM NEW one will probably be OK --- because it is much better than most alternators out there on the aftermarket.

What is the duty cycle rating?

Do you have the data on that for any of the aftermarket alternators?

Then we can talk about bench test data...

And the bench test when underhood temperature soars on a 110 F in the shade day in Phoenix.




To recommend a "change" of alternator from the current one he has (nothing wrong) to a different one that is not necessarily any better or worse is not what I would do.

It is like going from a Toyota to a Honda for heavy duty towing.

 

I have no useful information on online retailers that will handle a specialized need such as "high temperature, high duty cycle" alternators, short of commercial firms, defense contractors, and the like.

A DoD Milspec alternator, like one that goes on a demanding application like a desert Armor vehicle, will probably set you back more than $500.

I don't think you want to hear that, and if it is information you don't want to hear, great, don't read it.


I am known to have very little (zero) patience for people who;

- think all parts are the same, whether they come off eBay, Autozone, Amazon, etc.

There are cases of fake / counterfeit / sub-standard parts even from Ford dealers.

I routinely find Ford OEM parts that I ended upgrading --- but that is after a lot of work back engineering their specs and finding a truly superior part --- not a part that is in fact, substandard in a major aspect (e.g. substituting a lower temperature rated capacitor just because it has a higher voltage rating, as a big name performace firm did).

- believe electronic / electrical parts are all the same, and you can just go down to your local jobber and toss in their part and it will work.

- believe simple things like connectors, etc. don't matter, when in fact, they severely matter.

Above all, I take strong exception to parts change out artists who keep throwing parts at something until it is "fixed".

Or to fix non-existent problems.

Or, prescribe expensive fixes when in fact, there is no problem.


That said, IMHO, the cause of your FICM failure is most likely not the electrical / battery /charging system.

There is a fix that does not involve the battery / alternator.

But since you don't want to hear it. I wouldn't tell you.

 

My numbers match cmcowboy's too a tee except that depending on the charge demand I will get 12.9 to 14 going down the road. Normal accrding to tech. Usually in the 13 + range however.